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Trashed my canopy frame on the first bend ARRGGGHH!

IowaRV9Dreamer

IowaRV9Dreamer

Well Known Member
I was trying to get the profile of the square tubing to match the fuselage. The left side was perfect out of the box.. the aft end of the right side needed to come inboard about 1/4 inch. I was using the "jump on frame between blocks" method of precision construction. After a few jumps I moved it about 1/16", so I thought more jumps would move it the rest of the way.

I took 1 jump too far :mad:



I'm sure the canopy frame is trashed, after less than 1 day of work. The square tubing is cracked clean thru in the corners.

This will be expensive and time consuming. I was so happy to be back to the project again... now this will surely take the wind out of me.

Maybe it could be welded, but I don't know anyone who does that and then I'm sure it would need to be bent even more. I'd probably just trash it again when I got it back :mad::mad::mad:

I don't recommend the jump technique - even for a 175# builder.

Wondering why I'm building at all....
 
Weld It

I'd weld it, put a little grind on the weld and re-paint it. Bring it into alignment as part of the repair process.

Any welding shop should be able to fix this at little cost, but if you ask around you probably know someone that will fix it for free...

Bottom line: don't sweat it.

Good luck,
Mike
 
Just take a deep breath - then push forward

Dave,

Don't get too disgusted. I didn't crack my frame but my canopy isn't perfect by any means. I didn't get that technical on getting the frame to match seeing how everybodys frame will mount different depending on their fuselage. I just tried to get it to match up evenly on both sides and the aft frame to the fuse. The pin block on the right side had to be raised for my sides to match up fairly even. I will need to add some fill where the slider and the windshield matches up. I sure someone locally would be able to make a weld repair to the frame without you having to order another one. Just walk away for a few and then look for options.

You gone to far to turn back now - at least thats what I keep telling myself when I get discouraged when something doesn't go well on the build.
 
IowaRV9Dreamer said:
I'm sure the canopy frame is trashed, after less than 1 day of work. The square tubing is cracked clean thru in the corners.

Maybe it could be welded, but I don't know anyone who does that and then I'm sure it would need to be bent even more.
Click to expand...

Don't get to down on yourself. Check around and find an older or retired body man. One who spent his earlier years actually doing body work rather than Bondo work. After he is through with it you won't be able to tell it was ever damaged.
 
I broke mine, too, but at the upper weld of the rear bow. As there were other problems, I simply ordered a new frame. What I am saying is that if you want a new side piece to weld in front and back, I would be happy to saw off the side of my old frame and ship it out to you. As I recall, none of my frame sides needed to be shaped.
 
Transporter said:
I'd weld it, put a little grind on the weld and re-paint it. Bring it into alignment as part of the repair process.

Any welding shop should be able to fix this at little cost, but if you ask around you probably know someone that will fix it for free...

Bottom line: don't sweat it.

Good luck,
Mike
Click to expand...

I agree 100%. I can fix this sort of thing in 15 minutes. Weld then grind.

Once it is fixed. If you get the inside of the square tube red hot then let it cool, the inside surface will shrink and thus will force the tube to bend without any effort.
 
15 min with a torch and grinder and you will never know it was broken. If you were closer I would do it for you.
 
OK Bob - where are you located - I'll give you a 6-pack if you come fix it for me :D How about a case?

So if you were going to fix it, would you buy a long pice of 4130 square section, bend it to match the fuselage profile, and then replace the whole side of the canopy frame (less a couple inches at each end where the bows attach)?

Or would you just put in a short 4-6" section where it was damaged? If so, then the canopy will have to get bent to match the fuselage after welding... will that be harder?

Anyone know what the wall thickness is? I see Spruce sells several.

I'm assuming that I'll have to provide the new part to any local welder, and he won't have 4130 square stock laying about.
 
IowaRV9Dreamer said:
I'm assuming that I'll have to provide the new part to any local welder, and he won't have 4130 square stock laying about.
Click to expand...

I don't think you have to. Keep in mind that welding is by design adding material to the work. So I think that everybody is saying this:
a) clean up nicely the area
b) put a weld on top of the damaged line
c) grind it back to the same shape it had before
d) thermal expansion/contraction of this weld will also bend the thing for you a bit.

Nothing to replace, just one nice weld on top and a little grinder. Wish I was better at welding aluminum, N. Liberty is not that far :)
 
Tomasz said:
Nothing to replace, just one nice weld on top and a little grinder. Wish I was better at welding aluminum, N. Liberty is not that far :)
Click to expand...
I guess I hadn't thought of that - I know nothing about welding. When the frame kinked there is now a "bump" on the top and bottom of the tube, and a "tear" in the corners. Maybe a bunch of grinding and welding and it could be OK.

I think the frame is 4130 steel though, not aluminum.
 
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When You Get It Fixed

Too late for now, but when you get back to the canopy (and I'm sure you will after you cool down), try using some wood blocks and some BIG c-clamps to make your bends. I bought some Irwin clamps at Home Depot and used them for my bending. If I had it to do over I would quit when I got close instead of trying and tweaking until something breaks.
 
I'm sure the canopy frame is trashed, after less than 1 day of work. The square tubing is cracked clean thru in the corners.

This will be expensive and time consuming. I was so happy to be back to the project again... now this will surely take the wind out of me.

Maybe it could be welded, but I don't know anyone who does that and then I'm sure it would need to be bent even more. I'd probably just trash it again when I got it back :mad::mad::mad:

I don't recommend the jump technique - even for a 175# builder.

Wondering why I'm building at all....
Click to expand...

Dave, call me up at 319-533-4543 and I will help you weld it back together. When fitting up my first canopy frame, I cut it on purpose to allow the tubing to move and then welded it back together. This is not a big deal. I have the torch, grinder, and everything else needed to get you beyond this. Just 20 miles away too.

Steve Ciha
 
Tomasz said:
I don't think you have to. Keep in mind that welding is by design adding material to the work. So I think that everybody is saying this:
a) clean up nicely the area
b) put a weld on top of the damaged line
c) grind it back to the same shape it had before
d) thermal expansion/contraction of this weld will also bend the thing for you a bit.

Nothing to replace, just one nice weld on top and a little grinder. Wish I was better at welding aluminum, N. Liberty is not that far :)
Click to expand...

Actually that canopy frame is 4130 steel, thus really easy to weld.
 
Call Steve! Cutting the rear bows off, then bending them, and re-attaching them is possibly the best way to go. And if Steve has done this all before, he can save you many hours of labor and weeks of frustration.
 
Canopy Frame is repaired

Steve Chia, metal master extraordinaire, repaired my canopy frame this evening. We began by pounding the tube square, and used the grinder to clean off the powdercoat on the cracked area. Next Steve cleaned up the crack with a dremel cutoff wheel.

I had made a cardboard template of the countoured fuselage side - we transferred that to a sturdy piece of wood. We then clamped the canopy to the wood template (lined with a bit of aluminum). The clamps removed the excess bend in the frame and held it tight and at the correct profile while Steve closed up the crack with the oxy/acetylene torch and a bit of welding rod.

We let the frame cool, release the clamps, and voila - no spring back at all. The frame was now the correct shape and very sturdy. All that remained was a bit of grinding, then a very small amount of bondo for cosmetic reasons. After I prime it and paint it the repair will be invisible. This dark picture doesn't do the repair justice.



I put the frame back on the fuselage and it matches the countours perfectly.

Thanks to all who offered encouragement and/or technical support... but most of all:

THANKS STEVE!!!! :):):)
 
Wow, what a great ending to an almost gloomy story. Glad it all worked out well for you, good luck with the rest of your canopy. "George"

P.S. I'll be in your neck of the woods this coming weekend, well sort of, I will be exhibiting at the River Fest Art Fair in Iowa City, stop by my booth and say hi.
 
Great to hear everything turned out well, Dave. Steve definitely embodies the RV spirit... knowledgable and always ready to lend a hand. :cool:
 
Great Dave! But remember that the canopy will spread the frame apart. Mine was 1/2 inch at the rear and 5/8 at the front, Once you rough fit the canopy, you clamp it to the frame and you will see how much it spreads the frame, then you go back and do some more bending. Fun stuff.
John.
 
johnl said:
then you go back and do some more bending. Fun stuff.
John.
Click to expand...

John - what is the best bending technique for this? Since I want to keep the canopy frame rails level and parallel, can I just put one rail up against a block (screwed to a bench) and then move the other rail inwards, keeping it parallel to the first rail? Like with two big long screw clamps?
 
Dave-If you're talking about bending the curved bows, front or aft, I would recommend highly that you borrow or get at Home Depot an electrician's conduit bender. You might notice that this has been written up numerous times in the archives. I fought with my canopy for days when a few minutes of the conduit bender took care of all of my round tube issues. Good luck.
 
Dave, you want to bend the curved front and aft bows, bending the front will take care of some of the aft spread,you don't want to bend where the bows meet the top frame rail. You want to try to get any bending done before you drill any canopy screw holes. I used pipe clamps, c-clamps, jumping on it, whatever works for you. Take your time and it will turn out ok.
John.
 
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