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Kit RV-4, 25 years old

gege

I'm New Here
Hello all,

I am new on the forum. I live in Switzerland and very interresting to build a plan... and why not a RV?

I have the opportunity to buy a old kit RV4, 25 years old. Only some parts of the ampenage was built. The kit seems to be complete.

Could you give me some advices before I make the decision.
- Despite good storage condistions, are there risks that the quality of the aluminium parts is degraded, deteriorated?
- Do you know, if there was emprovements during the last 25 years on the kits RV4?
- Are there security issues on these old kits?
- other advice...

Many thanks for your help!

PS: sorry for my poor english

Cheers
G?rard
 
Hi Gerard

I don't think the RV4 kits have been upgraded much over the last 25 years, I know you can get pre punched wing skins for them, that is about all. There are lots of people who have built 4's that are on this list and can help with questions.

The 3, and the 4 are the most labour intensive of the kits because they are not pre punched, but it makes them less costly.

I would check the aluminum well for any corrosion, but if they have been stored well they should be OK.

I managed to build my 4 before the internet was such a resource, I had never build anything before, so it is certainly doable.

Good luck.

Joe Hine

PS....don't worry about your english, you post was easily understandable.

Joe

I am new on the forum. I live in Switzerland and very interresting to build a plan... and why not a RV?

I have the opportunity to buy a old kit RV4, 25 years old. Only some parts of the ampenage was built. The kit seems to be complete.

Could you give me some advices before I make the decision.
- Despite good storage condistions, are there risks that the quality of the aluminium parts is degraded, deteriorated?
- Do you know, if there was emprovements during the last 25 years on the kits RV4?
- Are there security issues on these old kits?
- other advice...

Many thanks for your help!

PS: sorry for my poor english

Cheers
G?rard[/QUOTE]
 
Welcome to VAF Gerard!

Most RV-4s where built by first time builders, it's a great airplane.

In the past 25 years the RV-4 went to longer landing gear legs, this would require the new legs and engine mount, this is not a necessary change, whatever you prefer is fine.

The fire wall corner brackets may have been upgraded in the past 25 years also, You should do this upgrade, it's a nobrainer since the plane is not built yet and the cost is very little.

Also check Van's sight for SBs and address them as you build, they mostly don't cost a thing to comply with, just a few items done certain ways to avoid problems down the road.
 
Hi Gerald,
There have been some changes from the earlier kits. I built my RV-4 in 2001 from a 1989 kit. The main structural changes are in the firewall to longerons gussets. They were made larger and stronger. It is an easy change and the new ones are available from Van?s. The vertical stab attachment has been changed to make it easier to install. These changes can be seen in updated plans. I would suggest you get a new set. There is also a service bulletin for the fuel tank attachment.

I updated to the new longer gear legs which requires a new engine mount. The cowl on the new models is also updated to the ?constant speed? version with a shorter nose, 13 inch spinner and lighter epoxy honeycomb material. The newer pressure recovery wheel fairings are also much better along with the fiber glass gear leg fairing. I changed all of these on my 2001 build. Some data on the build can be seen at http://www.kbeene.com/rv4p1x5.html

Ken
 
Hi Gerald,
There have been some changes from the earlier kits. I built my RV-4 in 2001 from a 1989 kit. The main structural changes are in the firewall to longerons gussets. They were made larger and stronger. It is an easy change and the new ones are available from Van?s. The vertical stab attachment has been changed to make it easier to install. These changes can be seen in updated plans. I would suggest you get a new set. There is also a service bulletin for the fuel tank attachment.

I updated to the new longer gear legs which requires a new engine mount. The cowl on the new models is also updated to the ?constant speed? version with a shorter nose, 13 inch spinner and lighter epoxy honeycomb material. The newer pressure recovery wheel fairings are also much better along with the fiber glass gear leg fairing. I changed all of these on my 2001 build. Some data on the build can be seen at http://www.kbeene.com/rv4p1x5.html

Ken
Nice airplane!
 
Hi Gerald,
There have been some changes from the earlier kits. I built my RV-4 in 2001 from a 1989 kit. The main structural changes are in the firewall to longerons gussets. They were made larger and stronger. It is an easy change and the new ones are available from Van?s. The vertical stab attachment has been changed to make it easier to install. These changes can be seen in updated plans. I would suggest you get a new set. There is also a service bulletin for the fuel tank attachment.

I updated to the new longer gear legs which requires a new engine mount. The cowl on the new models is also updated to the ?constant speed? version with a shorter nose, 13 inch spinner and lighter epoxy honeycomb material. The newer pressure recovery wheel fairings are also much better along with the fiber glass gear leg fairing. I changed all of these on my 2001 build. Some data on the build can be seen at http://www.kbeene.com/rv4p1x5.html

Ken

I'm jealous!!!!
 
white protective plastic coating

If that has not been removed from the aluminum parts, check if it can be removed - if it cannot be pulled off, it is very very difficult to get off.
Bill Brooks
Ottawa Canada
RV-6A finishing
 
Gerard,

Check very carefully the non Alclad parts to ensure they have not corroded - in fact check everything carefully for corrosion. The main spar was either built at the factory ('Phlogiston' spar) or drilled at the factory and assembled by the builder. If it is a builder assembled spar ensure that no moisture has got to the spar and caused pitting corrosion - superficially it might look OK, but just about any corrosion means spar boom replacement. Its not difficult, just takes ages. Ensure the spar and the fuselage centre section frame are the same number. Other parts worth checking are the wing ribs and fuselage frames (anything that was hydro formed) and all the steel parts. Anything still wrapped in paper, or in a paper bag will be susceptible as the paper soaks up moisture. All parts remain available from the factory, just factor in the price of parts and shipping (expensive to CH) accordingly. If you have to build the spar get new 3/16" rivets - it will be much easier.

Have fun! Pete
 
Many thanks to everybody for your time and your welcome messages.

I will follow your advice carrefully! All your inputs are for me very valuable.

Have a nice day
G?rard
 
Bonjour G?rard

I'm building together with a friend an RV-4 that we bought from a previous builder. He started to build the RV-4 24 years ago. So, we have a very similar situation.

We ordered a new set of plans from Vans. You need to indicate the SN of your plans. There have been some changes since then on the plans. We followed the new configuration, wherever the parts had not been built. If the parts were already built and there was no compulsory need for the new configuration, we stayed with the old one. You will find the safety related changes in the service bulletins of Vans, see therefore: http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/service-rv4.htm

Additionally, you have to be aware that the OFAC (Swiss FAA) does require some additional changes to the original design. Most of them beeing local reinforcements.

The most important points have already been mentioned. Regarding corrosion, some filiform corrosion can form on aluminum sheet under the protective plastic foil (even if ACLAD).

You will find some pictures of our project on: http://www.flickr.com/photos/48566804@N00/sets/72157625682026439/

You can also email me: [email protected]

Meilleure salutations de la r?gion zurichois,
Andreas
 
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