Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Lead shot bags
- Thread starter Av8torTom
- Start date
mikehoover
Well Known Member
Sportings goods stores that carry hunting supplies should carry 25# bags of lead shot used for reloading shotgun shells. I broke mine up into smaller muslin bags of half size. With these bags sitting spaced out on a 2x2 length of wood you will be able to keep you flap flat against your table. Very important to have enough weight. I had a total of 75# of lead keeping my flaps flat while working with them.
Shot Bags
I bought 3 x 25 lb lead shot bags from a firearms supplier. This stuff is not cheap! I think they were about $50/bag. I tried to see if I could get some reclaimed shot, say from a skeet range but was unable to locate a source. They were very helpful on the flaps etc and I'm glad I got them, but still amazed at the cost.
I bought 3 x 25 lb lead shot bags from a firearms supplier. This stuff is not cheap! I think they were about $50/bag. I tried to see if I could get some reclaimed shot, say from a skeet range but was unable to locate a source. They were very helpful on the flaps etc and I'm glad I got them, but still amazed at the cost.
Dave_Boxall
Well Known Member
Call me cheap
I bought a 25 kg bag of sand and split it into a number of smaller plastic bags. I double bagged it & taped them up tight...
Dave
I bought a 25 kg bag of sand and split it into a number of smaller plastic bags. I double bagged it & taped them up tight...
Dave
Jeff A
Well Known Member
Aircraft Spruce
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/shotbags.php
Buy the bags from Aircraft Spruce and the shot from a local gun range. I use these on a regular basis as third hands in my day job.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/shotbags.php
Buy the bags from Aircraft Spruce and the shot from a local gun range. I use these on a regular basis as third hands in my day job.
Rick6a
Well Known Member
Shot bags work great for any number of tasks. I have used em as a "third hand" including
holding those fuel tank skins wide open while conducting dimpling operations:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=13700&highlight=shot+bags
I use em to quickly and efficiently lower the tail for nosewheel servicing:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=2105
Finally, any number of shot bags loaded aboard your RV serve as a straightforward and useful
tool for testing the CG limits during Phase 1 operations.
holding those fuel tank skins wide open while conducting dimpling operations:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=13700&highlight=shot+bags
I use em to quickly and efficiently lower the tail for nosewheel servicing:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=2105
Finally, any number of shot bags loaded aboard your RV serve as a straightforward and useful
tool for testing the CG limits during Phase 1 operations.
douglassmt
Well Known Member
Another use
Nice thing about the lead shot bags is, when you're done with them you can load them in some shotgun shells and go shoot some birds. Not so much the iron....
Nice thing about the lead shot bags is, when you're done with them you can load them in some shotgun shells and go shoot some birds. Not so much the iron....
rv7charlie
Well Known Member
Unfortunately for me, I totally missed that memo while I was building components.
One alternative trick I discovered that I found helpful while riveting larger assemblies like flaps, etc (even the wings when doing the last skins) was to put a 1-2" layer of soft foam like a mattress pad (or even 1/2" foam carpet pad) on the bench & lay the component on that. The foam is 'sticky' enough to keep the component from sliding around, & the thicker foam can allow clecos on the bottom side of the component without putting excessive side loads on the clecos. The benefit (at least for me with my riveting techniques) was that the foam kept the component from sliding around, yet allowed slight movement in line with the rivet gun. I tried clamping the work to the bench, but having it fixed to an immovable object seemed to increase the risk of damage from the gun, & it didn't seem to allow the component the slight movement needed for the bucking bar to do its job.
Charlie
One alternative trick I discovered that I found helpful while riveting larger assemblies like flaps, etc (even the wings when doing the last skins) was to put a 1-2" layer of soft foam like a mattress pad (or even 1/2" foam carpet pad) on the bench & lay the component on that. The foam is 'sticky' enough to keep the component from sliding around, & the thicker foam can allow clecos on the bottom side of the component without putting excessive side loads on the clecos. The benefit (at least for me with my riveting techniques) was that the foam kept the component from sliding around, yet allowed slight movement in line with the rivet gun. I tried clamping the work to the bench, but having it fixed to an immovable object seemed to increase the risk of damage from the gun, & it didn't seem to allow the component the slight movement needed for the bucking bar to do its job.
Charlie
brucespears
Member
Lead shot for ballast
I use two 25# bags of shot in the upper rear baggage shelf for ballast. I need 50# back there when flying solo to get proper weight and balance. When carrying passengers, I remove the shot and reconfigure for proper w&b.. I have an 8A with an IO360 that would be too nose heavy without. My airplane flies perfectly at about 82.5 inches CG.
I use two 25# bags of shot in the upper rear baggage shelf for ballast. I need 50# back there when flying solo to get proper weight and balance. When carrying passengers, I remove the shot and reconfigure for proper w&b.. I have an 8A with an IO360 that would be too nose heavy without. My airplane flies perfectly at about 82.5 inches CG.
