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Section 9: special bucking bar

Stockmanreef

Well Known Member
I noticed in section 9 that a special buck bar is required. Does anyone else other than Avery sell them? Avery is out of stock. Is there another option to set these rivets? Can a back riveting plate be used some how?

Alternatively, is there anyone out there done with their special bucking bar? I either purchase from you or borrow and send back when I am done with it.

thanks
 
Setting rivets with this bar was really easy.. I wouldn't try to wing it.

Send me a pm... I can lend you mine

Pat
 
That would be the figure 4 on page 09-17 I presume.

I have a noob question then. Bucking bar.... AISI 4140 I suppose, a good toolk steel. I might get a guy in one of the two chapters I go to meetings with who has a machine shop to make me one if Avery doesn't keep them.
 
That would be the figure 4 on page 09-17 I presume.

I have a noob question then. Bucking bar.... AISI 4140 I suppose, a good toolk steel. I might get a guy in one of the two chapters I go to meetings with who has a machine shop to make me one if Avery doesn't keep them.

I have made a few ( and used them) out of any steel I had around. Sand and polish the surface, maybe even scotchbrite wheel. Yes, tool steel is nice, but rivets are pretty soft. If you are building a 14, a 14 guy should probably answer. ;)
 
I also used it to get at the circled rivet in the Flaps. all of these Spar to rib rivets are hard to get at. Made it way easier. Had to sand of a bit of the edge but it was on the "handle" side. Effectively 2 tools in one.
 

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I purchased a 1” square by 12” long piece of mild steel bar from a local metals yard and spend 20 minutes on a grinding wheel shaping it to the dimensions in the plans…..worked perfectly. I re-purposed it as a back riveting plate when riveting the elevator and aileron trailing edges.
 
Did anyone skip the special bucking bar process and only use the MK319BS in the places allowed for in the Elevator bottom skin riveting? I was going to use Cherry Max but they are larger and its too late to countersink/dimple to accept. I am going with only the MK319 on entire bottom elevator aft spar.
 
I bought a 1 foot length of mild steel 1”x 1” bar for about $5 and spent 20 minutes on a bench grinder to make my own bucking bar. Worked great and I used it as a back riveting bar on the trail edges as well.
 
Bars

Home brew bars are awesome. I also tape my heavy tungsten to the home made bar for additional mass. Really helps.
 
Did anyone skip the special bucking bar process and only use the MK319BS in the places allowed for in the Elevator bottom skin riveting? I was going to use Cherry Max but they are larger and its too late to countersink/dimple to accept. I am going with only the MK319 on entire bottom elevator aft spar.

I skipped the special bar and used MK319BS rivets. I filled the holes from the stems prior to painting (epoxy resin or JB Weld works). Results are acceptable, but doing it again, I would invest in the bucking bar - it yields a cleaner result.
 
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