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Trailing edges: tape or sealant?

RickAllen

Member
I know this has been discussed quite a bit but... I started on the tail kit yesterday by reading chapters 1 thru 5 again. Chapter 5 tells how to do the trailing edges with the 3M tape. It even gives the part number for the tape. It mentions that the sealant method was used in the past. I went ahead and ordered the 3M tape that is called for. So today I get to chapter 7, Rudder. Chapter 7 says to use tank sealant on the trailing edge. It does not mention the tape method at all. Very contradictory. A 180 degree flip from chapter 5 to 7.

Is there any reason not to use the tape? I’m inclined to try the tape unless I’m missing something. What have others done and what was the result?
Thanks.
 
I believe the section 7 instructions for the RV-10 were written before Van's began recommending the 3M tape. I've read good things about both and I'm waiting for my 3M tape to arrive so I can rivet my rudder and elevator trailing edges.
 
Both

I've used both and it comes down to two simple choices. Both work perfectly well. If you have proseal and a few days to let it cure...use it. If you are short on time or don't have any extra proseal...use the tape.

The tape is quick but it is also a little harder to apply because once the tape touches the metal it sticks....period. If you aren't perfectly aligned when it touches you have to remove the wedge, clean up the surfaces and try again. Not hard to do but a little more time consuming. Once you get the hang of it its not that hard to do. Proseal gives you lots of time to fidget with the wedge and make sure everything is in place...but you have to wait for it to set up and that takes days.
 
I used both. If I were doing again I would use all tape. Recommend making sure tape is warm, I heated trailing edges with a hair dryer and then left it clecoed for 24 hrs to get to full strength per 3M's instructions.
 
Thanks for the reply’s. I’m gonna try the tape method. Still a way out from doing it. I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
This may sound harsh, but isn't intended that way. Proseal vs tape really doesn't matter. Both methods work.

This is the paralysis of analysis that kills progress. There are a thousand of these little choices that have been proven to work 2, 5, or eleventeen different ways. Pick a method and move forward. Don't agonize over the small things.
 
But Kyle..... If I don't use the right primer, tape, seal, my airplane will surely fall to dust.... ;)
 
Analysis Paralysis?

Kyle, true, at some point folks need to just pick a method and go, (do you prefer Coke or Pepsi?), but if we all just "did" something and never talked about it, what would be the point of the forum? Your response comes across as "stop asking and just do it", and my guess is you don't mean it that way.

Every time someone new comes across the same points those before them previously experienced, I think it's good to ask and answer.

Maybe tape vs sealant should have it's own "never ending debate" thread?

Personally, I do the tape; it's less messy, doesn't stink and takes less preparation. and clean up. Plus it has a longer shelf life.

pro's and con's to the many ways to get the job done; I enjoy reading about folks experiences.
 
Preference.

I tried both. Felt like I got much better results with Pro-Seal and would put up with the mess again.
 
I have used pro seal on the rudder previously and I had to let the rudder sit for a week before finishing up the rivets but I think it turned out fantastic. Thus I decided to stick with pro seal on the elevators today. It is very messy and went through 5 pairs of gloves. Maybe the tape would have been fine, i'll never know.
 
Kyle, true, at some point folks need to just pick a method and go, (do you prefer Coke or Pepsi?), but if we all just "did" something and never talked about it, what would be the point of the forum? Your response comes across as "stop asking and just do it", and my guess is you don't mean it that way.

Every time someone new comes across the same points those before them previously experienced, I think it's good to ask and answer.

I was trying to make a bigger point. Many of these answers can be found by searching. It appears that the original poster got far enough down that rabbit hole to realize that there are at least two methods, and probably to realize that there are disciples of both methods. Meaning both methods work reasonably well. Given there doesn't seem to be a consensus, it comes down to making a decision and moving forward.
 
Kyle,
You are correct,
I wanted to make a decision and move forward. I posted my question only because the build manual that came with my kit contradicted itself in a matter of several pages. I already planned on using the tape and ordered the specific 3M part number called out in chapter 5 of the build manual. When the rudder instructions made no mention of the tape I posted my question. I am not a Nervous Nelly nor am I trying to analysis this to death. I only posted a simple question for the reasons stated. Thank you for your thoughtful reply’s.
 
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I just did my rudder trailing edge this morning. I think it came out pretty good. I used tape and the Cleaveland / Avery trailing edge squeezer set and set the rivets in an alternating pattern.

It's tough to get pics of it, but this is after squeezing and doing no tweaking. There's a few wiggles, but it's pretty darn straight for the most part.
 

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Cleaveland +1

I used tape and the Cleaveland / Avery trailing edge squeezer set

We just wrapped up our RV-14 rudder TE. Same construction and extrusion, I believe. Used the 3M tape, primary squeeze with the flat sets, final squeeze with the tapered sets. Extremely happy with the finish and straightness.
 

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