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Old 10-15-2021, 07:56 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 6,539

Originally Posted by tom_AZ View Post
Here's what I use in my -10; I've seen a couple of -14s, but haven't paid enough attention to the cockpit design to know if it will work in that model.

The PVC portion is a minimal modification from what I received from the original builder when I purchased the A/C--thanks John and Teresa. I slip the short PVC segments over the bottoms of the starboard rudder pedals. The "arm" length was trimmed and the angle adjusted to allow a tight fit with a slight "over center"--when the crutch tip is jammed into the junction of the floor and bulkhead beneath the seat, e.g. the arm slopes up slightly in the direction of the rudder pedals. Note that the arm is offset from center so that the stick itself doesn't interfere with placement. The combination of pressure and rubber crutch tip minimizes slippage risk. I can install or remove while sitting in the cockpit. That locks the rudder, and if I'm just refueling, going to breakfast on a calm morning, or similar, that's all I do besides tiedowns.

If it's windy, or if I'm going to be away from the A/C for any significant period of time, I also secure the elevator and ailerons. Basically, one nylon strap passes through the outboard port-side seatbelt (Hooker) buckle, wraps x 2 around the starboard stick and back. That is repeated for the second strap on the opposite sides, creating an "X" pattern. The styrofoam cylinder (as used for physical therapy, and readily available from Amazon, as are the straps) is placed between the starboard stick and front of the seat before the straps are drawn tight. That leaves the elevator in a very slightly up orientation (it could be changed to slightly down by using a cylinder with a larger diameter). I've left the A/C for multiple days at KWJF (Lancaster, CA) on several occasions. Typical winds are in the 25 knot range there, with higher gusts--no issues.

No risk of departing with the locks installed. You couldn't get in and buckle up with the ailerons/elevator secured, and it would be difficult to taxi without noticing that the rudder pedals can't be moved.
I would test these if I were you. I made something similar for the 6 and has worked very well for years. I made something similar for the 10 and it popped out during a heavy wind event in Iowa. I ended up making one out of steel. The 10 just had a lot bigger rudder, creating more force on the pedals, and the PVC had to be longer, allowing more flex.

N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
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