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RV-3 Plans - 'Clarifications'

Andy Hill

Well Known Member
I have suggested to Paul Dye that we start this thread as a 'sticky'. It is intended as a summary of significant errors / omissions / areas needing clarification in an RV-3(B) build. Paul's seems to like the idea :eek:

To keep it separate from the ever expanding "advice" topics, we suspect it will need "moderating" according to a set of rules, which as a first guess might be:
  1. Posts titled with the major sub-structure affected, maybe then with the Part #(s) e.g. Flaps - FL-303
  2. A brief summary of the "apparent" error, and the suggested "solution"
  3. Where possible, expand the above information not in the post, but by links to websites / VAF threads giving further info
  4. Replies - additions to the info e.g. follow up later in a build as to whether it worked or not, use the same post 'title', and maybe the replies can be moderated into the original post...
Summary - to be effective the posts must be concise, and not diverge "off topic" ;)

Andy (Hill)
RV-8 G-HILZ
RV-3 SB going slowly

PS I'll kick off with a sample on Flaps...
 
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Flaps - FL-303

Root Rib needs moving inboard

Randy's site info from Dan Benua
DWG 9 - Flaps. ... My solution is to move the FL-303 rib inboard by about 7/8". This places the linkage attach point closer to the curve of the fuselage. To achieve this the top flange of the FL-302 lap spar should be dimensioned to 49.5". The lower flange lengh should be 51", which is the length of the supplied material. The rib and FL-305 reinforcing plate should be mounted coincident with the end of the top flange. (N.B. I haven't yet built the fuselage to conclusively prove that this modification is beneficial!)
This seems to fit in with Tony Spicer's experience as per:Used washers to space a coupling nut on the flap stud where a spacer was required, and Without moving the flap arms inboard the pushrod will contact the inboard edge of the flap fairing.Rob Holmes also had some issues Pic

Follow up(s)
[Andy Hill April 2010] We have built the Flaps with FL-303 moved inboard by 7/8". Will update in ? months/years when we fit to the fuselage
 
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Great Idea Andy.

I have already have a section of my build site devoted to this. I have collated all of Paul's relevant posts onto this page in my site and I will be updating it as and when an appropriate post or piece of information comes my way. Here is a list of Paul's posts, that fall under your criteria:

Error on Quick Build Wing

Aileron Gap rivet question

F-303 Center Section Build-up

Lower Forward Stringers in the Fuselage

F-336 “Wall Outlet” SNAFU….

Send me a mail if this is okay, and if Paul wants to expand on these topics later I will edit this post out.
 
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Flaps - Too long?

Flap parts longer than Plans?

DWG 9 shows a distance of 10 1/2" from the Flap TE to the Hinge CL with reference to the fuselage datum. Trig that to the vertical displacement and you get ~10 19/32" as the length measured directly from TE to the Hinge CL.

Putting the (supplied) FL-302 (Spar) and FL-303 (Outboard Rib) into FL-301 (Skin), and adding the hinge as per Plans gave a distance about 5/32" more'. Paul Dye seems to have come across supporting evidence of this RV-3B - Fiddling with Flaps
With the ailerons mounted per plans, and measuring so, we discovered that the flaps were sticking out close to a quarter inches beyond the ailerons.

Solution(s)? Paul describes how he tackled it in the above link. Being a SB, we could try to tackle it closer to source, and moved the Flap Spar back ~2/32", and trimmed the hinge / skin / positioning and got another 2/32". Assembled the distance is 10 20/32" i.e. we seem to have "removed" 4/32" of the 5/32" error... but will only know when we fit ailerons to the wing.

Request(s) for Info: Can others let me know / post here and I'll edit into this post, this measurement for their Flaps, esp QB ones.

Follow up(s)
[Andy Hill Apr 2010] We have built the Flaps with the direct distance of Flap TE to Hinge CL = 10 20/32". Will update when Flaps/Ailerons/Wings all fitted as to how TEs line up :confused:
 
Mount aileron's first

I'm not sure what the QB guys are facing, but for a SB wing the
procedure is straight forward. Mount the ailerons first and use
an airfoil template to be sure they are exactly in trail. Build
the flaps next, and drill the hinge to them. You don't have much
flexibility on the distance from the flap spar to trailing edge unless
you modify the shape of the end ribs. Finally, trim the trailing edge
of the lower skin so that the flap and aileron trailing edges are
in line when the other half of the hinge is drilled. The flap brace is f
abricated an mounted after the skin edge is trimmed.

You should considered the dimensions on the plans to be only
advisory. On this airplane, nearly everything is "trim to fit".
You always have to be thinking about which dimensions are
not adjustable, and then adjusting everything else to make
things match.

- Dan Benua
 
Rear Deck Access/Lightening Holes

When fabricating the rear fuselage deck, I laid out the holes (forward round one, middle "pear-shaped, aft rectangle) per the drawings, and it just didn't look right - the rectangular hole at the back looked too far aft by about an inch. These holes are located on the drawing by measuring incrementally from the front of the deck, and I discovered that the "8 inches" seemed to be the error - it put the pear-shaped and rectangular holes an inch too far back. I laid it out again replacing the "8" with a "7", and everything fit much better.

Treat this as a "potential" plans issue - I'll report further if I have created a new problem by changing the locations.

Paul
 
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HS rear spar rivet spacing

When constructing the rear spar of the horizantal stabilizer, pay close attention to the rivet spacing in the area where the fuselage - HS attachment bars will be bolted on. You must leave plenty of space between rivets in order for these bars to sit flush.

When drilling the rivets for the rear deck access plate, pay close attention to the rivet locations in the area that the front horizantal stabalizer angle bracket will be attached. The rivets holding down the rear access plate could interfere with the front spar hold down angle.
 
F-337 Pushrod Length

Quick summary - 48 1/2" worked for me.

The plans leave a lot to be desired when it comes to fabricating the elevator pushrods. The forward one (F-337) that links the stick to the bell crank is shown on Drawing 22 with a cut tube length of 49 1/2 inches "To be determined in assembly". Well, it's good that they warn you, and also that the 49 1/2 inches is extremely generous - it's much easier to trim more off than it is to add it back on.

The exact length is dependent on the final position of the stick mixer assembly and the bellcrank - neither of which positions can be determined from drawings (they are shown but not dimensioned). I centered the bellcrank between the F-306 and F-307 bulkheads and positioned the mixer bearings where they seemed to fall given the mounting angle length. I then cut the pushrod to the specified length and did a test fit. Clearly, it was too long, as the stick and bellcranks were at their full deflection with the rod ends screwed all the way in.

I shortened the tube in small increments, and finally got to the point where the bellcrank was mid-travel with the stick in about the middle of it's range. most importantly, I can get full stick travel and full bellcrank travel. This is still with the rod end bearing screwed almost all the way in. This occurred with the tube cut to 48 1/2" - one inch shorter than specified. Seems like a large deviation, but I can always screw the rod ends back out to get almost an inch back if I need it later.

I couldn't find anything in the instructions or drawing that give rigging instructions, so I am going with the idea of mid-range for the stick should be mid-range for the bellcrank, We'll see if that works when I mount the elevator.

Paul
 
DWG 9 - 'Wingwalk' (Left Wing)

DWG 9 details the Wingwalk reinforcement, and states sheet required 10"x24". Also states "Left Wing only".

Kit provides a sheet 10"x48"... and you might be forgiven for thinking they gave you enough for 2 e.g. in case you built a slider canopy and wanted one RHS as well.

Unless I have got it wrong I found the sheet required to be trimmed to ~9.5" x ~25" - so suggest do not cut the sheet in half / to the stated dimensions - carefully measure the ribs/spars and cut/trim accordingly (pretty good advice for the RV-3 all round ;) )

Andy
 
DWG 16 - Rudder

Not an "error", but definitely a well laid trap :)

The Build Manual and the main Rudder drawing all seem clear - bottom rib rivets to Rudder skin, been there, done that a few times before. So we'll drill, dimple, prime and rivet.

Before doing this, I had a think ahead - how do we attach the Fibreglass Rudder bottom? Study drawing, takes me to Section E-E, look at that, and lo and behold, see it requires a ~1" wide strip of 0.032" to be riveted with the above on the inside of the rib.

Looking at the RV-3 build websites, and some "completed" rudders, not much evidence seen of these strips :confused: So presumably some rebuilds going on at the end as the tips get fitted :mad:

Andy
 
I don't have the drawing number handy, but until I do, I'll plant this reminder post....

The drawing for the elevator push rods shows the rod between the stick and the bell crank to be 49 1/2" (ref). I ended up with 48 1/2"....so your mileage may vary, and that is why it is labeled as "ref". Don't be surprised if yours is a different length, and measure carefully!

Paul
 
Instrument Panel Center Height?

I started fabricating my instrument panel this weekend and the y axis dimensions on drawing 17 did not match the actual drawing.

Is 9 1/2" correct for height at center of the panel?

On drawing 17, reading from left to right, bottom to top, and starting at point (10,5.32) I believe the y axis dimensions should be:

5.32, 6.23, 7.04, 7.68, 8.19, 8.62, 8.95, 9.23, 9.4, 9.48, 9.5

I don't see how you could go up on the y axis and the measurement decrease? ie 5.32 to 5.23.
 
You're right Mark - the numbers on the drawing don't add up! I used the actual outline on the drawing -traced it on to thin paper and transfered that to the aluminum, and it worked out great. You can make the panel about 3/4" taller with the material Van's gives you - actually, you make the top the same height, you just let the bottom hang down an additional 3/4"....You want the "slots" for the longerons to be the same distance below the "top" of the panel (as on the drawing) to make the contours right.

Paul
 
Instrument Panel Top Curve

If you are making a tip-over canopy, you can ignore the plans for
the instrument panel top curve and just match it to the front bow
of the canopy frame. You will want to make the forward top skin
line up just below the top of the canopy bow. A strip of aluminum
attached to the top of the forward canopy bow overlaps the panel
and forward top skin to form a glare shield. This is shown crypically
in SK-54.

Also keep in mind that control stick must clear the bottom edge of
the panel. As you increase the panel height to fit in more stuff, your
stick must also get shorter. I'm using an Infinity grip in my RV-3B and
tried to keep the stick as long as possible while clearing the panel.

- Dan Benua
 
Also keep in mind that control stick must clear the bottom edge of
the panel. As you increase the panel height to fit in more stuff, your
stick must also get shorter. I'm using an Infinity grip in my RV-3B and
tried to keep the stick as long as possible while clearing the panel.

I was sort of worried about this when I made the bottom of the panel 3/4" lower, but when I installed the panel and the stick, I found that I had more than 3" of clearance between the top of the stick and the bottom of the panel. This was way different than my RV-8, where the stock stick hit the stock panel!

I ended up cutting about 1/2" off the top of our stick (on the -3) before mounting the Infinity grip, just because that is where it felt comfortable for both Louise and I. it helps to have cushions before making this decision.

YMMV (true of everything in a -3.....);)

Paul
 
Flaps - FL-303

This is a follow-up to post #2 in this thread.

A couple of years ago I recommended moving the flap inboard
rib closer to the fuselage by 7/8" to improve the linkage geometry.
This was based on careful measurements of Randy Lervold's machine.
Recently I was finally able to assemble my fuselage, wing, flap,
linkage, and fairing. To my relief it all fit just right!

The photo below shows the control linkage almost vertical, with plenty
of clearance with the F354 fairing. Also note the stiffeners and
rubber channel applied to the flap bottom skin to help it fair
smoothly to the fuselage tailcone when the flaps are retracted.
This yet another area that is a bit more complex than indicated by the plans :).

ak7srm.jpg
 
Elevator Horns

Hi Guys,

Not sure if I`m in the right place or not but here goes,
Fitting elevators to HS to drill horns for centre bearing, set rod ends to 3/4 to get 2" between spars but horn hits attach bolt on centre bearing bracket before getting enough down travel, increased rod end to 7/8 on inboard hinge but still restricts travel. Is it the plans or is it me. Looking for suggestions on what others might have done.

Peter Pendergast
Australia
 
Hi Peter,
If I understand correctly, the flange of the steel horn hits the bottom AN3 bolt heads that hold the centre brg to the stab spar ?
My horns were RV 4 parts and oversize, I cut them down and rewelded one flange...as I recall.
I believe they were too long also, centre bearing to pushrod hole.
Mike
 
Hi Mike,

You are correct, horns are bigger in every way. If I leave inboard rod end at 7/8 instead of 3/4 I get minimum control deflection, will think about a fix for that in time, will 4 1/4 to the push rod rod end be a problem?
I`ve built a couple of 7`s round hole round peg must be right but the 3 certainly has my old brain in overdrive.

thanks Peter
 
Peter,
I cut mine to plans length also because I didn't want to change the ratio between stick travel to elevator deflection. In hindsight my elevator stick forces are higher than I like, leaving the horn would have reduced them with a little more stick travel. Its frustrating to pay for parts that don't fit and then have to troubleshoot a fix.
Mike
 
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the heads up on the stick force, will work with horns as they are. I think I will be able to get 2 1/16 or so between spars and still get the 1/4 bolt through the centre bearing with a metal lock nut [ smaller o/d ]. Considering swapping bottom two bolts with countersunk, I think AN 509 10, same shear strength as AN 3 but not sure what difference the head makes in this case. Any engineers out there.

Peter
 
VS-307 Warning

"Just a warning to anyone else who might start believing the RV-3 parts will fit - The top (narrow) end of the VS-307 is too wide to fit inside the VS-303 spar. You have to taper the top end of the VS-307 to make it fit. This isn't a big problem unless you follow the instructions and fabricate the VS-307 per the drawings. When will I learn :rolleyes: " -From 13brv3 a long time ago

Thought I'd paste this from the VS-307 thread into this one so it's easier to find before any metal gets cut! :eek:
 
Wing Rivit Layout

Katie, if you think the emp drawings leave a bit to be desired, try the wing drawings and I'm sure the fuse drawings are a bit worse. The Q/B wings are a little more expensive now, and especially to AUS with freight and GST, so slow build for me. I think the drawings still refer to fuse fuel and old spar because not many of the dimensions on the rivet layout drawings look anything like whats supplied but a bit of double checking and forge ahead.
Even the manual refers to holes in the spar for the fuel tank attach brackets which are non existent so all we can do is measure twice and cut/drill once.
But you know what, I'm having fun and enjoying the challenge.
Sorry for being a little computer challenged but I would post a piccy.

Regards Peter
 
Peter, you just made me happy that we got QB wings....despite having to re-do some parts of the wings. If you ever need photos of completed wings, let us know.
 
VS tip

New here !
Building the VS and it seems the skin really needs to be squeezed at the top
where the fiberglass-tip goes. To keep a 1/8' overhang at the main spar seems
to have left the top to high / not forming to the rib. I guess we will shim this
to fill the gap.

Where did I go wrong ?
Paul
Honolulu
 
Inventory List Update

When I inventoried the RV-3B empennage, standard-build wing and tail kits which I received May 10, 2012, there were a few things which were not clear. I called Van's and got some information.

1. The F-303 bulkhead came disassembled and the pieces had a serial number. So did the wing spars. However, the serial numbers didn't match. Van's says this doesn't matter since they are drilled precisely using CNC equipment, and that they haven't been shipping matching serial numbered parts for some time now. No need to panic, they'll fit.

2. Some parts had no RV-3 part number but were labeled as RV-4 parts. Van's assured me that these would fit. Here's a connection:

F-407 is F-305
F-425 is F-323
F-426 is F-325
F-433 is F-328C
F-461 is part of the seat back.

3. There was an "extra" bag of hardware in the wing kit. It's bag 498, containing four bearings and a small handful of rivets. These aren't extra at all. They are for the aileron mounting brackets, which have their own plans in with the inventory list, not rolled up with the wing plans. These are some of the few parts which are prepunched.

4. Since the tailwheel is included in the fuselage kit, that's where you'd need to make the substitution for the lightweight tailwheel.

5. The flap control, WD-305, is 23.5" side to side. The plans say it should be 24". Van's says that the correct dimension is 23.5", as supplied, with the plastic block mounts and that they've been supplying them this length for 20 years.

Dave
 
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How Out Of Date Are The Preview Plans?

Now that I have all the plans, I checked the revision level and drawing dates against my preview plans. The preview plans are dated 9-15-2010 and the full-size plans are current.

These preview plans are out of date - the rest are current: 8, 10, 11, 12, 21 and 36.

It appears as if the last plans update was February 2003.

Dave
 
Horizontal Stabilizer Skin Trim Line Dimension

Looking at drawing 15, the rear edge of the HS-301 skin overhangs the rear spar. The dimension is shown as 1" from the rear spar web in the top left-hand corner of the drawing, but on the top right-hand corner, with the HS-310/311 figure, it's shown as 7/8".

A discussion here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=50858&highlight=HS-301
suggests that the overhang be trimmed when the elevator is being fitted.

It would sure be easier to trim the skin before it's riveted to the frame. Anyone have any tips on trimming them after it's riveted?

Thanks,
Dave
 
It would sure be easier to trim the skin before it's riveted to the frame. Anyone have any tips on trimming them after it's riveted?
I had to shorten mine up a bit after riveting. A pair of tin snips and a 36" long sanding bar worked for me.
 
Stand-Off Brackets For Hinges on Jig

The manual, in Figure 6-1, says to make these 1.5" from base to centerline of the pin. This doesn't give enough room for dimpling tools to get in for the rear spar - at least not mine.

I can't see any harm in making them taller. I don't know what the optimal height would be, but it's got to be greater than 1.5".

Dave
 
Vertical Stabilizer Spar Dimensions

I put this together to help me locate things. Be careful - the right side is mostly to scale vertically (not horizontally) but the left side isn't.

Dave

xoh285.jpg
 
Rudder Stiffener Taper

The stiffeners for the rudder, according to the plans, need to be tapered for a length of 2.5 inches. But, as someone already pointed out, that's for the 1/2" stiffener that the plans describe. The actual stiffener that comes with the kit is 5/8 inch, so the dimension ought to be 3 1/8 inches, which is what I cut here. Then it has the same slope, and this is what it looks like if you are using zinc chromate and pro-sealing the stiffeners.

2q34t2q.jpg


In this photo, the rudder is in its jig but I've put the photo on its side to make it easier to see and the frame is removed.

What I've found is that I can't bend the trailing edge far enough to get a straight rudder surface because the stiffeners touch the opposite skin and prevent that. I checked with the RV-4 preview plans and for that plane, the trim distance is 6 inches. The stiffener for the RV-4 is 5/8 inch so that dimension can be used as is.

It's a lot easier to trim these to 6 inches before they're riveted to the skin, hint, hint, but it can be done afterwards. Takes about an hour. I used snips and the Vixen file. Deburring was interesting.

And sure 'nuff, this allows for a proper bend.

Dave
 
It's a lot easier to trim these to 6 inches before they're riveted to the skin, hint, hint, but it can be done afterwards. Takes about an hour. I used snips and the Vixen file. Deburring was interesting.

And sure 'nuff, this allows for a proper bend.

Dave

I did the same thing with the snips & file. It started as an act of desperation, but turned out to be a lot easier than I had imagined!
 
Elevator Horn Issues

Van's sent me the elevator horn for the RV-4, which is somewhat larger than the one for the RV-3B. They said they would not build the RV-3B one. This has been previously reported. Here's how I dealt with it.

There are two main issues. First, it simply doesn't fit. The V is too wide. Here's a template for the RV-3 part resting on the RV-4 part.

14t2atg.jpg


I hack-sawed this to fit, filing it smooth. It wasn't a big deal. This shows the start of a cut.

33wqk9w.jpg


Here's a comparison:

jpzg9g.jpg


For reference, here is the RV-3B drawing for this part:

2n19i6f.jpg


And for the RV-4 part which was included with the kit:

65x4sz.jpg


There's one more issue. The horn itself is too long. I propose to build a new bellcrank with the upper arm 5.0625 inches long. This will provide the same control gearing that the RV-3B was designed with. People have complained that with the as-delivered parts, it's on the light side.

Turns out that the bellcrank is one of the very few parts which is pre-punched and cut to final shape. Kind of ironic, eh?

Dave
 
People have complained that with the as-delivered parts, it's on the light side.

Turns out that the bellcrank is one of the very few parts which is pre-punched and cut to final shape. Kind of ironic, eh?

Dave

Nice mod to make it fit Dave.

Just a comment on your last statement - we used the supplied bellcrank and arm lengths for elevator and aileron, and I have never flown an airplane that is more harmonious than our -3. Not sure how you could make it better, but you could make it a lot worse.....so be sure you want to do it before changing things. CG is the easiest way to change the pitch control forces in my experience.

Paul
 
Okay, thanks - I'll build it with the supplied bellcrank. It'll be easy enough to replace if I want to once it's flying.

Dave
 
On the Elevator Horns

I should have re-read "27 Years of the RVator." This is discussed on page 67, from 1995. Not exactly a new discovery.

From now on, a New Year's Resolution for 2013 -- don't do anything without checking the Book.

Dave
 
Wing Rib Lightening Holes - Cut 'Em Out

On my wings, many of the holes in the main ribs are not punched out. Got to wondering how the aileron pushrod would ever get through all that aluminum, and checked some photos of other airplanes. Sure enough, they had all the lightening holes cut out.

Andy Hill kindly sent me this response from Van's Support:
"All lightening holes can be cut out so long as there is a reinforcing 'ring' stamped into the rib in that location. Tank ribs are the exception, of course.
"Regards, Scott at Van's"

So now I've got some hole-cutting ahead. I counted 26 holes. I ordered one of those Malco hole-cutting tools. I've also got snips, a very good nibbler (an Adel) and drum sanders. I decided not to use a fly-cutter.

Dave
 
Silly engineer, even a girl can use a fly cutter!
5626671179868340802


And the girl even finished the ribs with all fingers, teeth and eyeballs intact. :eek:
 
Silly engineer, even a girl can use a fly cutter!
5626671179868340802


And the girl even finished the ribs with all fingers, teeth and eyeballs intact. :eek:


That's because the girl was smart enough to use a big honkin' clamp to hold things in place.
Some people aren't that smart... :D
 
Rivets Between Rear Spar & Ribs

It wasn't clear to me how many rivets two of the inboard ribs needed at the rear spar, so I asked the Mothership. They sent me this picture. The red dots are the additional rivets.

a2fyx4.jpg


Dave
 
Wing's Inspection Hole Parts

I drilled my wing's bottom main skins to the spar and ribs. The plan was that the inspection hole covers and doublers would be done afterwards. Wrong! The W-322PP covers, some of the very few pre-punched parts, have fasteners which go through the front spar flange, and once I'd drilled the flange for the skin in those areas, the holes no longer lined up.

Another possible gotcha is the pitot tube.

So on your wings, figure out those details BEFORE drilling the bottom skins to the front spar, at least in those areas.

Dave
 
Wing Inspection Part Dimensions

Refer to Dwg 5, and look at the W-335A and W-336A doublers. See how the attachment rivets are fairly close to the inside edge of the skin? And the K1100-08 plate nuts are close to the inside edge of the doubler?

I followed these dimensions and now that I'm done with them, I think that the 3/4 inch space ought to be where the plate nuts are, and the 1/2 inch space ought to be where the rivets are. Of course this means that the access cover will need to be 1/2 inch wider and 1/4 inch deeper, or the doublers be made smaller.

The way I've got it right now, the plate nuts are right at the very edge of the doubler, and I think some of them might even overhang inside the access space just a hair.

Here's what one of the doublers looks like.

2ihm5ue.jpg


This one has the pass-through hole for the pitot tube, which accounts for the ear on the left. Otherwise it's to the plans.

Dave
 
Leading Edge Top Or Bottom?

When I took the leading edge skins home, it wasn't clear that these things had a top or bottom. But they do. SK-33 hints at it by showing the rivet patterns differing. Here's another way to tell. The first photo shows the right way:

wsuv5j.jpg


The second photo shows the wrong way:

25ey6bt.jpg


Look at the leading edge curve right at the top front of the rib. See how, on the second photo, it overlaps the flange? You don't want that.

Dave
 
Leading Edge Rib Spacing Tool

In the photos in the previous posting, you can see a threaded rod poking out through the forward tooling hole in that rib.

In this rib, the tooling hole distance from the spar flange is a bit less than for the others. Not much of a problem but it could be awkward with some tools used for spacing the ribs. It's not obvious.

Dave
 
Pitot Line Routing

When planning the routing for the pitot tube or other lines or wires, make sure that they don't interfere with access to the tank bolts that attach to the Z-fittings. I just saw an aircraft where it does, and if the tank ever needs to come off, removing those bolts will be somewhat awkward.

I think that if you can keep those wires or tubes near the top or bottom of the ribs you'll be fine.

This is just another of the many things to think ahead about.

Dave
 
Tank Rib Reinforcement

Here's what the tank rib's leading edge reinforcement is supposed to look like:

w0rygx.jpg


But the ribs have a tooling hole that's right where the straight edge of the reinforcement goes. If you build to the drawing you'll be left trying to fill that tooling hole with sealant.

I extended the reinforcement a bit to cover the tooling hole:

1zlxjlv.jpg


Dave
 
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