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Sikaflexing Whole Canopy

rockitdoc

Well Known Member
Sponsor
I am getting ready to Sikaflex my canopy. Does anyone know of any tutorials on how to glue the rear canopy in? My questions mainly involve the very aft perimeter that is under the skin. How to keep this in position while the 'glue' sets up is what I am wondering about. Build a falsework to hold it in position? Or, would several props work? Or, is gluing the rear canopy not recommended?
 
This is what I did to support the rear window on my RV-9A tip up canopy.

i-s6GsPNJ-M.jpg


Just a shelf, some very flexible strips of plywood veneer scraps I had, then covered on the ends with some foam taped on. It worked great to hold some pressure on the acrylic against the skin.

Lots of other photos in my build log.

I recently did a Tech Counselor visit on an RV-14A build where the builder was also comtemplating using SikaFlex. I pointed out that the RV-14 kit is already prepunched for the rear window screw holes, so if you glue in the canopy, you are going to see the holes in the skin. On my RV-9A fuselage skin, you have to drill out your own holes for the screws called out in the plans.
 
This is what I did to support the rear window on my RV-9A tip up canopy.

i-s6GsPNJ-M.jpg


Just a shelf, some very flexible strips of plywood veneer scraps I had, then covered on the ends with some foam taped on. It worked great to hold some pressure on the acrylic against the skin.

Lots of other photos in my build log.

I recently did a Tech Counselor visit on an RV-14A build where the builder was also comtemplating using SikaFlex. I pointed out that the RV-14 kit is already prepunched for the rear window screw holes, so if you glue in the canopy, you are going to see the holes in the skin. On my RV-9A fuselage skin, you have to drill out your own holes for the screws called out in the plans.

If the Sikaflex oozes through the predrilled holes, can it be sanded smooth and painted over? Or, will it still show?
 
Sika

That's the beauty of Sika. It won't stick if there's no primer. Sand it, slice it clean with a razor or just pick it out.
 
That's the beauty of Sika. It won't stick if there's no primer. Sand it, slice it clean with a razor or just pick it out.[/

So, you don’t think filling the predrilled holes with epoxy/micro and sanding flat is necessary? Or, would it be better to sand it, slice it, pick it out, then fill what holes remain with epoxy/micro sand and paint?
 
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Filling holes

That's the beauty of Sika. It won't stick if there's no primer. Sand it, slice it clean with a razor or just pick it out.[/

So, you don’t think filling the predrilled holes with epoxy/micro and sanding flat is necessary? Or, would it be better to sand it, slice it, pick it out, then fill what holes remain with epoxy/micro sand and paint?

Either method will work, but you don't want the Sika in the hole unless there's primer. It won't stick so eventually the paint will crack. I would do it before because it eliminates the problem of Sika oozing through the holes and a subsequent clean up. Lay down packing tape inside. Apply micro to fill the holes from the outside. Set the windshield. Work the holes or layup a targa strip to cover the seam.
 
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