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LuisR

Well Known Member
Hello everyone. So my boat sold!!! YAY! You know what they say.. The happiest moments of a boat owner is the day he buys it and the day he sells it. So so so TRUE!!

Now onto my next adventure. Building the RV-10! This has been a LONG time coming!!! I just have to start and stop thinking about it.

Any way....

I plan to buy the tools from Cleaveland Tools. This is their spreadsheet for the "Complete Airframe Tool Kit 2014" with some modifications to include upgrades to pneumatic squeezer, sioux rivet gun, 200 more silver clekos, DRDT-2, adjustable set holder, quick change tooling kit.

Are there any other additions I should consider?

Thanks.

1 3M Screw On Mandrel 3MM100
1 "3M 1/4"" Mandrel" 3MM140
5 3M Scotch Brite Red Hand Pad 3MP47
2 "3M Cut & Polish Wheel - 1"" 3MW7A1
1 "3M Cut & Polish Wheel - 2"" 3MW7A2S
1 "3M Cut & Polish Wheel - 6"" 3MW7A6
1 "3M Light Deburring Wheel - 6"" 3MW77S6
1 "1/4"" Sioux Drill 3600rpm" ADS16
1 Lightweight Airhose Kit ACKIT
1 Inline Air Flow Restrictor AFR1
0 Aircraft Structural Technician BB2
1 TUNGSTEN Bucking Bar BBT41
1 Back Rivet Plate BBRP48
1 Countersink Cutter - #6 Screw CC6
1 Countersink Cutter - #8 Screw CC8
1 Countersink Cutter - #10 Screw CC10
1 "Countersink Cutter - 1/8"" Rive" CC30
1 "Countersink Cutter - 3/32"" Riv" CC40
1 Compression Dimpling Tool DRDT-2
10 "1/2"" Cleko Clamp" CLC50
10 "1"" Cleko Clamp" CLC100
2 Cleko Pliers CLP20
28 "3/32"" Wedge-Loc Fastner 25/bag" CL332-25
8 "1/8"" Wedge-Loc Fastner 25/bag" CL18-25
1 "3/16"" Wedge-Loc Fastner" CL316-10
3 Threaded Micro Stop Countersin CT196
1 "3"" Hex Deburring Tool" DB04
1 "12"" Cobalt Drill #30" DBC1230
1 "12"" Cobalt Drill #40" DBC1240
1 "Cobalt Jobber Drill 1/4"" DBJ140
1 Cobalt Jobber Drill #10 DBJ10
1 Cobalt Jobber Drill #12 DBJ12
1 Cobalt Jobber Drill #19 DBJ19
1 Cobalt Jobber Drill #21 DBJ21
1 Cobalt Jobber Drill #28 DBJ28
2 #30 Jobber Drill (pk6) DBJ30P
2 #40 Jobber Drill (pk 6) DBJ40P
1 3pc. Aluminum Deburr Handle DBS33
1 Drill Stop #10 DBS10
1 Drill Stop #21 DBS21
1 Drill Stop #30 DBS30
1 Drill Stop #40 DBS40
1 "#3 Unibit 1/4""-3/4"" x 16ths" DBU3
1 "Dimple Die Set for 3/32"" Rivet" DIE4263
1 "3/32"" Close Quarters Die Set" DIE4263CQ
1 "Dimple Die Set for 1/8"" Rivet" DIE4264
1 Dimple Die Set for #6 Screw DIE5096
1 Dimple Die Set for #8 Screw DIE5098
0 Wooden Die Block DIEB45
1 "1/8"" Drive Pin Punch" DP180
1 "3/32"" Drive Pin Punch" DP332
1 Tapered Alignment Punch DP85
1 Edge Forming Tool EF60
1 Fluting Pliers FP200
1 Filing Kit FILEKITW
1 Offset Hand Seamer HS30
0 Sharpie Marker 3-Pack - Black MP30
1 3X Rivet Gun RG3X
1 One Piece Rivet Gauge RLG1
1 "24"" Stainless Ruler" RS24
1 Back Rivet Set RSB35
1 "1/8"" Cup Rivet Set 3.5"" RSC43
1 "1"" Mushroom Set" RSM10
1 "1/8"" Dbl Offset Cup Rivet Set" RSO48
1 #30 Straight Flute Reamer RSF30
1 #40 Straight Flute Reamer RSF40
0 Rivet Tape Dispenser RTD34
1 Adjustable Set Holder SNSHA-45
1 Irwin Rt. Offset Snip (Grn) SPG22
1 Irwin Lt. Offset Snip (Red) SPR20
1 Pneumatic Squeezer Body SNB-214
1 "Thin 1/8"" Universal Cup Set" SSC-4S
1 "#1 Flat Sqz. Set 1/8""x1/2"" SSF1
1 "1/8"" x 3/8"" Flat Set" SSF-2
1 "#8 Flat Sqz. Set 1/2""x3/8"" SSF8
1 Tight Fit Dimpling Fixture (3/ DIE4263DF
0 Swivel Head Pop Rivet Tool PRS37
1 "3"" Pneumatic Yoke" SNY30
1 Quick Change Tooling Kit QCKITW
1 Back Rivet Set 12 in RSB12
3 B10 Deburr Blade DBB10
1 "4"" Thin-Nose Pneu. Yoke" SNYT405
1 Quick Change Yoke Pins - Pair SQP20
1 "2.5"" Flange-Nose Pneu. Yoke" SNYF251
Click to expand...
 
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Tools

Congratulations.
Make sure the countersink cutters are single flute
Consider more silver clekos.
Good tool kit.
 
It looks like you have only one 6" Scotch-Brite wheel. Mike at Cleaveland suggested getting a second one for a medium/fine combination. One for each side of the buffer. I got both and I'm glad I did. I think the matching fine one is 3MW77S6.
 
I noticed you have deleted the light weight air hose kit. I like it so much that I ordered a second one.

We get hit pretty hard shipping to Canada, so I just bought the front end of the DRDT2 and welded up my own. Back riveting plate sourced locally too - no shipping and could get one as long as I needed.

I won' say much about the book other than I flipped through it a couple of times and was left scratching my head regarding deburring (same applies to the book that comes with the kit from Vans).

Hope this helps. The people on this forum were certainly quick to help me when I was "tooling up".

Oh, and Cleaveland Tools have been a pleasure to deal with!
 
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Changes

I would recommend the 3X rivet gun over the 2X. Also, I would add at least another package of #30 and #40 drills...six each isn't going to cut it, unless you like dull bits.

I would also look at a "no hole" yoke for the pneumatic squeezer.

I have found that Flexilla air hose is absolutely wonderful to work with...it is lightweight and VERY flexible at any temperature. Well worth the money. I also purchased a couple of air pressure regulators from HarborFreight tools. I put quick disconnects on both ends and switch the regulators to match the tools. So once I have "the perfect setting" for, say, the rivet gun, it never gets changed...I just use the same regulator.
 
GeraldC said:
It looks like you have only one 6" Scotch-Brite wheel. Mike at Cleaveland suggested getting a second one for a medium/fine combination. One for each side of the buffer. I got both and I'm glad I did. I think the matching fine one is 3MW77S6.
Click to expand...


Gerald,

Yes your right. I remember recently seeing a video from Cleaveland recommending the second finer wheel. I'll add it to the list for sure.

Luis
 
AlinNS said:
I noticed you have deleted the light weight air hose kit. I like it so much that I ordered a second one.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. It's back on the list.

AlinNS said:
We get hit pretty hard shipping to Canada, so I just bought the front end of the DRDT2 and welded up my own. Back riveting plate sourced locally too - no shipping and could get one as long as I needed.

I won' say much about the book other than I flipped through it a couple of times and was left scratching my head regarding deburring (same applies to the book that comes with the kit from Vans).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. ;)


AlinNS said:
Hope this helps. The people on this forum were certainly quick to help me when I was "tooling up".

Oh, and Cleaveland Tools have been a pleasure to deal with!
Click to expand...

Yup. There are great people in this world after all.
 
rocketman1988 said:
I would recommend the 3X rivet gun over the 2X.
Click to expand...

I have to think about this one.


rocketman1988 said:
Also, I would add at least another package of #30 and #40 drills...six each isn't going to cut it, unless you like dull bits.
Click to expand...

Yup. I've read that quite a few times. Added a pack of each. Thanks


rocketman1988 said:
I would also look at a "no hole" yoke for the pneumatic squeezer.
Click to expand...

I didn't find a "no hole" yoke on cleavelands site. Can you elaborate why this is needed please? Thanks

rocketman1988 said:
I have found that Flexilla air hose is absolutely wonderful to work with...it is lightweight and VERY flexible at any temperature. Well worth the money.
Click to expand...

Yup, added the lightweight hose kit. Thanks

rocketman1988 said:
I also purchased a couple of air pressure regulators from HarborFreight tools. I put quick disconnects on both ends and switch the regulators to match the tools. So once I have "the perfect setting" for, say, the rivet gun, it never gets changed...I just use the same regulator.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip.
 
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1. Get at least a 10" Vixen file and make sure it's got at least one side with a fine pitch.

2. My drill bits from Cleaveland were poorly ground and didn't center well. Replacements from Gen-Av-Hdwr were really good. I bought a bunch but then my RV-3B might need more than your RV-10.

3. A dozen of the 1" Cleco clamps, they're very handy. I've got the 3/4" and 1/2" ones, a dozen each (or more) and longer and more of them would be good. Then again, the RV-3 might need them more than your -10.

4. Ditto the suggestion to get a 3X rivet gun instead of the 2X. I really like Sioux tools but my 3X Sioux froze (yes, I use lubricant with it) and I replaced it with an ACAT tool from The Yard. Excellent alternative rivet gun, not expensive, same good trigger and the same excellent service.

5. I much prefer a Starrett C-305 rule to others. I've got a 6", a 12" and a 24" and hardly ever use the 12". I use the others every day. These rules have one side with fractional inches (1/32 and 1/64 graduations) and one side with decimal inces (1/10 and 1/100 graduations). Wonderful tools. Amazon sells these, any Starrett dealer will too.

6. Don't have the rivet tape dispenser and don't miss it. I use scissors to cut the stuff. Might want to get another roll of the tape, too.

7. I use these yokes all the time with my pneumatic squeezer: the 4" one and the longeron one. I plan to get a 4" no-hole yoke one of these days. The squeezer with the yoke is heavy; I bought a 1.5" yoke just so I wouldn't get so worn out, but don't use it; I adapted.

8. I've got a 2" precision square, Cleaveland's ASQ270 and use it daily. The Yard has several different sizes of this tool and one of these days I'll but one or two other other sizes.

9. A lot of people really like the 3M wheels for deburring. I don't use them except rarely. I deburr with files and it goes pretty easily.

10. A small screw gun with a hex bit like Cleaveland's DB04 (which is what I've got) is a good fast way to deburr holes, if it'll reach 'em. It will also make the small countersinks for the NAS1097AD3 Oops rivets, which Van's sells, and which make installing plate nuts so much easier.

11. For other holes, I use Cleaveland's DBS-33 deburring handle with the DB10 bit. Get several extra bits, they break off.

12. I don't use a flow-restrictor at the tool. I've got two regulators on my air compressor, one currently set to 30 psi and one to 90 psi. My hoses, from Home Depot, have different colors so that I don't get confused. The rivet gun likes 20 to 30 psi and the squeezer likes 90 psi as do the drills.

13. I've got 3 air drills: one which always has a #40 bit, one which always has a #30 bit, and one for everything else.

14. Two Matco tools are worth having:the S3 flange bending tool and if you need to make any holes bigger than about 2" diameter, such as lightening holes in ribs or something, an HC-1 adjustable hole cutter. It's safer than a fly-cutter.

15. A Dremel is a must-have. Skip the fancy sets of accessories. Get the cut-off wheels and the different diameters and grits of sanding drums.

16. Larger sanding drums are sometimes handy, checked into the drill press. My town has a great hardware store and they are available any time so I got them there.

17. Did you include a swivel-head set for the rivet gun? Worth having.

Whew!

Dave
 
Here's a link to the 'no-hole' yoke.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/4-Thin-Nose-Pneu-Yoke/productinfo/SNYT405/#.VVkJ72BQ23s

The longeron yoke has also come in very handy, though certainly not a must-have.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/25-Flange-Nose-Pneu-Yoke/productinfo/SNYF251/#.VVkKVGBQ23s

I didn't see the swivel mushroom rivet set in your list. If it came down to a choice between this or another yoke, I'd buy this. I've found it much more forgiving and easier to use.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Swivel-Mushroom-Set/productinfo/RSMS75/#.VVkKwGBQ23s

And I can probably say, without too much fear of being contradicted, there is no such thing as the perfect tool kit, and there will always be more tools to buy.

Shoot, I was so happy to pay for our wings because it meant we finally had more money invested in the plane than in new tools!:eek:

Just keep in mind, my opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it.:D
 
3X gun

I found that with the 2X gun, many more hits were required to set the rivet. With the 3X gun, just two BBBRRRTTTs and done...especially with -4 rivets...
 
Head spinning yet?

Very early in the plans for the 14 are instructions to use a reduced diameter female dimple die. Surprising to me, this was not in the kit so I ordered it afterwards. I would expect it to be the same with the 10? In fact, I hadn't even heard of such a creature until I came across it in the plans. Quite possibly its not even required...

Been meaning to call Mike at Cleaveland to let him know.

If I could give you some adice it would be to go ahead and order the tool kit, because I'd be willing to bet you an American beer that no matter how thorough you are, you will be ordering more tools again and again and... :D
 
David,

Thanks for the tips. Added the file kit, more debur bits.

David and Frightdawg,

As for the swivel flush set, Cleaveland Tools has a video advising against this tool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Kd7NvI4Tpow

Rocketman and David,

Still on the fence on the 3X. It does save 100 bucks to go with the 3X rather than Sioux.

How often is the 3X REALLY needed? What is the different between the 2X sioux and Taylor 3X aside from power?

AlinNS and Fridghtdawg,

I'm am looking for the "perfect toolkit" but it seems I should just get on with the building. Just trying to save the "waiting for this tool" times and save the shipping charges later.

Thanks for the tips all.
 
The 3X makes it easier to set long -4 rivets.

I've got both and the difference is clear.

(It's not that I'm a tool hog, but a friend loaned me a whole bunch of tools....)

Dave
 
LuisR said:
As for the swivel flush set, Cleaveland Tools has a video advising against this tool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Kd7NvI4Tpow
Click to expand...

Luis - I'm a huge fan of Cleaveland, but their dislike of the rubber guard sets baffles me. I've probably shot 90% with this mushroom swivel set with rubber guard:

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Swivel-Mushroom-Set/productinfo/RSMS75/#.VVlVNHD3arU

I agree with Mike's assessment of the pressure required with the rubber guard, but it can be modified to overcome this. It is essential to sand it down a bit - the edge is too tall initially - but once that is done, the set has been my go to set. I also have a 3x - I enjoy slower, fewer, harder hits. 3x and a tungsten bar and rivets literally melt in your hand.
 
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Ok...Took the advise.

Switched to the 3X

Added:
Longeron yoke
4" thin no hole yoke
More silver clekos (700 total)
Quick change yoke pins.


Is the tungsten bar enough or do I need another. Can the tungsten bar be used on the wings on the outside while using the 12" back rivet set or do I need to add the "back riveting bar" for the wings?
 
And there is always Cleaveland's main squeeze. For the times you don't want to use the pneumatic one.
 
LuisR said:
Is the tungsten bar enough or do I need another.
Click to expand...

I dont know about the backrivet bar but the tungsten bar is the one I use the most by far and I have several different bucking bars.

Also consider larry's advice..

The kit recommends a minimum of 325 3/32" cleco's.. I recommend more like 600.. and you'll still run out.
 
special bar

When I bought my bars (used) the special bar was included. I used it one time for the empennage, and yes, it was very useful...
 
Jason,

I have been following your build blog/videos closely but havnt seen the video regarding this section posted yet. Have you reached the below mentioned section where Cleaveland days this bar is needed. If so, how did it go without the "special bar"

Cleaveland description of the
Special Bar for RV-10 Empennage:

5.2 lb custom RV-10 bar.
Special Bucking Bar called for in the RV-10 Emp. manual Page 9-12 Figures 2 & 3.
Machined finish is straight and angles are exact.
Edge radii make gripping comfortable.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Luis,

I just did the special bucking bar section last week. It was actually pretty easy. I offset the edge of the elevator by 3-4 inches from the bench edge. Basically, I just eyeballed the distance from the bench edge where the bucking face of the bar would like flat against the spar. Press firmly down on the rivet gun and keep pressure on the end of the bucking bar hanging over the bench edge.

I pulsed the rivet gun ~5 times per rivet and that seemed to make a nice flat right-sized shop head. (Riveting solo, I found it easier to pulse rather than try to go in one shot.)

It was a lot easier than I expected it to be!
 
LuisR said:
Thanks for the heads up. What's the big deal about this bar though? Hard to reach area? Acward angle?
Click to expand...

Luis,

The special bar allows you to buck rivets deep inside the skins of the elevators. You will need it, so add it to your kit. 3x rivet gun, definitely. Also, I might add a pneumatic cleco runner for installing and removing all those clecos, but perhaps you should use the hand pliers for your tail kit, so you build up the "handshake of death" first. Then you'll really appreciate the runner. I still use my pliers too, by the way. I agree with Dave's comments on the rivet tape dispenser, just get a roll or two. For a pneumatic pop riveter, you can get a cheapy from Harbor Freight instead of spending 8x as much on an aviation tool site. That being said, you will still need the hand pop rivet puller too for the tight spots. Otherwise, it looks like you have a pretty complete list, which you will undoubtedly add to later.. :D Welcome to the madness.
 
ERushing said:
Hi Luis,

I just did the special bucking bar section last week. It was actually pretty easy. I offset the edge of the elevator by 3-4 inches from the bench edge. Basically, I just eyeballed the distance from the bench edge where the bucking face of the bar would like flat against the spar. Press firmly down on the rivet gun and keep pressure on the end of the bucking bar hanging over the bench edge.

I pulsed the rivet gun ~5 times per rivet and that seemed to make a nice flat right-sized shop head. (Riveting solo, I found it easier to pulse rather than try to go in one shot.)

It was a lot easier than I expected it to be!
Click to expand...



So did you use the special bar though?
 
LuisR said:
So did you use the special bar though?
Click to expand...

This pic should help. Is the bar essential? I'm sure it is not. I have seen posts where plenty of guys get creative with bucking bar extensions - taping to the end of a piece of wood, etc. Purchasing or making (the dimensions are in the plans to make the bar) it to Van's specs, however, makes the job pretty easy and the shop heads on auto-pilot.

DSC_2671.jpg
 
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Cordless drill & Dremel

When I moved my build from the basement to the garage (basically when I got to the fuse kit) I went from using pneumatic to electric & non-powered tools (eg the Main Squeeze) tools most of the time and only used air when I absolutely had to, like to shoot rivets. This carried over to the hangar. So I'd recommend getting a good cordless drill which doubles as a screwdriver and a Dremel with the quick change cutoff wheels plus the standard assortment of doo-dads.

I might have missed it, but a small band saw, bench grinder, and a bench mounted vise were invaluable to me during the build. A drill press was also beneficial but not critical. Finally a dozen or so spring clamps and a few ratcheting bar clamps (the kind that have a pistol grip and you can tighten with one hand) are good to have.
 
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LuisR said:
Jason,
... If so, how did it go without the "special bar"
Click to expand...

That video is coming up! (I actually have it loaded into premiere as I type and was working on it last night.. )

I opt'd to use the alternative blind rivets instead because I didnt want to make that bar.

Admittedly, I didn't think to look if someone was selling one.. At that price point you should go ahead and get the bar.
 
60av8tor said:
This pic should help. Is the bar essential? I'm sure it is not. I have seen posts where plenty of guys get creative with bucking bar extensions - taping to the end of a piece of wood, etc. Purchasing or making (the dimensions are in the plans to make the bar) it to Van's specs, however, makes the job pretty easy and the shop heads on auto-pilot.

DSC_2671.jpg
Click to expand...

Ahhhh I see now. The picture helps a lot. Thanks for posting that. I'll add the special bar. Seems like a good place to cut up your arms if you try to reach in there. It's a no brainer now to me. I'll get the bar.
 
Auburntsts said:
When I moved my build from the basement to the garage (basically when I got to the fuse kit) I went from using pneumatic to electric & non-powered tools (eg the Main Squeeze) tools most of the time and only used air when I absolutely had to, like to shoot rivets. This carried over to the hangar. So I'd recommend getting a good cordless drill which doubles as a screwdriver and a Dremel with the quick change cutoff wheels plus the standard assortment of doo-dads.

I might have missed it, but a small band saw, bench grinder, and a bench mounted vise were invaluable to me during the build. A drill press was also beneficial but not critical. Finally a dozen or so spring clamps and a few ratcheting bar clamps (the kind that have a pistol grip and you can tighten with one hand) are good to have.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

Yup, I have a bench grinder and belt sander. Need a band saw. How big a band saw do I need? And memory serves me right from years of reading on this forum, the band saw blade should be for wood right? I'll pick up the spiny clamps and the other clamps from Harbor Frieght.



Thanks for the tips.
 
Palamedes said:
That video is coming up! (I actually have it loaded into premiere as I type and was working on it last night.. )

I opt'd to use the alternative blind rivets instead because I didnt want to make that bar.

Admittedly, I didn't think to look if someone was selling one.. At that price point you should go ahead and get the bar.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response Jason. I'll definitely add that bar to the list. Hope to see that video SOON. ;)
 
A 9" one will do. Of course bigger is better. I think mine is a 9 1/2" Delta (59 1/2 " blade). I went with metal cutting blades. The reason being is I found the blade would wander making it difficult to get cut straight without using a fence (and yes the blade guides, guide assemblies, & blade tension were all properly adjusted). A dull blade will cause the same problem and cutting anything other then aluminum, especially steel, will dull the blade pretty quick. So I always kept a spare blade on-hand.
 
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bandsaw

The quality of the blade is really important, especially if you are cutting metal. Make sure that you are in the ballpark for blade speed for aluminum when cutting. There are many resources online for this. Also be aware that many woodworking bandsaws have too fast a blade speed for metal.

I actually took the harbor freight 4 speed wood bandsaw and modified it with a 10:1 reducer to get the blade speeds in the ballpark for cutting metals. Works great.
 
So I'm getting 1000 silver (3/32) clecos. How about copper (1/8), how many do I need for the entire build?
 
I don't think you need 1000 clecos you can easily get it done with 500 you just have to spread them out a bit sometimes. I don't recall how many I ordered but I have two metal coffee cans full and that was enough. Yes I ran thin at times but it didn't cause issues. 500 should do fine I don't think I'd get more than 600 as it would really be excess. Save your money.

I have a single can of copper cleco's. I'm guessing its 200. I definitely ran short at times but it worked out.

I use my Avery hand squeezer about as much as the pneumatic so I'd 5th getting one of those.

I used a cheapy pop rivet hand tool for the entire build. The only time I regretted it was the floor boards. So your arms hurt for a while :)

I have a 9" delta bandsaw (59 1/2") and I think some form of bandsaw is a must. The 9" has worked for the entire build but at times you have to get creative cutting at angles and double cuts to make it work. I did not slow it down and it has worked fine but I probably have gone through about a dozen blades. Stores don't keep much stock in that size for the metal cutting blades so every time I went to the store I bought them. Always keep a few extra on hand.

I would recommend a pneumatic right angle drill. There are some holes you need to drill that you cannot get anything with that large a head in place. They are quite spendy. Not sure I would spring for a new one. I have bought 2 different ones on ebay for under $100 each that have worked well. One drawback is the threaded bits. You will need at least 2 or 3 #30's and #40's and I'd get 1ea #19, #27, #12. I have a really small chuck that screws in to the right angle drill that has worked well. It came w/one of the used drills on ebay. It has been invaluable thus I haven't had to purchase many of the odd threaded bits.

I would double up on the 12" 30/40 bits and I would add a qty 1 #12 although the jobber length will probably work I found the 12" one handy at times. You use them more than you would think. I've dulled out two of them by the time I was done.

You will definitely need a #40 pop rivet dimple die set. I didn't buy a #30 set but I wish I would have for about a half dozen dimples. The #40 you use quite a bit.

You will need the longer 12" back rivet set at times so I'd order that one too.

Dang... going over this list makes me wonder how much I spent on tools :D. Have to build a 2nd one to cut the cost in half.
 
"Too many clecos are never enough." I'm up to 2000 silver, 700 copper, 20 black, and 12 side clamps. But you have enough to start with and could get by with that many without major heartache.

When I built my -6A I bought a dozen aluminum yardsticks at Home Depot. I haven't used them as much for the -10 but they are still handy for jigging custom parts. An example: I wanted to make up the AHRS mount under the passenger seat but the skins were in the way. However, without the skins, the seat ribs moved too much to accurately position the mount parts. So I measured the rib separation with the skins on, removed the skins and repeated with the seat pans in place to get the separation at the pan. Then I used four yardsticks crosswise clamped to the rib flanges to maintain the proper separation, two standing in for the bottom skin and two for the top. Now I had hand access into the space to fabricate the AHRS mount without the ribs moving around. I could have used scrap aluminum but the yardsticks are cheap and have measures built in. I have found lots of uses for them. Again, handy but not essential.
 
Ordered tools, AKZO, respirator, and eye protection. A partially complete empennage kit is behind me in the box truck heading to a new home for a new beginning. I see the rv grin!!!!

Stoked.

I ordered everything from Cleaveland Tool except the clecos and AKZO. Clecos were cheapest at Brown Tool saving me over $100. AKZO was cheapest at graco.

Next, I'll have to pay Lenny a visit soon.
 
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