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  #21  
Old 09-23-2019, 04:37 PM
GPV GPV is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: QLD, Australia
Posts: 47
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to have another go at it this weekend and will fiddle with the paint and mixture settings. I suspect my air pressure was too high as quite a few people have now suggested it is the first thing to check!

Thanks again,

Greg
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  #22  
Old 09-23-2019, 06:48 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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I shot some other parts using the 1.8 mm tip and got a smoother finish. My overall impression is that Ekopoxy is a good product, as long as you can put up with the mixing hassles and can spray it within the humidity and temperature limits.

Also, I really like the PPS cup system. Although an aftermarket system, and not cheap, it's worth getting.

Dave
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  #23  
Old 10-06-2019, 07:18 AM
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Jetmart Jetmart is offline
 
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Location: Windsor, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry DeCamp View Post
I was told that the value of epoxy primer was its Corrosion resistance, not toughness. Ie. Two part finish coats are just as scratch resistant as epoxy. Not suggesting this, but I used the white single component primer and urethane gray on the interior and it is really tough. The primer is like milk, no mixing, you can save what you don't use for intermittent spray sessions.
Larry what manufacturer of white single component primer and urethane grey did you use?
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  #24  
Old 10-06-2019, 07:50 AM
Larry DeCamp Larry DeCamp is offline
 
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Location: Clinton, Indiana
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Default Stewart single component white primer

The single component primer with Ekopoly grey 2k finish has been very scratch resistant.
However, as I have warned many times, you must completely cover the primer with 2K material . ALL exposed edges or wicking paths TO the primer for solvents or mogas WILL soften and blister the finish coat.
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  #25  
Old 03-25-2022, 05:14 AM
N82VM N82VM is offline
 
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Location: Warrenton, VA
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Been using Ekopoxy and have gotten it figured out now that Iím almost done. Iíve been ordering quarts due to shelf life and my usage rate.
A comment on colors:

Price and ease of seeing coverage results vary by color

Charcoal Gray: Slighty more $ than white. Looks good, easy to see coverage

Zinc Green: Most expensive (20% more $ than white) Best look, easiest to see coverage ( Best contrast against bare aluminum to see missed spots)

Smoke Gray: Slightly more than Charcoal Gray looks good, horrible to see coverage. Does not contrast well against the color of bare aluminum

White: Least expensive, Have not used yet. I would assume is better than Smoke Gray to see contrast against the bare aluminum

I would NOT recommend Smoke Gray. Pick any of the other 3
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  #26  
Old 03-25-2022, 09:26 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Just to recap my experience, I like EkoPoxy a lot. I ultimately used it for the interior paint, spraying one area at a time. I'd bought a Harbor Freight touch-up gun which is perfect for this. The gun cleans easily in the kitchen sink (yes, I live alone) with water. The paint, once dried thoroughly, is adequately tough - that is, it's very tough - and durable.

This shows the panel, painted with EkoPoxy, and the switch panel and if you look closely, at the white EkoPoxy I used for the sides of the foot area.



Dave
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  #27  
Old 05-12-2022, 07:24 PM
idubrov idubrov is online now
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPV View Post
Is anyone successfully using ekopoxy with mixing mate paint lids? I hear it's really thick so was wondering if this would cause issues when mixing and pouring (perhaps too thick to pour).
Okay, very late answer, but maybe it will be helpful to someone.

I used it with the mate paint lid -- works fine so far. It was extremely thick when I got it, I basically had to "screw" the lid into the primer:



But after couple of minutes of manual mixing and then few more minutes of mixing with the drill (remove the handle, attach the drill), it got to a nice flowing consistency.

I likely have a recent batch since I bought it recently, so YMMV.

I don't have anything to compare to as this was my first experience using a primer & a spray gun, but it mixed extremely well, too. Once I put all the components together, few stirs with the stick and it all mixed already! (I of course stirred it much longer than that).

So, I am happy about it so far (I chose it for non-toxicity, as I live in an apartment complex, but everything else is a nice bonus!).
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  #28  
Old 05-12-2022, 07:44 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPV View Post

Has anyone tried Ekopoxy over alodine? I spoke to Stewart Systems and they said it would work, but suggested I rough it up with a scotchbrite pad first. I've never alodined but from what I have read it seems scotchbrite would probably wear through it. Any thoughts?
One must appreciate the irony here. You want to use Stewart Systems because it is so environmentally friendly, yet you are contemplating prep with one of the most toxic and harmful substances on earth. Alodine is hexavalent chromium.

Please dispose of properly after use - i.e. it is HAZMAT
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  #29  
Old 07-09-2022, 08:51 PM
idubrov idubrov is online now
 
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idubrov View Post
I used it with the mate paint lid -- works fine so far.
Correction: it works fine, but only with quart lid. I tried the same on the gallon lid, and you need to go extremely slow at first or you risk breaking off the mixing blades.

I think, it is still possible to do with the gallon, but I gave up and just poured it into my quart can, where I can mix it with the drill.

Another thing I found is that it is not very resistant to the solvent, as it has been mentioned in this thread. Acetone and lacquer thinner would remove it if you rub enough, even the parts that have been primed a month ago.

Also, denatured alcohol would also remove it, but not as easily as acetone / lacquer thinner. If you rub the edge of the scratch, alcohol would lift the primer from the metal and gradually remove it. In the middle of the primed area, not so much.

I wonder if I am doing the process wrong or it is just the properties of this particular water-based primer?

I clean with EkoClean, then etch with EkoEtch (3 minutes & scrub with the maroon Scotch-Brite until the part is no longer shiny). Wash with the shower (I cannot use pressurized washer as I live in an apartment complex). It passes the water-break test. I use gloves to handle the parts.

Mix the primer by weight, then shoot. It has been a bit too hot here, though. I think, I get 80 to 90F in the garage sometimes.

It does resist scratching, it is relatively tough.
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  #30  
Old 07-09-2022, 10:01 PM
skelrad skelrad is offline
 
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Location: Redmond, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idubrov View Post
Another thing I found is that it is not very resistant to the solvent, as it has been mentioned in this thread. Acetone and lacquer thinner would remove it if you rub enough, even the parts that have been primed a month ago.
True, but not sure it really matters. I don’t plan on dousing my interior with solvents, let alone following that dousing with a bunch of aggressive rubbing. I guess human nature tends to push us to find the faults of things, but just because something isn’t perfect for all scenarios does not mean it’s not way more than adequate for a specific purpose.

(btw, I don’t use EkoPoxy, so no dog in this fight. I actually use the less durable EkoPrime, and have been very happy with it for general purpose priming)

Your prep process is fine. You’re just finding that not every primer likes solvents, even epoxy primers. You just have to decide if that matters for what you’re using it for. I would submit that it doesn’t, and you should happily move on knowing that it resists scratches. Scratches are the real problem child in building.
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Last edited by skelrad : 07-09-2022 at 10:08 PM.
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