Door Opening Flange length for MC seals

lr172 · #1 05-27-2018, 10:34 PM

I am working on cabin top fitting and plan to install MC seals. However, I won't get my doors for another month or so. While working on the top, I would like to start trimming back the door flange to a good starting point. I don't plan to take any width off until I have doors installed, but would like to trim to length. I have reviewed Ivan's site and it looks like he used 1" of flange as measured from the flat surface of the door opening.

I was hoping to get some guidance from the group so I don't have to wait for doors to do this.

EDIT: After thinking some more, maybe it makes more sense to first trim to the 1/4" clearance. This might make it easier to fill in epoxy later.

Larry

rocketman1988 · #2 05-28-2018, 07:41 AM

I used Ivan's measurements for my seals. They worked out fine. I found that trimming the flanges to get the 1/4" thickness was the more difficult part as the flange varies in thickness from almost nothing at the bottom to well over 1/4" at the top.

It was a lot of work but the result was worth it...

az_gila · #3 05-28-2018, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocketman1988

I used Ivan's measurements for my seals. They worked out fine. I found that trimming the flanges to get the 1/4" thickness was the more difficult part as the flange varies in thickness from almost nothing at the bottom to well over 1/4" at the top.

It was a lot of work but the result was worth it...

I can't find those dimensions all in one place.

From his pictures it seems like 1" an the sides and 1 1/4 to 1 5/16 on the top

I can't find an exact dimension for the lower door sill.

Is there a place that has them all in one location? His builders log seems to have gone from the web, butt the picture album remains...I think.

Bill.Peyton · #4 05-28-2018, 11:37 AM

Larry,
The lip of the cabin cover is cut off to the point that it is parallel to the surface of the door. You will be cutting most of the lip off. You then build it back up to accommodate the mmc seal.

[IMG]

IMG_1380 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]

IMG_1411 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]

IMG_1453 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]

IMG_1456 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]

az_gila · #5 05-28-2018, 02:31 PM

Are there any differences in this area between the early green tops and the later pink tops?

The pictures above look like the dimension left is much less than an inch that others have quoted.

Bill.Peyton · #6 05-28-2018, 07:38 PM

It really doesn’t matter whether it’s an inch or half inch. The frame needs to be trimmed until it is parallel to the mating surface of the door. Then the parallel surface needs to be extended to support the seal. The outer surface needs to be built up so the gap between the door and the door frame is uniform. The steps are to first trim the door frame, then build the doors and fit them to the frame, then work on building up the door frame to accommodate the MC seal.

[IMG]

IMG_1394 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]

IMG_1396 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]

Bill Boyd · #7 05-28-2018, 07:46 PM

Bill is right, and a section of the edge trim works well as a reusable mold to build up the trimmed edge by packing it with flox. I did my doorways in about a week each, moving the short piece and doing the next section. If you buy 25 feet from McMaster, you will have about 3 or 4 feet of surplus to use for this. It does eventually break after repeatedly pulling it off the cured flox. But if you're careful, you won't have to buy the 50 foot roll to get it all done.

az_gila · #8 05-28-2018, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocketman1988

I used Ivan's measurements for my seals. They worked out fine. I found that trimming the flanges to get the 1/4" thickness was the more difficult part as the flange varies in thickness from almost nothing at the bottom to well over 1/4" at the top.

It was a lot of work but the result was worth it...

Where are Ivan's measurements?

I think I prefer a number to start cutting.

rocketman1988 · #9 05-29-2018, 06:59 AM

I will see if I can find Ivan?s pictures on my computer. My door flanges worked out to be about 1? on the sides and bottom and increasing around the top to fit the billet strut bracket. The thickness of the flange was inconsistent, ranging from less than 1/8? to almost 7/16?. Wish someone would have offered an aftermarket cabin top...not real impressed with the stock fiberglass work...