Well, after 200 hrs on the 6A, I decided I was unhappy with my oil temps, which were running a bit high. At 75F OAT and 2500 RPM, I was seeing 210-212F on long trips (more than an hour). The max I had seen was 220F at 88F OAT. I really would like to keep the oil no more than 200F at high temperatures in cruise speed. If I can get up to altitude, say above 5000', OATs are normally low enough (65F) where oil temp is around 200F, so the problem is with high OATs, i.e. summer months here in VA. In the winter months, I stuggle to get up to 170F.
My engine is an ECi 360, which a number of persons have indicated seem to have higher oil temps. I've done everything to seal off any leaks in the baffling, and feel the system is pretty solid in that regard. I finally decided to try a different oil cooler (I have the standard Niagara 20002A. which is the van's EA II). I talked with Wayne, at Pacific Oil coolers, and he recommended their Aero Classics 8001602, which is their replacement for a Stewart Warner 8406R. It has the same dimensions and mounting as the Niagara, but it is more efficient as it has more than 50% additional cooling fin surface area. Looking at the two coolers, it's easy to see this.
So I swapped the coolers and took a test flight. With OAT at 90F (about 98F on the ground), I saw a maximum oil temp of 201F. I'm not confident of my results yet, because I only flew for 0.8 hrs and varying RPM. My issue was that oil pressure was cycling between 75 and 130 psi- very rapid changes. The period was probably 5-10 secs. you could see the numbers scrolling on my EMS (Vision 2000C), up and down but not step changes. Prior to the cooler swap, I typically cruise at around 65 psi. No other variables but changing coolers. I did have one anamoly when swapping. I disconnected the top line first, then put a vinyl tube on the fitting and figured I'd gently blow out the oil from the cooler, back into the sump, to lessen the mess when I disconnected the lower fitting. Found out that the oil didn't go back into the sump here when it started dripping out of the cowling onto the hanger floor, via the crankcase vent tube . I purged about 1/2 a quart this way.
On the way home, I purchased a mechancial pressure gage to tee in by the oil pressure sender. First thing to check is that the sender is indicating properly. Other things I suspect is possibly air in the system (two others came up with that conclusion) or sticky pressure relief valve. The air makes some sense, but its seems an awful big coincidence that the relief valve would fail just now.
Any ideas from the engine knowledgeable crowd to troubleshoot tomorrow? I had a similar instance on one previous occasion where the oil pressure was rapidly cycling. I shut down the engine and restarted it and it went away. I chalked it up to the EMS having a glitch and rebooting (powering down and up) corrected. I did this three times today with no luck. I appreciate any suggestions.
My engine is an ECi 360, which a number of persons have indicated seem to have higher oil temps. I've done everything to seal off any leaks in the baffling, and feel the system is pretty solid in that regard. I finally decided to try a different oil cooler (I have the standard Niagara 20002A. which is the van's EA II). I talked with Wayne, at Pacific Oil coolers, and he recommended their Aero Classics 8001602, which is their replacement for a Stewart Warner 8406R. It has the same dimensions and mounting as the Niagara, but it is more efficient as it has more than 50% additional cooling fin surface area. Looking at the two coolers, it's easy to see this.
So I swapped the coolers and took a test flight. With OAT at 90F (about 98F on the ground), I saw a maximum oil temp of 201F. I'm not confident of my results yet, because I only flew for 0.8 hrs and varying RPM. My issue was that oil pressure was cycling between 75 and 130 psi- very rapid changes. The period was probably 5-10 secs. you could see the numbers scrolling on my EMS (Vision 2000C), up and down but not step changes. Prior to the cooler swap, I typically cruise at around 65 psi. No other variables but changing coolers. I did have one anamoly when swapping. I disconnected the top line first, then put a vinyl tube on the fitting and figured I'd gently blow out the oil from the cooler, back into the sump, to lessen the mess when I disconnected the lower fitting. Found out that the oil didn't go back into the sump here when it started dripping out of the cowling onto the hanger floor, via the crankcase vent tube . I purged about 1/2 a quart this way.
On the way home, I purchased a mechancial pressure gage to tee in by the oil pressure sender. First thing to check is that the sender is indicating properly. Other things I suspect is possibly air in the system (two others came up with that conclusion) or sticky pressure relief valve. The air makes some sense, but its seems an awful big coincidence that the relief valve would fail just now.
Any ideas from the engine knowledgeable crowd to troubleshoot tomorrow? I had a similar instance on one previous occasion where the oil pressure was rapidly cycling. I shut down the engine and restarted it and it went away. I chalked it up to the EMS having a glitch and rebooting (powering down and up) corrected. I did this three times today with no luck. I appreciate any suggestions.