Fitting the Snorkel

I've been wrestling with trying to fit the snorkel for half a day and can't see how sanding on the fuel controller end will make it fit properly. I have the exp version of the IO390 so I am trying to fit to the FM-200C fuel controller. It seems my problem would go away if the #2 cylinder oil return line were positioned further aft. The snorkel also bumps into the starter solenoid, but the more immediate problem is the oil return line. I'm reluctant to remove it and start rebending unless this is a common problem for the exp engines. Anyone else encounter this?

I got around interferences like that by reshaping the snorkel as needed. I would recommend doing these minor glass modifications well before considering rebending those oil lines. 5052 lines are easily damaged & don't bend easily.

I had the same clearance issues. I cut my snorkel in 1/2 near the upper filter frame, connected each end to where it should be and then glassed the 2 halves together. Some before and after pics below.

I was able to complete mine without modifying the snorkel. I had to alter the oil return line. No way it would work how Lycoming had it. I just removed it until the snorkel was done, then altered and shortened it. Sanding down the end at the servo does have an impact.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YHyRET3ZB69Bi2EB6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TxHQjDGXDJ1pBoFz7

Frankensnorkel

On my 7A IO-360-M1B, I studied it for quite some time. Finally, I cut it right near the starter. I fit the two parts separately then glassed the seam back together. So much easier.

Oil return lines

Regarding the oil return lines, Tom, (TS Flightlines) makes some steel braided lines with AN fittings that’ll probably eliminate your clearance problem and will definitely eliminate the oil leaks that you WILL have in the future. I’m installing these lines as part of my build.

TS Flightlines

Tom and Steve, (TS Flightlines) did a nice design with these lines. 400 hours and no issues. Thanks !

Thought I would offer a follow-up on my original post. Based on the helpful feedback from others on their similar experience, and on my specific fitment, I chose to modify the snorkel rather than bend/replace the oil return line. I ended up having to cut clearance slots out of the snorkel where it conflicted with the oil return line and the starter solenoid. From there, I applied shims and mold release to both the oil return line and the starter solenoid, fit the snorkel in proper position, then applied 3 plys of bias-cut fiberglass on the interior of the snorkel using the oil return line and the solenoid as their own molds. This way I have minimal disruption to the air flow in the snorkel and a now it fits perfectly too.

I'm just frustrated that almost every time I get to a fiberglass part that it doesn't fit and ends up taking orders of magnitude more time than I expected. On the bright side, I'm learning new skills though.

I had to cut quite a bit of the snorkel on my IO-360 with B&C starter to get it to fit.

It seems Lycoming has variability with the oil drain line that gets installed on their engines. When the snorkel was developed, it cleared the line on the engine used for modeling but there was interference on the engine used on the RV-15.
TS flightlines has a custom bent line available (I think) that can be substituted.
I think this is a much better solution rather than putting a clearance bump in the snorkel that could potentially disturb the airflow.