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Trimming HS-710 / HS-814

aviationgeek84

Well Known Member
Hi All,

I am getting ready to trim my HS-710 and HS-714 pieces for my front spar on the horizontal stabilizer. Is there a "better" way to go about doing this to get consistent results on both other than the info Van's provides in the instructions and plans?

I did measure out the 3 3/8" called out in the plans (see photos) and note that 1/4" radius marked on the plans as well. I've attached the photos of what I'm looking at. Just looking for tips/tricks. :)

100_1632.jpg


100_1631.jpg


Thanks!
 
Just mark out the lines and get 'em close with a hacksaw or bandsaw. Finish with your Vixen file. Only push on the file. Pick the file up to come backwards or you'll dull it quickly. The radii are approximate and can be done with a file, belt sander, or with a diagonal cut with a saw finished with a file or sander.

Enjoy the journey! Build one part at a time and someday you'll have an airplane.

Guy
 
Watch the radius at the end. You are left with very little to work with and it is easy to compromise your edge distance.
 
I used a drafting circle template to lay out the radius, marked where the taper ends and then just connected the lines with a straight egde and a sharpie.

I cut the majority off with a band saw, straightened the cut with a belt sander, and finally ran it on the deburring wheel to both smooth and get it to the line. However you want to take off a majority of the material should be fine, just be sure to sneak up on the line.
 
Did the same thing as Shockwave. Draw it out, bandsaw for rough cuts, belt sander then finish it on the 3m wheel. If I had to do it again I would do the same thing, err wait I did do it again :(

*** not because of the radius cuts but I had a brain fart and mixed the top and bottom up when I drilled the out board holes.
 
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Did the same thing as Shockwave. Draw it out, bandsaw for rough cuts, belt sander then finish it on the 3m wheel. If I had to do it again I would do the same thing, err wait I did do it again :(

*** not because of the radius cuts but I had a brain fart and mixed the top and bottom up when I drilled the out board holes.

Funny you mention that, I had mine upside down when I was match drilling it. 1 primered hole, 1 silver hole I was drilling again. That's not right... My first but not only reordered part so far.
 
Not having access to a bandsaw, or much experience at the time, I did mine entirely with the scotchbrite wheel on a grinder. Building, as in Perl, TIMTOWTDI (There's more than one way to do it).
 
Done!

Did these tonight, guys. How do they look? I used my band saw and 3M wheel to finish them up. I think they came out OK - hopefully edge distance was maintained. I did not take much, if any off the ends - just smoothed/radiused the corners.

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Looks fine from what I can tell. Possibly a bit large yet, but I think trimming them is at most practice with metal and a little weight reduction. The tapered ears don't fit into anything so there's no harm in leaving them large that I know of. I did not take any off the ends either, and as I recall most of mine look like your bottom right.
 
Yeah... I think I didn't trim them right down to the minimums, but should be good. I test-fit them to the forward spar (HS-702) and it seems to work out nicely. I was overly cautious on the edge distance, maybe. :)
 
I should probably do a little more clean up work, too. I think one of the "ears" can be shaped a little better to be more consistent, then we're good to go. Thanks for the tips, everyone. :D
 
Not to discourage you in any way, but the ears are hidden inside the HS once it's assembled. The nose rib is notched to fit around them. :D
 
Woo! Everything on the forward spar is bent, now. Test-fit and looks good.

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Question: The bending went well. On the HS-814, I bent it a little too far at one point, so nudged it back to where it needs to be (6 degrees). Does anyone see a problem with this "nudge" strength-wise? The other piece (HS-810) went great - on the money on first shot.
 
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