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RV3 Fuel tank

navy06

Active Member
I bought my RV3 less engine in 2012. Put in a 0235 108hp and flown 450hrs. Started flying with 8 hrs tail wheel experience. I cruise at 160mph. Due to a right fuel tank leak am considering installing a RV3 factory fuselage tank. If anyone has one they would sell I would be interested in buying. I am at THA Tullahoma TN.
 
Tank

I'd strongly suggest you just fix the leak. The fuselage tank takes up a huge amount of room and makes for tight quarters behind the instrument panel making upgrades tricky.
 
RV3 fuse tank

if You install a fuse tank make sure you used flexible tubing to relieve the loads on the outlet boss.

Regards
Rob
RV3 G-BVDC
 
I am restoring a RV-3 with the fuselage tank but have some of the parts for wing tanks ( ribs and skins). I will keep it as is. Needing to get the right engine to replace the original O-320.

Stick with the wing tanks. Where do you have leaks?

Jon
 
I am restoring a RV-3 with the fuselage tank but have some of the parts for wing tanks ( ribs and skins). I will keep it as is. Needing to get the right engine to replace the original O-320.

Stick with the wing tanks. Where do you have leaks?

Jon

I thought it was only fuel sender which on my right tank is in back. Just tried to fix using proseal and no gasket on both the end inspection cover and back side fuel sender. Let cure for one week but still have a small leak so now unsure. If you get time could you send me a picture of how fuel lines from
Tank hook up? How are front and rear fuel outlets plumbed together then to electric pump. I have my plans but havent found that part yet.
Thanks
Jim
I can pm you my cell or email.
 
if You install a fuse tank make sure you used flexible tubing to relieve the loads on the outlet boss.

Regards
Rob
RV3 G-BVDC

Thanks. From the tank drawings there are a front and back outlet. Do they somehow tee together before going to electric fuel pump? I haven’t found the plumbing diagram yet but it must be in my plan set.
 
if You install a fuse tank make sure you used flexible tubing to relieve the loads on the outlet boss.

Regards
Rob
RV3 G-BVDC

I'd strongly suggest you just fix the leak. The fuselage tank takes up a huge amount of room and makes for tight quarters behind the instrument panel making upgrades tricky.
That’s a good point but I am so tired of leaks I am willing to live with that.
 
Trying to post photo of my RV3.
 

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Remove the tank

Best to remove the tank and put it under a few psi to find out where the leak is. If there is no slosh in the tank then all you need to repair is the area of the leak which will pretty easy and only 2-3 hrs of time. Make A hole in the rear of the baffle so you can repair the leak area with proseal which you can buy Chemseal for less than proseal and it’s the same stuff. Buy a 3.5 oz B2 (2 hr apply time). 2oz should be enough but for $3 more get the 3.5 oz. Buy closed end pop rivets to repair the hole in the baffle you cut. I cut a rectangular hole instead of circular because it was easier with dremel than buying a flycut wheel. If you cut a rectangle hole remember to drill the corners with a three-quarter inch step bit first then cut to the corner holes

Contact me for questions
 
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I looked inside tank when redoing the end inspection plate and the tank inside has a thick white coating. Is that a sloshing compound? I expected to see black proseal.
 
When I made my RV-3 fuselage tank I deviated a bit from the plans:

Put the vent in the fuel cap.

1/8" NPT hole top rear to sight gauge (plastic line) down to outlet hole. Didn't make hole for and install the mechanical fuel gauge/sender.

That simplified things slightly.

Thoughts on fixing your wing tank: Since the slosh has held up for 450 hours you probably won't need to clean it out, unless you change from AvGas to MoGas, although I might worry about disturbing it around the area where you'll fix the leak.

Unless you'd like the 25 gal extra fuel capacity for cross-county flights, I don't think I'd bother with making/installing a fuselage tank. Remove the wing tank, cover with soap water (or submerge) and pressurize LIGHTLY. Surely finding and fixing the leak will be a lot less work. Of course if removing the tank ruins your paint job, that's a different matter.

Finn
 
Anyone know if the early RV-3's have "Z brackets" between the wing tanks and spar? (Mine was built in the late 70's)
 
When I made my RV-3 fuselage tank I deviated a bit from the plans:

Put the vent in the fuel cap.

1/8" NPT hole top rear to sight gauge (plastic line) down to outlet hole. Didn't make hole for and install the mechanical fuel gauge/sender.

That simplified things slightly.

Thoughts on fixing your wing tank: Since the slosh has held up for 450 hours you probably won't need to clean it out, unless you change from AvGas to MoGas, although I might worry about disturbing it around the area where you'll fix the leak.

Unless you'd like the 25 gal extra fuel capacity for cross-county flights, I don't think I'd bother with making/installing a fuselage tank. Remove the wing tank, cover with soap water (or submerge) and pressurize LIGHTLY. Surely finding and fixing the leak will be a lot less work. Of course if removing the tank ruins your paint job, that's a different matter.

Finn
On the cap vent did you just drill a hole or drill & tap and screw in a forward facing fitting for a pressure vent?
 
On the cap vent did you just drill a hole or drill & tap and screw in a forward facing fitting for a pressure vent?

I just drilled a 1/4" hole and pressed a 1/4" alu line into it. Yes it was bent 90 degrees forward into the wind.

Finn
 
When I made my RV-3 fuselage tank I deviated a bit from the plans:

Put the vent in the fuel cap.

1/8" NPT hole top rear to sight gauge (plastic line) down to outlet hole. Didn't make hole for and install the mechanical fuel gauge/sender.

That simplified things slightly.

Thoughts on fixing your wing tank: Since the slosh has held up for 450 hours you probably won't need to clean it out, unless you change from AvGas to MoGas, although I might worry about disturbing it around the area where you'll fix the leak.

Unless you'd like the 25 gal extra fuel capacity for cross-county flights, I don't think I'd bother with making/installing a fuselage tank. Remove the wing tank, cover with soap water (or submerge) and pressurize LIGHTLY. Surely finding and fixing the leak will be a lot less work. Of course if removing the tank ruins your paint job, that's a different matter.

Finn
I like the idea of a sight gauge. I put sight gauges on my Piper Colt I had prior to getting the RV3. For the clear tube do you just use the hardware store tube like Lowe’s sells or is it something special?
Thanks
JM
 
I like the idea of a sight gauge. I put sight gauges on my Piper Colt I had prior to getting the RV3. For the clear tube do you just use the hardware store tube like Lowe’s sells or is it something special?
Thanks
JM

I actually don't remember. Some kind of fuel safe plastic line from Aircraft Spruce, I think. Some get hard after a while, some stay flexible.

90 degree nylon elbows through holes at top and bottom of the instrument panel, then curved to follow the tank to the bottom. You don't want the line to interfere with the stick.

Finn
 
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