PerfTech
Well Known Member
..... I decided to post this in hopes it will help some others and solve a couple of
ongoing problems for some of you guys. We do a lot of bearing and wheel mods
here at Anti-Splat-Aero (average about 15 or so weekly). We also mount, true
and balance a lot of tires as well. I consistently see an ongoing mistake being made
on the Matco front wheels that is easy to make if one is not aware of the way they
were originally made. When these wheels are machined, they are assembled with
the two halves bolted together. This requires they are always assembled back in this
same configuration. They mark the one half with a chevron opposite the valve stem
as seen below in the photo. If not in this position the wheel halves will wobble
and not spin true. This can cause a multitude of undesirable issues, tire shaking,
tire wear, bearing failure to name a few. You may wish to make a better mark!
We see this often when we receive mounted tires and wheels.
.
.
The next thing we would like to pass along that is an ongoing problem for the
RV-10s & RV-14s is the issue of the nose wheel valve stems being way too
long and contacting the fork. We see wheels come in with bent over valve
stems, worn down stems, jammed valve caps, and all manor of apparatus
attached to keep them from hitting the forks. With the Matco wheels this is
not necessary. Here is how to fix this issue and eliminate the problem. If you
look closely at the following photo you will see that the valve stem exits the
same side of the wheel half that has the stem slot. There in is the problem
when using a standard angle stem tube that seems too long.
.
.
To remedy the long valve stem issue, all that is required is to drill one 5/16" hole
exactly opposite the existing valve stem hole to exit the other wheel half. This is
very easy to accomplish by using the existing hole as a pilot hole for the location.
You just drill through it and out the other side of the wheel. All that is left to do is
deburr the hole and assemble the wheel halves with the valve stem exiting the
other side of the wheel. This moves the valve stem over, in essence making
it about an inch shorter and solving the problem. We do this mod often for
the 10s & 14s.
.
.
After this small mod is performed the valve stems will have ample clearance
and will no longer hit or rub on the fork. This eliminates the need to bend the
stems and makes adding air when wheel pant is in place much easier.
.
.
As you can see the valve stem with the cap in place is about 3/8" lower than
the sidewall of the tire, and 3/4" away from the fork with the spacer installed.
.
keybank atm locations near me
.
.
?.I hope this information will help a few of you guys avoid an issue or two, and
please go have a look at our website once in a while. We continuously
introduce new products and services to enhance these wonderful aircraft and
add to your flying enjoyment, comfort, and safety. Regards all, Allan..
ongoing problems for some of you guys. We do a lot of bearing and wheel mods
here at Anti-Splat-Aero (average about 15 or so weekly). We also mount, true
and balance a lot of tires as well. I consistently see an ongoing mistake being made
on the Matco front wheels that is easy to make if one is not aware of the way they
were originally made. When these wheels are machined, they are assembled with
the two halves bolted together. This requires they are always assembled back in this
same configuration. They mark the one half with a chevron opposite the valve stem
as seen below in the photo. If not in this position the wheel halves will wobble
and not spin true. This can cause a multitude of undesirable issues, tire shaking,
tire wear, bearing failure to name a few. You may wish to make a better mark!
We see this often when we receive mounted tires and wheels.
.
.
The next thing we would like to pass along that is an ongoing problem for the
RV-10s & RV-14s is the issue of the nose wheel valve stems being way too
long and contacting the fork. We see wheels come in with bent over valve
stems, worn down stems, jammed valve caps, and all manor of apparatus
attached to keep them from hitting the forks. With the Matco wheels this is
not necessary. Here is how to fix this issue and eliminate the problem. If you
look closely at the following photo you will see that the valve stem exits the
same side of the wheel half that has the stem slot. There in is the problem
when using a standard angle stem tube that seems too long.
.
.
To remedy the long valve stem issue, all that is required is to drill one 5/16" hole
exactly opposite the existing valve stem hole to exit the other wheel half. This is
very easy to accomplish by using the existing hole as a pilot hole for the location.
You just drill through it and out the other side of the wheel. All that is left to do is
deburr the hole and assemble the wheel halves with the valve stem exiting the
other side of the wheel. This moves the valve stem over, in essence making
it about an inch shorter and solving the problem. We do this mod often for
the 10s & 14s.
.
.
After this small mod is performed the valve stems will have ample clearance
and will no longer hit or rub on the fork. This eliminates the need to bend the
stems and makes adding air when wheel pant is in place much easier.
.
.
As you can see the valve stem with the cap in place is about 3/8" lower than
the sidewall of the tire, and 3/4" away from the fork with the spacer installed.
.
keybank atm locations near me.
.
?.I hope this information will help a few of you guys avoid an issue or two, and
please go have a look at our website once in a while. We continuously
introduce new products and services to enhance these wonderful aircraft and
add to your flying enjoyment, comfort, and safety. Regards all, Allan..
