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Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer

G

GTechRV

Active Member
Looking at buying a pneumatic squeezer. The one I have in mind is this one (APT 720):
19g.JPG


Are there any tool gurus who have experience with this or similar models? Care to give your thoughts? What are the important things to look for in an air squeezer purchase?

-Ryan
 
That looks like the tandem (6000#) model which is too heavy, too expensive, and will likely spring that yoke in short order. You only need the smaller 3000# version for most of your riveting and make sure to get the adjustable set holder. spend the rest of the money on yokes.
 
I agree with Ron, and would add the quick change pins. Some might say the Q/C pins allow too much slop, but I haven't had any trouble with them...
 
N674P said:
I agree with Ron, and would add the quick change pins. Some might say the Q/C pins allow too much slop, but I haven't had any trouble with them...
Click to expand...

Pins for what - replacing the yoke? I'm in the process of stocking my tools for my own soon-to-be bundle of joy, so I'm trying to learn the tricks as well...
 
That looks like one that's on Ebay right now. Ron is right. You want a Chicago Pneumatic 214 or a clone. The one you are looking at looks like a different model. The Ebay seller says it's a 214, but you might want to question him about it. He sells a lot of stuff there & he may have just made a mistake. If you're buying on Ebay, be patient, the kind you want will show up. For reference, new they go for about $400+ without a yoke; yokes run about $100.

You might try The Yard for a used squeezer which may cost about as much as you would pay on Ebay and they will stand behind it.

Also as others said, get the Q/C pins and the adjustable set holder.

With the adjustable holder, when you have it adjusted correctly for a particular rivet, then screw it all the up, counting the turns. Then write that number on whatever you store those rivets in. From then on, when you use that size rivet, just back off the specified number of turns from the fully extended position and your rivets will come out fully set every time.
 
Pins

Yup. Quick change pins for the yokes. I don't have them and probably won't get them but that's what I said about the pneumatic squeeze before I got it. It really doesn't take that long to unscrew the nuts and pull the bolts out. I may be doing it wrong but I only snug the nuts to finger tight.

that squeeze in the photo is a Squeezilla! A real monster. like the others said - TOO much.

Keep in mind - once you start using the pneumatic squeeze you'll like it so much that you'll consider mortgaging your home to keep it working if repairs are ever needed.
 
Pneumatic squeezer problem

I have a nearly new, 3 months old pneumatic spueezer that does not fully squeeze the same for each rivet, one time I push the handle the rivet will fully squeeze, the next time it may only squeeze the rivet half way. It seems like the first 5 or so rivets work ok, then after that its a random thing. I have changed the air pressure to see if this is the problem but all I have found out is that higher pressure helps the problem but not all the time. Changing the yoke seems to have some effect but I can't figure out it out.
Any idea's ?

Thanks
 
Brucelas said:
I have a nearly new, 3 months old pneumatic spueezer that does not fully squeeze the same for each rivet, one time I push the handle the rivet will fully squeeze, the next time it may only squeeze the rivet half way. It seems like the first 5 or so rivets work ok, then after that its a random thing. I have changed the air pressure to see if this is the problem but all I have found out is that higher pressure helps the problem but not all the time. Changing the yoke seems to have some effect but I can't figure out it out.
Any idea's ?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You might check the saftey on the trigger where it engages the plunger. mine came out of adjustment and was slightly hanging up causing erratic rivits.
 
RScott said:
That looks like one that's on Ebay right now. Ron is right. You want a Chicago Pneumatic 214 or a clone. The one you are looking at looks like a different model. The Ebay seller says it's a 214, but you might want to question him about it. He sells a lot of stuff there & he may have just made a mistake. If you're buying on Ebay, be patient, the kind you want will show up. For reference, new they go for about $400+ without a yoke; yokes run about $100.

You might try The Yard for a used squeezer which may cost about as much as you would pay on Ebay and they will stand behind it.
Click to expand...

http://www.browntool.com/productselect.asp?ProductID=767



BAT-CS214-NY Squeezer Body Only (No Yoke) $420.95

BAT-CS214-25 Squeezer with 2-1/2? Yoke $479.95

BAT-CS214-30 Squeezer with 3? Yoke $489.95

BAT-CS214-25L Squeezer with 2-1/2? Longeron Yoke $499.95

BAT-CS214-40 Squeezer with 4? Heavy Duty Yoke $514.95

BAT-CRXBM C-Rex? Bench Mounting Bracket $29.95
 
Pnuematic Rivet Squeezer Question

I am in the market for a rivet squeezer. I am clear that a 214 style is preferred. What I am not clear on is the adjustable set holder. Is that an accessory item or are certain squeezers built with an adjustable set holder? I have looked at several tool sites and do not see any options for an adjustable set holder.

Thanks,
Eulice
 
ecurington said:
I am in the market for a rivet squeezer. I am clear that a 214 style is preferred. What I am not clear on is the adjustable set holder. Is that an accessory item or are certain squeezers built with an adjustable set holder? I have looked at several tool sites and do not see any options for an adjustable set holder.

Thanks,
Eulice
Click to expand...

As CaptRon stated, give Avery's call. Yes, you want the adjustable set holder. It will allow you to adjust the stroke for different length rivets and dies.
 
The ram moves a set distance with each stroke, but rivets need to be set to different lengths, depending on the size (length) of the rivet. Without the adjustable set holder, you adjust the squeeze length by using sets of different heights and putting washers under the rivet sets. This is a real nuisance and time waster. You could make it easier by being systematic and recording somewhere which rivet sets and the number and thicknesses of washers needed for each rivet. Or you could use the adjustable set holder and simply record the number of turns from full closure you need for each rivet size. I suspect most folks skip the last step & simply set it up each time by trial and error--you get pretty good at it after you use it awhile and it's pretty quick.

There are times when you are doing a lot of rivets and you have a rivet of a different size now & then. Without the adjustable set holder you really waste a lot of time switching sets back & forth.

Richard Scott
RV-9A Fuselage
 
Another Squeezer Question

Thanks for the info about the adjustable set holder. It was very informative. Let me ask another question. What size yoke's do you need. Seems to me the larger the better unless there are places that are difficult to access. My anticipated application is an RV-10, slow build.

Eulice
 
ecurington said:
Thanks for the info about the adjustable set holder. It was very informative. Let me ask another question. What size yoke's do you need. Seems to me the larger the better unless there are places that are difficult to access. My anticipated application is an RV-10, slow build.

Eulice
Click to expand...

I must admit that I generally keep a 4" yoke on my squeezer, as it will generally works for most applications (except where your working inside someplace, and it is just too huge). This weekend, however, Louise and I were working on a project and her hands tired very quickly because frankly, the thing is HEAVY! It never really bothered me that much, but it is a serious consideration if you're going to be doing a lot of riveting where you are cantilevering the thing off you hand.

I better understand the folks that complain about the weight of the squeezer now - but I still wouldn't want to build without one. Just thought I'd point out that bigger isn't always better for yokes.

Paul
 
ecurington said:
Thanks for the info about the adjustable set holder. It was very informative. Let me ask another question. What size yoke's do you need. Seems to me the larger the better unless there are places that are difficult to access. My anticipated application is an RV-10, slow build.

Eulice
Click to expand...

I bought four yokes: the 3" as a catch-all, the no-hole yoke for tight spaces, the longeron yoke for those rivets that sit behind wide flanges. You'll be able to squeeze 99% of the suqeezable rivets with that trio.

I also bought a 4 incher to do the the aileron brackets but those rivets are unsqueezable. The yoke actually reached all the way to the back of the rear spar but the problem was that the yokes (they're all the same width) are too wide to get a perpendicular shot at the rivets - the side or front of the yoke hit the side of the bracket first. Also, the 4" yoke is so massive (it's beefier to account for the extra length) that it really makes the (already heavy sqeezer) make its precence felt.

Paul alluded to this above.
 
I only have the 4" no-hole (thin nose) yoke and the longeron yoke for my squeezer, and the longeron yoke is on there about 95% of the time.

To be honest, I only squeeze when I can't buck (rudder horn brace, for instance), so for someone who squeezes a lot, they may prefer to also have the regular 3" yoke. The thing is heavy, and does get tiring after a while, plus it is awkward. I do have the adjustable set holder, and would probably never use the squeezer if I didn't have this part.
 
I have a longeron, 3" standard, and 4" no hole.

You can get by with just the longeron and 4" no hole, but the 4" no hole gets heavy. Somedays, I wish I had a 1" no hole, but I've been too cheap to purchase another yoke.
 
Yes, it's a nice to have, but not required. Buy a used one and sell after you're done building for very little (if any) loss.

Bevan
RV7A wiirng
 
I'm most of the way through my Emp and I'm seriously thinking about getting one...

I HATE setting 1/8" rivets with my main squeeze. I can never keep the heads perfectly square.
 
In a word, GET ONE. It will soon become the most valuable and cherished tool in your collection.
 
Hornet2008 said:
Planning my tools for a 9A and wonder if a pneumatic squeezer is a nice to have?

Pete
Click to expand...

I would call it a VERY nice to have.....:D

Yes, you can most definitely build an RV without one - many, many airplanes have been built that way. That said......you can have my pneumatic squeezer when you can pry it from my cold dead hands.....;)
 
I was looking into this but I could almost get 3 CP-214's for the cost of this. Its really neat looking, sounds like a great idea but I just don't have that much $$$$ to spend on a squeezer. Maybe if I had a DRDT and planned on pulling a LOT of rivets it would be worth it.

ROTARY7 said:
And if you want the latest light weight and versatile unit:

http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/products.asp?dept=117

I still own a CP 214 style squeezer. It is a good unit. But it is 2x the weight and size, and won't power other rivet powered heads, such as a blind rivet puller and DRDT head (20" C-Frame).
Click to expand...
 
I will end the pain of 'yes' , 'no', 'nice to have' kind of stuff you read on the forums.
It's a MUST have !

I had none as I thought -like many of us- to save the money for other things.

Long story short: I had an elbow infection that lasted for months because of forcing muscles using the avery hand squeezer on 1/8 rivets and dimpling. The doctors cost in total costed me MUCH MUCH more then the price of the pneumatic squeezer from avery (body only 440$ in special sale now).
On top of that, I could hardly get any work done in weeks

so 2 advices
- Throw that avery manual squeezer in the garbage bin, it sucks big time. The cleaveland tools one is much better.
- Get a pneumatic squeezer !

Jurgen Roeland
 
I bought mine from www.planetools.com. We I got mine they had the best deal. When I dropped it and managed to jam the trigger they fixed it and shipped it back to me no charge. If you buy more than one yoke it is an even better deal. I have a 3" and a longeron yoke. I've used both. The longeron yoke allows you to reach over a flange so in some spots it can be helpful. I still need a no-hole yoke but I decided just to buy it for my hand squeezer.
 
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