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Dynon D10A & Autopilot

curtis

Well Known Member
I was wondering if anyone was controlling their autopilot with just the Dynon D10A? I looking at getting a D10A and the Dynon autopilot, however I'm not sure about if I need the AP-74 control head for the autopilot. I spoke with Robert at Dynon and he said unless I'm flying IFR I probably didn't need the AP-74.
 
While the AP74 is a great addition, it is not required. With it you have dedicated knob and buttons and preselect. Without it you must use the menus and buttons on the screen and you don't get preselect.
 
Curtis,

Brian is spot on...as usual! You could easily go without it, but I've found it to be a great piece of gear...worth every penny, and more.

My RV is VFR, but I do a fair amount of X-C. The AP-74 is a great button-smashing saver in both local and X-C ops because the value knob is configurable for multiple tasks.

On mine:
turn the knob without pushing it...move the heading (or track) bug
push once then turn, adjust the altitude bug
push twice then turn, set the altimeter

You also get the AP on/off and mode buttons all right there.

To be fair, getting to the AP menu on the 10A isn't that bad, but the AP-74 gives you really quick and easy access. 'Course, I'm a bit lazy! ;)

Not trying to sell ya, just wouldn't want you to be sorry ya missed it. Might fit under your XPNDR (horizontal install) or to the left of your steam (vertical install).

Either way, you'll like the AP! Have fun!

Cheers,
Bob
 
When I was testing the Autopilot for Dynon, I installed the servos first and flew it that way for about 10 hours.

Then I installed the AP74 and wouldn't go without it.

While you can most certainly operate the AP without one, it really advances the D10A/D100!

Besides, it adds voice, which is very cool. Things like "Stall, Stall, Stall". I only wish it had a "Trailer, trailer, trailer" function!
 
Not required

I just recently installed the Dynon roll and pitch servos in my -9a a few months ago, hooked up directly to my D10A.

I fly 100% VFR. The three key functions for me are altitude hold, maintain heading, and GPS/VOR nav mode. All of these are available with just a few button presses from the top level menu. Very easy and straightforward.

I was tempted to get the AP74 module as well, but decided it was not worth the extra cost for the few benefits (to me - as noted, IFR flyers may have a different view). Also, I have to retrofit into a flying airframe, which always makes panel changes and wiring runs 100 times more difficult. If I was still planning my panel, I might be more inclined to buy the AP74.
 
AP-74 is totally unnecessary for IMC and while it does provide easier interface and voice the D10A alone works just fine in any conditions. Flew several hundred hours IMC in this configuration. Nothing you do 99.999% of the time while IFR under IMC requires quick action on the auto-pilot. If you need to maneuver quickly for some reason do it by hand. The difference is really knob twisting vice button pushing. Tested the entire system from the very beginning with/without the AP74 in my BD-4. The system is great either way. Why not start out with just the D10A and decide later if you think it works easily enough for you?

.02
 
When I was testing the Autopilot for Dynon, I installed the servos first and flew it that way for about 10 hours.

Then I installed the AP74 and wouldn't go without it.

While you can most certainly operate the AP without one, it really advances the D10A/D100!

Besides, it adds voice, which is very cool. Things like "Stall, Stall, Stall". I only wish it had a "Trailer, trailer, trailer" function!

You would need a -A for that.............:D
 
AP-74 is totally unnecessary for IMC and while it does provide easier interface and voice the D10A alone works just fine in any conditions. Flew several hundred hours IMC in this configuration. Nothing you do 99.999% of the time while IFR under IMC requires quick action on the auto-pilot. If you need to maneuver quickly for some reason do it by hand. The difference is really knob twisting vice button pushing. Tested the entire system from the very beginning with/without the AP74 in my BD-4. The system is great either way. Why not start out with just the D10A and decide later if you think it works easily enough for you?

.02

Yeah but Ken, you're a helo bubba...you're good at doing a gazillion things at once. I'm a lazy fighter/airline guy...just want to spin knobs and sip my java! :D

Just playin', and its good to have all perspectives...good AP, either way!

You would need a -A for that.............:D

Yikes...I ducked when I saw that coming! :p

Cheers,
Bob
 
I appreciate everyone's input on this question. I'm planning on placing my order this week and at this time I'm going to pass on the AP-74.
 
Save room in your panel, you will want to add it later. Its a nice addition to the auto pilot. (just my 2 cents).
 
I'm looking into adding an autopilot to our 6.. We've been looking at adding a Dynon EFIS to the bird. After adding the EFIS, is adding an autopilot to one of these units as simple as picking up some servos?
 
(quote) "After adding the EFIS, is adding an autopilot to one of these units as simple as picking up some servos?"

Yes. Just mount,connect wires,and program.
You may want a disconnect switch/breaker on the stick or pannel.
 
EFIS D-10A & Autopilot Servos

Dynon servos on their way, should arrive by Monday, planning to use just the D10A as the autopilot control. Also planning a separate autopilot on/off switch to depower the servos and have a disconnect/reconnect function button on the stick. Will post results when done.

Reggie
 
Hmm... Out of curiosity, could you post up the servos you've ordered, ie. part numbers? I'm curious what it would cost to do this to mine now... :p
 
Servo

Rob,dynon sv32 servo, $750. Each. Spruce sells them with an install kit
For $795. Install kit works well.RV9A Bill
 
ACS is cheaper. I talk to Dynon to see if the price was lower due to being older verisions, but Robert (Dynon) told me ACS has a good turnover rate and that they just elect to sell at a lower profit margin. I got my D-100 and both servos (with mounting kits) from ACS. NOTE: I did change from my original post and elected to go with the D-100. It involved redoing the L/H side of the panel, but very much worth the effort. I moved the switches down to a small channel and then made a new panel out of .063" material. I would not of had to move my switches down except for there would of been no room for the old steam gauges. The steam gauges have come in handy already when I had to remove my display for repairs.

IMG_5044.jpg
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The wires hanging down below the panel are for the data update connector which I had not mounted yet.
 
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Dynon AP Installed

Dynon roll servo installed and ops tested on a 1500 mile R/T flight ... worked great right out of the box. But I'm going to do some tweaking, it was slow to correct heading changes using the heading bug mode (two s turns before it would settle on the heading), looks like I need to up the sensitivity a bit, I also changed the turn rate from the standard 1.5 degrees per second to 3 degrees per second. The default 1.5 dps seemed too slow for heading changes. But overall, it worked fine and with some tweaking, I think it will work perfect. I did not get the pitch servo installed yet, that will be the next project.

Reggie
 
Dynon roll servo installed and ops tested on a 1500 mile R/T flight ... worked great right out of the box. But I'm going to do some tweaking, it was slow to correct heading changes using the heading bug mode (two s turns before it would settle on the heading), looks like I need to up the sensitivity a bit, I also changed the turn rate from the standard 1.5 degrees per second to 3 degrees per second. The default 1.5 dps seemed too slow for heading changes. But overall, it worked fine and with some tweaking, I think it will work perfect. I did not get the pitch servo installed yet, that will be the next project.

Reggie

You might try using bank angle mode as well, which many people find does a better job flying their airplane. It's also a bit more "positive" in making corrections. Assuming this is a D100 series (non-SkyView) setup, turn the turn rate down to zero, and then set the bank angle limit to the max you ever want to see (we suggest 20-25 degrees as a starting point).
 
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