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Securing b-nut hex screw carb heat cable...

Michael Burbidge

Well Known Member
My carb heat came with a b-nut and related hardware. This is use to attach the bowden cable to the carb heat actuator arm. The cable is secured with the hex compression screw. What keeps the compression screw from vibrating out? Should this be torqued to a specific value? Should I use blue loctite? Here's a picture of the hardware I'm referring to.

Ogexmdi.jpg


Thanks,
Michael-
 
Yup... Blue Loctite will work and lock it down good and tight. :) I would even put a drop over the end when done.
 
Michael,
If you plan to fly a lot you might look into a modification of stock setup. When I was building a lot of flying RVators were complaining about excessive wear and even failure of stock setup.

Bob Axsom had a very good idea on his RV6A and I copied it. Really simple.





After almost 1000 hours the cable and arm are still intact but hinge and carb heat door worn beyond recognition. If I listened I would put baffle material instead of hinge early in my build.






 
carb heat cable attach

mine seems to be working well. secure the nut about half way on the lever. extend the wire thru the nut and then bend the end of the wire so that it contacts the upper fwd edge of the end of the lever and puts load on the nut to keep it from vibrating when in the full open position. secure the cable two places on throttle plate with stand-offs. this will allow for positive forward load on the cable wire so that when you push to the open position you will have some spring back to know it is fully open and it will not vibrate.
 
Last edited:
Michael,
If you plan to fly a lot you might look into a modification of stock setup. When I was building a lot of flying RVators were complaining about excessive wear and even failure of stock setup.

Bob Axsom had a very good idea on his RV6A and I copied it. Really simple.





After almost 1000 hours the cable and arm are still intact but hinge and carb heat door worn beyond recognition. If I listened I would put baffle material instead of hinge early in my build.








Vlad,

Any chance you have a parts list for your mod?

Thanks,
Dan
 
rod end

Standard 1/4" shank 3/16" bore rod end bearing from Spruce. Many options least expensive is fine for that application
 
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