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Slick Mag SB3-03 & SB2-08A

Geico266

Well Known Member
This may be old news to some, but it was news to me. (Thanks Bob C. ;))

Looks like there is a service bulletin on Slick Mags that was revised 7/1/2008.

I don't know how to post an Adobe formatted document so if you have Slicks you should go to the web site and look it up.

Not even the almighty Slick is immune from problems. :rolleyes:
 
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This may be old news to some, but it was news to me. (Thanks Bob C. ;))

Looks like there is a service bulletin on Slick Mags that was revised 7/1/2008.

I don't know how to post an Adobe formatted document so if you have Slicks you should go to the web site and look it up.

Not even the almighty Slick is immune from problems. :rolleyes:

Direct links to the SB's are in Gary Sobek's message from last month:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=31100&highlight=slick
 
Thanks Sam, I knew the VAF crew was on top of it. I must have been sleeping......or flying!
 
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Wow, the "almighty slick". Short memory, anyone remember how crappy the original slicks were?
 
I happened to see a comment on the Matronics list that since "we are experimentals, these AD's/Service bulletins don't affect us." In sincerely hope we don't really have that attitude in the RV community. This has been a controversial subject over the years, but it really boils down to this: it would be really hard to defend that you were flying an airworthy airplane if known AD's and Service bulletins were not complied with in the time specified. In the end, the insurance companies and lawyers will fight it out, but I can't imagine living with the grief that could come if someone got hurt or killed in an airplane that I was flying because I decided not to comply with an AD/SB under this premise.
In our original applications for airworthiness, there is a box that we check that says we have looked at the most recent bi-weekly AD list on FAA.gov. As a DAR, I require that all AD's and manufacturer SB's are complied with at the time of licensing. It's really the only way the builder can make the entry certifying that the aircraft is in an airworthy condition.

Vic
 
Vic,

While I agree with the premise of your post, it seems to me some SB's / AD's are overkill. I would like to hear from anyone that has complied with the inspection portion of this SB and found a problem, or the beginning of a problem. Specifically, if the problem is being found on several mags I'd just replace the whole mag and skip the 10-15-25 hour inspection. Seems to be a lot less hastle for the $$$.
 
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Larry, I agree with you that some might seem like overkill to you or I. Unfortunately, you and I don't get to make that decision. We live in a very litiguous society, and some may be CYA by the manufacturers for that very reason. Non compliance would put you in a very indefensible position if something were to happen directly attributable to the affected part.
I think you are the one with the "be careful out there" signature. This probably falls clearly into that bucket.

Vic
 
I have seen the brushes worn as depicted in the bulletin. The new replacement brush or mag has the same inspection requirement. So replacing the mag or brush doesn't get away from doing the repetitive portion of the bulletin.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
 
I have not even started my new Aerosport 360 yet !

Anyways, called Aerosprt and they said that there are NO parts available at this time from Slick, so if you have abnormal wear, all we can do is send ya another "defective" mag until Slick gets this fixed.

Not there product or doing, but there customer service and awnsers to questions was excellent.
 
Replacement carbon brushes available in August

I have 2 Slick mags on my O320 Lycoming and they both fall into the inspection category since I have 81 hours on the mags and new engine.
I called Unison (Slick mag manufacturer) in Jax Fl yesterday and they said that they were testing new carbon brushes that didn't require periodic inspections now and things were "going well". They had intended to have new brushes ready for Oshkosh but didn't make it.

They think they will have them in late August '08. I think that I will wait until then to install new brushes. In the mean time, I am doing as the FAA suggested and doing a good mag check.
 
I inspected the one slick mag (266 hours on it) last week and it failed the inspection - all three items in SB3-08. I also had a local A&P mechanic verify what I saw, and he showed me a mag with 500 hours on it that looked brand new compared with mine. Aerosport Power sent out a new mag, although it has the same issues as the one it replaces as no "upgraded" parts are available yet.

Note that during those 266 hours the P-Mag had no issues (although several issues in the previous 130 hours).

Sample size n=1.
 
I recently flew my RV10 from TX up and through Alaska and at about 175 hours on the engine and in Anchorage I had my left slick mag completely fail. I have elctronic ignition installed.

On removing the cam from the mag the point lifter was completely worn off. So based on my recent experience with this I would strongly suggest that you take this SB to heart.

Wayne Edgerton RV10 N602WT
 
I recently flew my RV10 from TX up and through Alaska and at about 175 hours on the engine and in Anchorage I had my left slick mag completely fail. I have elctronic ignition installed.

On removing the cam from the mag the point lifter was completely worn off. So based on my recent experience with this I would strongly suggest that you take this SB to heart.

Wayne Edgerton RV10 N602WT

According to the AD, for my serial # I need to inspect only after 250 hours. What was your serial # on your failed mag?
 
I received the attached from the "Slick Mag" folks this am. Hopefully we will be able to have a permanent fix to this issue.

Dave,

We have determined a fix and have been testing it extensively. We expect to be introducing the changes in early September which will allow termination of the SB's. Your distributor will be aware of it as it occurs. Thanks

Cheers,

db
 
I have a new Lycoming XIO540 being dispatched this next week.

Anyone know whether Lycoming use them on the XIO540 as standard?

DB:cool:
 
This may be of interest if you have not complied with the Slick brush SB.

Copied from the Yahoo Canard-Aviators forum which copied it from the Lycoming forum:Re: [lycoming] Slick Mag SB3-08A
"I just opened up two mags, a 6350 and a 6351, both had 460 hours on them since new. I'm surprised the engine ran at all. Both distributor blocks were melted, the coil tabs were severely pitted from arcing. Pretty ugly stuff. Mag checks seemed fine. Outside the mags looked flawless. One telltale sign that something is awry is dust in the vent holes".

I recently had the new improved replacement brush (PN K3215) installed in my single mag (TT 130 hrs). The engine shop said the brush was showing signs of wear. Everything else was OK. :)

Fin
9A
 
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Anyone know the (average) cost of inspection/replace needed parts in Slick Mags?
Or: cost compairsion between inspecting/repairing vs. buying new and just remove & replace?
Are the new Slicks from the factory void of the SB now?
Also, has anyone done their own inspection & repairs? Or is this something left to the 'professional'??:confused:
I'm at the 500 hour mark on mine and am wondering what to do...
Sheldon
 
The inspection is pretty easy to do if you are mechanically inclined Sheldon - if you are comfortable removing, replacing and timing mags, then opening them up is not very complicated. You can find the manual on line if I recall, and it pays to buy the cheap little tools from ACS, then just do it. (I have not had to buy parts - mine looked great at 500 hours, so can't advise you on that part.)

Paul
 
Also, has anyone done their own inspection & repairs? Or is this something left to the 'professional'??:confused:
I'm at the 500 hour mark on mine and am wondering what to do...
Sheldon

The mags are fairly simple devices and replacing the brush is straightforward but you do need to know exactly what you are doing to get the internal mag timing correct when you reassemble the mag. Also you need to know how to position the crankshaft and mag gear when the mag is inserted back into the accessory case. As Paul said the information is online and it helps to have the correct tools.
In my case I took the mag off myself then took it to an engine shop where they inspected the mag, checked and adjusted the points and changed the brush, all in about 20 minutes. I then reinstalled the mag after reading the online information and being given instructions from the friendly man at the engine shop.

Edit: Only the brush SB was applicable for my mag.

Fin
9A
 
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Anyone know the (average) cost of inspection/replace needed parts in Slick Mags?
Or: cost compairsion between inspecting/repairing vs. buying new and just remove & replace?
Are the new Slicks from the factory void of the SB now?
Also, has anyone done their own inspection & repairs? Or is this something left to the 'professional'??:confused:
I'm at the 500 hour mark on mine and am wondering what to do...
Sheldon

I paid fiveteen cents for the cam and about $16 for the brush from Aircraft Spruce.

I did the work myself. I opened the one I have up that needed the inspection by serial number and it will be getting the new brush at the next inspection in the next week or two.
 
Thanks guys... I've built radios, rebuilt engines and repaired clocks..(Oh..built my plane)...so I guess I can do my own inspection/repair... BUT thanks for the info.. I just needed the reinsurance from the RV comunity...
Will look into the tools and parts to order and jump in... Will let you know what I find and find out...
Sheldon
 
Slick mag repair pictures

I just did mine a few days ago. It had 260 hrs. on it. I took some pictures maybe they will help.
Watch the slide show.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bobbyhesterKY/SlickMagTeardown#

I am currently working on a powerpoint presentation for an EAA chapter meeting.

Things you'll need to have on hand:
Unison L-1363C Manual
Unison T118 Timing Pin - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ (search T118) $4.80
Unison T150 E-Gap Tool - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ (search T150) $12.90
Torx T20 Screwdriver (bit with a socket to fit it and a small ratchet was helpful)
Hammer
Timing Buzz Box - http://www.magnetotimer.com/
Mechanics Toolbox CD - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ Helpful directions
Replacement Parts - http://www.airpartshopping.com/ This is were I bought FAA approved aftermarket parts for slick mags.

AM3215 Carbon Brush $4.99
AM3611 Cam $0.46
A13081 Point Kit (didn't use now but wanted to have it on hand) $25.01
 
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Thanks Bobby...Your slide show worked for me... I think I can do this..
Is the tool # T-100? The only 'special' tool needed?
Thanks, Sheldon
 
buy the cheap little tools from ACS,

Paul... just what are these tools you refered to from ACS.. have a p/n ?
Sheldon
 
What you'll need to work on your mag

Unison L-1363C Manual
Unison T118 Timing Pin - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ (search T118) $4.80
Unison T150 E-Gap Tool - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ (search T150) $12.90
Torx T20 Screwdriver (bit with a socket to fit it and a small ratchet was helpful)
Hammer
Timing Buzz Box - http://www.magnetotimer.com/
Mechanics Toolbox CD - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ Helpful directions
Replacement Parts - http://www.airpartshopping.com/ This is were I bought FAA approved aftermarket parts for slick mags.

AM3215 Carbon Brush $4.99
AM3611 Cam $0.46
A13081 Point Kit (didn't use now but wanted to have it on hand) $25.01

I think this is the cam lube that you need also (I didn't have it) but check with them to make sure
LUBE CONTACT
Item #: A13081-8 $0.74
 
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Thanks Bobby...Your slide show worked for me... I think I can do this..
Is the tool # T-100? The only 'special' tool needed?
Thanks, Sheldon

You only need the T-100 toolkit if you have to pull the rotor out to replace the bearings. Otherwise you just need the e-gap tool and a timing pin.
 
You can make the timing pin. Years ago in A&P school, we used a short piece of brazing rod. I still have it and it works as good as the Unison alignment pin.
 
You don't need no stinkin' timing pin.

You can make the timing pin. Years ago in A&P school, we used a short piece of brazing rod. I still have it and it works as good as the Unison alignment pin.

I use a pop rivet mandrel. I slipped a piece of plastic tubing over the rivet for a handle. Been working for 35 years.
 
You can make the timing pin. Years ago in A&P school, we used a short piece of brazing rod. I still have it and it works as good as the Unison alignment pin.

Most A&P's probably have a box-full of timing pins since one comes with each new mag. Just ask.
 
Thanks alot guys... got all items needed on order... (by the way, brushes on BO at ACS, ).. Going on vacation will get at it when I get back.. If I have any problems, I know where to ask for help...Thanks again...
Sheldon
 
Ok guys... have them opened up and started working on them... They didn't look too bad at all...IN my case, the rotor & distubitor cap were the most obvious in replacement need... I suggest doing your inspection before ordering parts...some of the parts only come in a kit that include other parts...eg:
M3008 rotor/gear & M3819 dist cap only come in a kit K3822 that includes the bridge, brush & cam... Sheldon
 
Finished the 500hr. inspection & replacment of needed parts in my Slicks... As I mentioned in above post, best to disassembly and inspect before ordering parts... I ordered the brushes & cams seperate before tearing them down, only to find out I needed the rotors & Dist. cap...They only come in a kit K3822 which includes the brush..
If you need the points they come in a kit M3081 which includes the points, cam & lube...
My Mags were pretty clean with not much brush dust inside... Altho, the brushes didn't meet the re-usable spec per Slick manual L-1363...Which I followed religously...
Check the link for some pictures..do the slideshow.... Sheldon

http://picasaweb.google.com/sheldonb.barrett9/SlickMagRebuild?feat=directlink
 
It's not completely clear to me, does the cam/timing inspection continue even after cam replacement? I think it does based on my reading of the SB but of course I'm hoping it doesn't. It seems the brush SB goes away with replacement with a new K3215 correct?

Thanks
 
I have just finished performing this SB on my two mags as part of my second condition inspection. The mags are fairly easy to take apart and re-assemble. This is really something that I think any competent homebuilder could do him/herself.

I had 260 hours on my mags. The only real problem I found with them was one has a noticeable depression in the coil tab left by the spinning carbon brush. I followed the SB to the letter and it clearly states that if a visible depression exists in that tab that the coil should be replaced...so that's precisely what I did. Those things are ridiculously overpriced....but I guess that's the price to pay for peace of mind. It was odd to me that one of the mags was exhibiting this behavior and the other wasn't...and my mags have sequential serial numbers. Go figure.

The thing that surprised me the most about the coil was how it is just wedged into place. Pulling the wedges out was an interesting experience to say the least.

The slick overhaul manual simply tells you to hammer the new wedges in there using a flat punch, so that's what I did.

Checking the e-gap was easy...but I think the e-gap tool is almost useless. It seems to me like it's easier (and just as accurate) to look at the orifice while turning the gear and listening for the buzz box.

Overall it wasn't a bad experience. Too bad my new gaskets are back-ordered or I would have already hung the mags back on the engine and timed them.

UPDATE: Finally got some gaskets (thanks, Kahuna) and installed/timed the mags. Fired it up and it ran perfectly the first time! I actually did several runs because my mixture was set too rich on the ground and I adjusted it. The engine runs like a top. After opening up the mags and working on them I really think that I like them for ignition (as opposed to electronic ignitions). Yes, they're antiquated but they work very well and are simple and easy to work on and with my dual impulse-coupled mags I never, ever have difficulty starting the engine.
 
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Change Slick Mag parts or not

I have just opened up one of my mags to check the SB, the mags only have 90 hours and everything inside looks fine except for a little cleanup on the rotor edge. The question I have is should I go ahead and change the parts for new parts while I have the mags dissassembled. If I have read the SB correctly I do not have to reinspect the mags until 250 hours if I do nothing, however I have also read a unison statement that they have a new kit that terminates the SB and the resulting inspections by replacing the contact point assembly and the distributor block and gear assembly.
Suggestions?
 
Do it........easy to do now, pain in the butt to keep doing the checks. Not a hard decission I would have thought.

DB:cool:
 
Gasket replacement?

Not sure which mag gaskets to order for my Slick 4300 / Lyc O360 engine.

For the magneto gaskets, I see P/N 62224 as well as Lyc P/N LW12681 (ref ACS and Chief's websites). The 62224 part is referenced at ACS as a "magneto gasket", but on Chief's website its called a "Bendix magneto gasket", while they call the LW12681 a "Magneto Gasket: Slick, Lycoming".

Can someone give me some more clarity on this? What should I order for new gaskets? I have all the rest of the stuff to get my Slicks up to speed, now its time to get them back on the engine.

Thanks!
 
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