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Bucking Rivets in Top Skin in Gear Towers

tinman

Well Known Member
I have just riveted the forward top skin on with the exception of the rivets in the longeron that would be bucked from inside the gear towers on the -8. Are these rivets "buckable"? Did you have to build a bucking bar on a stick or something? I have seen Cherry Max rivets used, but would like to stick with the plans if it is possible...
Don
 
I also used pull rivets. I couldn't find a way to buck them. Squashed several before giving up.

Karl
 
I have already started training a chimp to hold the bucking bar for me...I guess it is not too late to switch to the Cherry Max plan...
Thanks to all for the comments.
Don
 
for me:

tower gears = cherry max

no other way (towers was plenty wired & plumbed)

look nice, hope longeron likes too ...

my 2 cents
 
Which rivets to use?

Don:

These rivets are "buckable" with a modified bucking bar and some practice at Chinese contortionism. I, however, decided to make life easier and used CherryMax 3214-4-4 rivets. Excellent results, and after paint, I can't even tell the difference between them and the solids. Good luck!

Are there any 3/32" pop-rivets that are suitable/available, or is it necessary to go up to the 1/8" Cherrymax? My problem isn't so much the bucking part....it's more that I already have wiring and components installed that won't allow easy access.
 
I used the Cherry mentioned also. It has to be drilled to 1/8, but the head is smaller and blends in with the 3/32 rivets in the same line. I was relieved to find this out, as I had already dimpled or countersunk to the 3/32 size before finding out I was having too much trouble bucking solid rivits in this area.
 
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