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Snapped off Brake Bleeder Seat (UGH!) what part?

JFCRV12

Well Known Member
So - bled the right brakes. Smooth and easy. No issues. That is until I went to snug up the bleeder valve and move to the left brake. Guess I was a bit too zealous and snapped off the bleeder seat while tightening the bleeder valve nut. (was holding bleeder valve seat with another wrench and must have counter turned and snap!).

Anyway, looks like I now have a brake replacement job ahead of me as I'm certain getting the snapped off bleeder valve seat out and just replacing will be the way to go. Or is it?...fun times.

So - my questions is this. To ensure I order the correct part from Matco. Would this be our Brake assembly? : http://www.matcomfg.com/BE5BRKASSYNOPLT-idv-2792-49.html
 
Why not just call them? They are great to answer questions, usually less expensive and will get it right out to you.
 
All you should need to replace is the bleeder valve assembly. The part you were holding with the back up wrench well on thread from the brake caliper, so you shouldn’t need to replace the whole brake caliper assembly.
 
Snapped off Brake Bleeder Seat

I've had a similar experience. One thing to try is take a drill bit that is small enough to not get into the threaded section, grind it backwards (i.e. left handed, bite in a reverse direction) and carefully drill into the broken piece (drill in reverse). With some amount of pressure but low speed, you be be able to get the drill bit to grab the broken piece and back it out. There are also special tools called "easy out" that are designed for this, but I have not had as great a luck with them as they apply a fair amount of their force outward, creating some amount of binding.
 
Thanks everyone! Yep - I know what I need now, but man is that bleeder valve seat in there. I'll need to give these ideas a shot to get it out. Hate to need to purchase a whole new brake assembly.

Of course it snapped at the worst possible spot. :mad:
 

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EZ out

The plug wall looks quite thin where it severed, bad luck!
An "EZ out" should be able to extract the fitting but just make sure to use a good quality tool as the cheap ones can be brittle and break off, which would make things worse.
It may help to heat up the caliper if need be, since aluminum expands more than steel.
 
If you decide to heat the caliper, consider removing the piston first so the O-ring doesn't get damaged by the heat. It's a good time to upgrade to a viton O-ring if you haven't already.
 
welp, no joy on getting it out. Tried one of the easy out type tools, and pretty much dug it up to the point I likely won't trust it not to leak if I do get it all the way out.

So, I guess I'll be ordering a new assembly for $130.

Or, I'm assuming I can just order the appropriate puck housing piston, O ring and bleeder valve kit at $56. Just not sure I got everything I need taking this route?
 
Tried spiral. Will try straight tomorrow. Ordered replacement and if we get it loose and all looks good, I’ll just cancel the order. Not convinced it was originally installed properly as I had a heck of a time removing the fittings that are used to connect to brake lines. Worried my left brake will be the same but I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.
 
Straight is the correct choice. Slightly oversize and tap into the broken receiver for maximum engagement.

Actually, the best tool is Straight Fluted Extractor with a Turn Nut.
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The straight removers are a better bet than the spiral, but likely will still just chew things up. Another thing to try is measure, then buy an appropriate left hand tap from McMaster (straight or pipe thread), drill and tap the broken piece (not all the way to the bottom), and put a left hand threaded screw (also McMaster) in there till it bottoms out, turn further and it likely will then unscrew the broken part.
 
I like the left-hand thread idea. Maybe some Loctite Threadlocker or Super Glue to fasten the screw thread. Just spitballing...
 
Once you get it all squared away and install a new bleeder, don't overtighten. Since it involves something as critical as braking, I find many people tend to overtighten these small fittings.
 
Got it out!

Was able to take to my A&P/IA's shop today. Got it out in 2 minutes. Started with spiral easy out for a few turns then reversed ends to the flat/squared off kind and out it came.

It appears the original builder used some sort of permanent seal vs. a thread sealer. It was in there. ....so, I purchased 2 bleeder valve kits as I suspect I'll have issues with the left brake assembly too before it's all said and done. Also ordered two viton o-rings for the pistons.
 

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bleeder valve replacement

i have the parker brakes and one of my bleeder valves snapped after a brake line failer, any idea where to find the part mcfarland has a larger bleeder valve version for cleveland and cessna parts but i cannot find the parker type, i guess i will have to buy a full setup. Any links will be appreciated. Its a small 1/4 head size.
thanks
 
Once you go to the Viton O-rings, I recommend also going to DOT-5 silicone brake fluid. The master cylinder rings should be good for it, and it is good for much higher temperatures. And, it doesn't get gummy like the MIL spec stuff, the persistence of which still baffles me.
 
And we have brakes! super simple. Popped the new O-ring in, pressed in the piston, re-attached the brave valve seat and AN fitting with proper thread seal.
Connected everything and bled em. No leaks, drips, or sweat. :) Love it when a plan comes together.

...of course I still need to bleed the left brake for which I expect to snap that bleeder valve seat assembly too. But I was smart enough to buy an extra!
 
How difficult was it to remove the piston? Not something I’ve attempted yet, but will do so and replace the O ring when my next CI comes due.
 
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