What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Thoughts on transitioning to an RV-9A (long)

Dugaru

Well Known Member
I thought it might be useful to summarize my recent experience transitioning to a new (to me) RV-9A -- if only because I really appreciated finding posts like that when I started looking to buy an RV. Perhaps those building RV-9As might find this interesting also.

Plus I have learned (and continue to learn) HUGE amounts of useful things here, so I thought I would try to contribute for once. :)

My flying background is probably not too different from that of a lot of RV transitioners. I have about 940 hours, and got the instrument rating in 2010. I trained in 150s, 152s, and 172s, flew a great 1974 172M for several years, then bought a 1979 Warrior that I flew for about 8 years. It was a terrific aircraft and we had many adventures together. I sold that when I got the opportunity to partner in a very well equipped Glasair Sportsman, which had been built by the previous owner in the ?two weeks to taxi? program. I got about 35 hours in that, 18 of which came after we converted the airplane to tailwheel. I got the tailwheel endorsement, but would not consider myself an accomplished taildragger operator (yet). The Sportsman experience convinced me that experimentals are a great way to fly. Unfortunately my partner?s move to Texas, in the wake of an unexpected and awesome job offer, forced an amicable airplane divorce, in which he got custody of the Sportsman.

So I launched another airplane search. The more I looked around, the more it seemed like the RV was a good fit for me. After working with Vic Syracuse for a bit, which included him giving me some absolutely crucial advice about specific airplanes I was looking at (I?ll skip the gory details), he convinced me (I think correctly) that the RV-9 was the airplane I needed for my mission, which includes a lot of light IFR travel in the mid-Atlantic. My tailwheel training convinced me that for traveling purposes, it would be nice to reduce the threat to my dispatch rate posed by gusty crosswinds, so the RV-9A seemed like the call. I bought a well-built and well-maintained RV-9A that I found here. It?s 160hp, slider, carbureted, with a CS prop.

So, thoughts on the transition:

1. Transitioning is easy. There?s a reason the insurance only required a 1-hour checkout -- which was quite a distinction from the insurance checkout requirements for the Sportsman! It?s just an easy airplane to fly. If the RV-9A has any vices or bad habits, I haven?t found or heard of them yet. The Sportsman was also easy to fly, but it?s very different in some ways from ?regular? GA aircraft. Just for example, the sink rate at low speeds and power settings can be very alarming. The RV-9A doesn?t seem to be as much of a departure, conceptually, from ?regular? GA aircraft.

2. With that said, it still makes sense to get checked out by a knowledgeable RV instructor. I was very, very fortunate to get hooked up with John Musgrave at Blue Sky Aero (www.blueskyaero.com). In addition to being a skilled and highly experienced CFI generally, and the kind of GA person we all love to meet, John has given a ton of thought to the things that are different about RVs, and how best to teach those differences to transitioning pilots. In a very short time, I got all sorts of info and tips, big and small, about the finer points of operating the RV. (John also has keen insights into how best to teach taildragger skills, so I?m going to follow up with him on that in a Stearman someday just for fun.) There may be RV transition instructors out there that are as good as John, but I?d be stunned if you could find one any better.

3. I don?t have a technical background, but the wing design of the RV-9 seems like something of a modern miracle to me. It?s perfectly happy flying at a huge range of speeds, including quite slowly for an airplane with its top-end performance. Its high-altitude performance appears to be amazing, although I haven?t explored that much yet. Stall habits seem very benign, and you get lots of warning of trouble.

4. It?s unbelievably easy to land. It may even be easier to land than the Warrior (which, as those of you who have flown one will know, is an absurdly easy airplane to land). It?s hard for me to compare the two precisely, because I probably got a little better at landing as a result of my tailwheel training. But wow, the RV-9A makes me look good, and trust me, I?m no natural.

5. It is REALLY FUN TO FLY. The RV grin is a real thing. I think it?s a combination of the terrific view (likely even better in a tip-up!) and the great handling. It also makes people smile when they see it rolling by on the ramp. I swear, as weird as it sounds, this airplane just makes people happy.

6. It is a legitimate traveling airplane if you want it to be. I considered the Warrior to be a training aircraft at heart, but with just enough performance to make mid-Atlantic travel doable, particularly with an autopilot that made it easier to pass the time. But you had to be a real enthusiast to fly it to, say, Florida (or Oshkosh!) from Virginia. There?s something about a 65-knot groundspeed that?s just depressing when you have a long way to go. With the RV-9A, those days are behind me. 

7. Vans has already said everything you need to know. The piece on the Vans website about how the collection of compromises embodied in the RV-9 make it a terrific airplane for a great many pilots seems to be true to me. Once I realized that I didn?t need four seats, and once I realized what the Cherokee gave up to get them, the design philosophy of the RV-9 just seemed so sensible. Using the same engine as the Warrior, I go lots faster and have more fun doing it.

8. Most of the hotly debated questions about the RV-9 are probably in the statistical noise. For example, I think I?d probably also be this happy with a tip-up. I have not flown in an RV-9 with 180hp; all I can say is that the 160hp and CS prop do not leave me longing for more performance. I?m open to the idea that the CS prop is overkill, but I sure do like flying behind it, so I?m glad someone else basically made that decision for me. 

I hope this will be helpful to someone. Thanks again to so many of you for all the assistance so far!
 
Thank you for your post. I go back and forth in my mind about buying an RV. I have a 172 and seem like I'm always lurking on these forums. A buddy of mine has a 4 and another a 6. I have been in the 6 a couple of times and of course it was awesome. I think for the type of flying I do, the 9a would be the right one for me. Again thanks for sharing your experience!
 
Last edited:
Well said. I agree on all points. :D
I would ad only one point .... economy. I have been astounded by the stingy fuel consumption of my IO-320. Most of my cruise time is spent LOP, were I see 6.4 to 7.0 GPH depending on altitude. Even more amazing is when I tally op hours vs fuel consumption for a full year. I am always well below 6.5gph... last year it was 5.9gph over nearly 100 hrs. :D I attribute the economy to four main factors:
1. RVs climb to altitude very quickly, minimizing WO operation
2. Cruising LOP the majority of the time
3. Throttling back for reduced airspeed and pattern entry takes fuel consumption way low. (Slowing down with a fixed pitch prop requires planning ahead, thus more reduced throttle operation.)
4. Residing at a Class D towered field, where taxi distance to three of four runways is 6000ft or more. I average 1.8gph in taxi mode.
 
Doug,

Even though I am building a 14A after starting on a 9A a few years ago, thanks for writing up your experiences. Care to comment a little bit on the nosewheel of the 9A and any perceived issues there since you are coming newly into the model? I am referring to the perhaps overblown fragility of it, and of course all the other comments about most of those issues being attributed to improper technique.

I had chosen to switch to the 14 largely for the improved design but still am a great admirer of the 9. I am not selling my kit, but I would have to say that if I decided I just wanted to buy a flying plane, the 9 would be it.
 
Thank you for your post. I go back and forth in my mind about buying an RV. I have a 172 and seem like I'm always lurking on these forums. A buddy of mine has a 4 and another a 6. I have been in the 6 a couple of times and of course it was awesome. I think for the type of flying I do, the 9a would be the right one for me. Again that's for sharing your experience!

Let me know if you're ever in my neck of the woods (Richmond VA, USA), I'd be happy to give you a ride!
 
Doug,

Even though I am building a 14A after starting on a 9A a few years ago, thanks for writing up your experiences. Care to comment a little bit on the nosewheel of the 9A and any perceived issues there since you are coming newly into the model? I am referring to the perhaps overblown fragility of it, and of course all the other comments about most of those issues being attributed to improper technique.

I had chosen to switch to the 14 largely for the improved design but still am a great admirer of the 9. I am not selling my kit, but I would have to say that if I decided I just wanted to buy a flying plane, the 9 would be it.

Good question. I had concerns about the nosewheel. The Sportsman had started out with a very similar setup and it was no end of hassles - copious shimmy and two trashed wheel pants later, we switched to tailwheel and never looked back. Every time I visited another nosewheel fixed gear Glasair owner I would see a trashed wheel pant somewhere in the hangar. :). I've had no similar issues with the RV, but have paid careful attention to the tire pressure and landing speed. I guess time will tell.
 
Last edited:
Having come from a Cherokee 140 to a recently flying -7A, I am relearning how to taxi at low speeds using differential braking, which was not needed in the Cherokee.

Ensure the nosewheel breakout torque is correct; it makes a big difference.
 
... Care to comment a little bit on the nosewheel of the 9A and any perceived issues there since you are coming newly into the model? I am referring to the perhaps overblown fragility of it, and of course all the other comments about most of those issues being attributed to improper technique. ...

I should add on the nosewheel issue that it's interesting to compare the Vans design to the Warrior's. My Warrior nosegear didn't require a lot of maintenance, but many did -- including recharging of the strut, re-chroming of the strut, and rebuilding of the shimmy damper. The latter two were expensive. Plus the whole setup likely was heavier than the Vans nosegear. So even though it's fair to say, I think, that the RV-9A nosegear is a *relative* weak point in Vans design, so too is the Warrior's -- and I'm certainly not sure Vans is the clear loser.

Also the turning radius of the RV-9A is tailwheel-level awesome. :)
 
Well said. I agree on all points. :D
I would ad only one point .... economy. I have been astounded by the stingy fuel consumption of my IO-320. ....

You'd think I would have mentioned this in my 8000-word essay, because I've noticed it too. For me, the fuel burns are familiar, since I spent a lot of time behind another carbureted O-320 (in the Piper). But the RV just gets much better MPG. It's probably saving me $30 in gas compared to the Warrior each time I fly to and from PA, my standard mission.
 
Having come from a Cherokee 140 to a recently flying -7A, I am relearning how to taxi at low speeds using differential braking, which was not needed in the Cherokee.

Ensure the nosewheel breakout torque is correct; it makes a big difference.
Yes I'm keeping a close eye on the breakout force as well.

I found the differential braking to be not so bad on the RV after the Sportsman (especially as a taildragger). That big tail on the Sportsman was constantly weather-vaning and trying to drag you in the wrong direction! On windy days you sometimes had to ride the brake the whole time just to go straight....
 
Great posting - thanks for taking the time, 5 years into the build and you don't really know if you made the right choice. I'm the only 9 at our airfield- surrounded by 7's. Excellent.

DSCN0261_zpsp8jftpdx.jpg.html
 
couldn't resist!

ok, this is not just a '9' thing, but part of the efficiency of flying around here.....takeoff and climb takes only a few minutes, leveled out at economy cruise gets you up and down the valley in 10 minutes....then approaching a towered field, you really don't want to keep doing 140 kts, or they slot you in between learjets and B737's! ...much smarter to throttle waaaaay back, and start your descent further out at 100-110 kts......so half the flight is at very low power settings!...thus my fuel bill of $306 last year. ( don't ask!)

Great posting - thanks for taking the time, 5 years into the build and you don't really know if you made the right choice. I'm the only 9 at our airfield- surrounded by 7's. Excellent.

DSCN0261_zpsp8jftpdx.jpg.html
Patricks' Kiwi slider here....not mine! a beauty!
DSCN0261_zpsp8jftpdx.jpg
 
Last edited:
Very nice summary Doug

Most of the hotly debated questions about the RV-9 are probably in the statistical noise.

Very nice summary Doug. Thank you. You do have more experience then the average starting RVator. I received my pilot certificate after I had the airworthiness slip. I was looking for posts like yours for years.

BC%20-%201.jpg



Serpentine%20Hot%20Springs%20AK%20-%201.jpg
 
A slightly different perspective, as my RV-9A is fixed pitch and my RV-8 has a constant speed prop.

With the fixed pitch prop, the RV-9A does not really like to slow down / come down, as my old instrument instructor used to say. And slips don't increase the descent rate all that much.
* Full flap, power off approaches are customary in the -9A, whereas the -8 frequently will want power to keep the glide path reasonable, especially if the tower extends the downwind leg;
* The -9A really likes to float because there's no prop drag to slow it down. If you do the old trick of increasing airspeed to make it easier to handle a crosswind, you'll just end up floating longer and having a longer exposure to crosswinds and gusts in the flare. (10 knots extra speed doubles the time floating in the flare). Therefor I tend to fly the same approach speed, regardless of crosswinds;
* The -9A is a little bit pitch sensitive in the flare, just like a bunch of other planes. The lack of friction in the elevator controls is nice, though;
* For no airspeed landings (a nice training exercise), it's not as easy to judge airspeed in the -9 as in the -8. So to keep from overspeeding the flaps, no airspeed means landing flaps up. No such problems with the -8;
* The -9A is a real pain in the *** to fly cross country in thermals such as in west Texas in the summer. I find that I'm constantly adjusting power.

Given the choice, I would very obviously go with a constant speed prop on the -9A, or any of the RVs, for that matter. (My -4 had a wood prop which I've still got and would love to sell, BTW.) But I bought my RV-9A because of the avionics, which is another story. But if anybody has a good constant speed prop for an O-320 at a fire sale price...

On another topic, I rarely need the brakes for steering on the ground. The rudder is usually enough.

Ed
 
Good points.

I'm not really able to judge the pros/cons of the cs prop, having not flown a fixed pitch RV. But what you say makes a lot of sense. I suspect mine would indeed be harder to slow down with a fixed pitch.

I should have mentioned the flap issue - it is absolutely possible to overspeed the flaps. This was of course technically doable on the Warrior, but not really likely as a practical matter given lower speeds and the manual flap handle. If you were going too fast, it was noticeably harder to pull the handle.

Excellent point about making "no airspeed" landings "no flap" landings.

Pitch sensitivity in the flare seems almost exactly like the Warrior, but by Cherokee standards the Warrior wing was indeed a bit floaty and sensitive to pitch, which would be exacerbated of course by excessive landing speed. Ask me how I know... :)

I'm going to concentrate on using the brakes less while taxiiing.

A slightly different perspective, as my RV-9A is fixed pitch and my RV-8 has a constant speed prop.

With the fixed pitch prop, the RV-9A does not really like to slow down / come down, as my old instrument instructor used to say. And slips don't increase the descent rate all that much.
* Full flap, power off approaches are customary in the -9A, whereas the -8 frequently will want power to keep the glide path reasonable, especially if the tower extends the downwind leg;
* The -9A really likes to float because there's no prop drag to slow it down. If you do the old trick of increasing airspeed to make it easier to handle a crosswind, you'll just end up floating longer and having a longer exposure to crosswinds and gusts in the flare. (10 knots extra speed doubles the time floating in the flare). Therefor I tend to fly the same approach speed, regardless of crosswinds;
* The -9A is a little bit pitch sensitive in the flare, just like a bunch of other planes. The lack of friction in the elevator controls is nice, though;
* For no airspeed landings (a nice training exercise), it's not as easy to judge airspeed in the -9 as in the -8. So to keep from overspeeding the flaps, no airspeed means landing flaps up. No such problems with the -8;
* The -9A is a real pain in the *** to fly cross country in thermals such as in west Texas in the summer. I find that I'm constantly adjusting power.

Given the choice, I would very obviously go with a constant speed prop on the -9A, or any of the RVs, for that matter. (My -4 had a wood prop which I've still got and would love to sell, BTW.) But I bought my RV-9A because of the avionics, which is another story. But if anybody has a good constant speed prop for an O-320 at a fire sale price...

On another topic, I rarely need the brakes for steering on the ground. The rudder is usually enough.

Ed
 
Brakes and climb

On my 6a, I could not turn without brakes. Maybe the fish scale was slightly off when I torqued it.

My 180hp CS -9 is a climber. Pattern altitude before the end of the runway is no problem and exactly what I was looking for. The CS does its job slowing down and I never have a floating issue. My -9 isn't as clean as others as I do not have the issue of exceeding 180mph tas in normal flight. Probably due to the oversized tires and all the antennas in the slipstream. Who knows.

Would I do 180hp and CS prop over again in a -9? Yep.
I came from a Maule STOL background so your mission may differ.

If you are a newbie and have trouble understanding how to control your TAS especially in a dive, please do not put anything over 135hp in your craft. For the rest of you -9 experimential adventurers, your going to love the ride!
 
A common cause of pilots being challenged by a fixed pitch prop RV-9 (or any of the RV models for that matter) in slowing it down and/or excessive float on landing is engine idle speed.
With the high speed range that RV's have, we use a rather course pitch for a fixed pitch prop. Any amount of excess RPM can produce quite a bit of residual thrust.
It is hard to get the composite fixed props real slow because of their low inertia, but the metal props can be idled very slow. I keep my O-360 RV-6A set at about 600RPM..... makes a noticeable difference.
 
Nice write up Doug. Thank you.
Im building a 9Acurrently, just started the fuselage assy. Gives me confidence every time I read a post like yours that I made the right decision. If your ever up in the Martinsburg WV area Id love a ride. Maybe I could make it to Richmond, Im not that far from you. Ive been in a -8 and -7 but still haven't been in a 9.
Thanks, Phil
 
good discussion. the most important task is to select the correct plane for the mission. if you get this right you will maximize the enjoyment.
 
A common cause of pilots being challenged by a fixed pitch prop RV-9 (or any of the RV models for that matter) in slowing it down and/or excessive float on landing is engine idle speed.
With the high speed range that RV's have, we use a rather course pitch for a fixed pitch prop. Any amount of excess RPM can produce quite a bit of residual thrust.
It is hard to get the composite fixed props real slow because of their low inertia, but the metal props can be idled very slow. I keep my O-360 RV-6A set at about 600RPM..... makes a noticeable difference.
Just as a data point of interest, my IO-340 with Catto 3-blade composite fixed pitch prop idles at 650 RPM smooth as silk.

I am very happy with this fixed pitch on my 9A. I believe the Catto prop performance is close enough to a constant speed that I am willing to deal with a few operational differences for the little sacrifice I make for using a fixed pitch prop. Reality is there are also other advantages to a fixed pitch prop (see the last sentence below). Yes, it is very true that speed management on the slow end of the spectrum does indeed take some cerebral effort. You constant speed prop guys do have an advantage on slowing down your planes. Pull the knob and slam on the brakes. Us fixed pitch guys have to pull to idle and pitch up if we are going to need to bleed off speed. A noticeable difference in technique for sure that does take more time for the plane to change its position and movement through the cosmos. But I would not really trade my Catto for a constant speed given the setup I have and the mission(s) I fly. There are real world trade offs for having the constant speed that do not necessarily offset the added weight, complexity, maintenance needs, cost associated with them.

My .02

Live Long and Prosper!
 
Some of us who have been reading this thread and seeing references Doug has made to his Sportsman experience may have come away with a fairly negative impression of the Sportsman. As a Sportsman builder I found Doug's comments raised my eyebrows, both because they run counter to what I had learned, and because I wanted to inform myself as best as possible to ensure the safe operation of our aircraft. I want no surprises in the operation of our Sportsman, so I needed to follow up on Doug's comments.

To that end, I thought I'd float some of Dougs comments past the Glastar/Sportsman builder/owner community for a bit of a cross-check. The responses from that community have been interesting to read. I'll provide a summary of them here in hopes of bringing some balance to the discussion.

1) the RV9A nose gear is very, very similar to the Glastar nose gear (even made by the same manufacturer). They sport the same size of nose wheel. The Sportsman, on the other hand, is a more robust design, running a 5.00x5 nose wheel. The nose gear designs of the RV10 and RV14 are similarly more robust than those of the RV6/7/8/9, and look very similar to that of the Sportsman.

2) three key elements are required to ensure proper operation of the nose gear:
- proper tire inflation
- proper castoring break-out tension, set by torquing the nut that controls "squish" of the Belleville washer stack
- proper pilot technique - use the elevator to keep nosewheel loads light

So far, it would appear those 'in the know' in the Glastar and Sportsman world would provide a new pilot/owner with advice very similar to that which has been given to new pilot/owners of RV's on this forum.

With respect to trashed wheel pants, that comment may be based on a very small sample size. Most of us have trashed a wheel pant at one time or another (I had the opportunity to watch the great Vlad trash his 9A pants while going "off roading" on an ice runway), so we know wheel pants can and often do take a beating, regardless of the airframe to which they are attached. So far I haven't seen any owner/builder responses that support the comment that destroyed Sportsman nose wheel pants are the norm. I have seen confirmation that, unless the owner/operator failed to heed the advice given above, advice that's common to both RV and Glastar/Sportsman types, nose wheel shimmy can occur. Again, I have to emphasize this advice on the prevention of shimmy is common to both Glasair and Vans products. As an operator of a Grumman AA5-series aircraft, I can confirm this certificated aircraft type, with its castoring nose wheel, is subject to similar complaints of shimmy and damaged wheel pants when owners/operators don't follow the advice given above to prevent shimmy and its accompanying wheel pant damage.

A search of Doug's posts over on the Glastar/Sportsman site revealed a post about repairing his Sportsman nose wheel pant, including an admission the front tire pressure had been low at the time the shimmy occurred. In that post he also mentioned talking to a Glasair pilot (yeah, the low-wing go-fast plastic airplane) who had experienced nose wheel shimmy and had a wheel pant come completely off. Not a Sportsman, but still, a shimmy issue that led to wheel pant damage. Doug also posted that his aircraft had destroyed two wheel pants during the period of his ownership and that, when it was purchased, its nose wheel pant was not installed and that a new wheel pant was included in the sale, giving evidence the previous owner had likewise had challenges with nose wheel shimmy. This sounds like a bad experience indeed, and likely would have been a good opportunity to get an experienced eye to look at the airplane and suggest remedial actions. With any type of aircraft, if your example of the type doesn't perform the same way as the majority of that type, it's always a good idea to investigate and find what it is that makes your airplane different.

I'd like to emphasize that my post isn't about stirring up controversy, but rather providing additional information to add balance to the conversation. Most importantly, it's about sharing information so we can all operate our aircraft more safely. Doug may have had a bad experience - it would be great if, by sharing helpful tips and tricks, we could avoid anybody else having similar challenges. After all, it's all about education and enjoyment!
 
Nice write up Doug. Thank you.
Im building a 9Acurrently, just started the fuselage assy. Gives me confidence every time I read a post like yours that I made the right decision. If your ever up in the Martinsburg WV area Id love a ride. Maybe I could make it to Richmond, Im not that far from you. Ive been in a -8 and -7 but still haven't been in a 9.
Thanks, Phil

Would be happy to give you a ride if you make it here, and I'll let you know if I get up your way. I do get to WV occasionally so we'll see!
 
I really liked the Sportsman, and it was a superb aircraft for soft/short grass strips. But I assure you it was shimmy, not offroading, that caused my wheelpant problems. :)

Also, my second wheelpant got destroyed by shimmy after the tire pressure and breakout force were confirmed to be correct. I don't recall anything abnormal about the landing.

N=1, so my shimmy issues could well have been esoteric to my Sportsman (nosegear geometry perhaps). But I also think it's fair to say, having read the Sportsman forums, that the nosewheel is not particularly tolerant of errors.

Some of us who have been reading this thread and seeing references Doug has made to his Sportsman experience may have come away with a fairly negative impression of the Sportsman. As a Sportsman builder I found Doug's comments raised my eyebrows, both because they run counter to what I had learned, and because I wanted to inform myself as best as possible to ensure the safe operation of our aircraft. I want no surprises in the operation of our Sportsman, so I needed to follow up on Doug's comments.

To that end, I thought I'd float some of Dougs comments past the Glastar/Sportsman builder/owner community for a bit of a cross-check. The responses from that community have been interesting to read. I'll provide a summary of them here in hopes of bringing some balance to the discussion.

1) the RV9A nose gear is very, very similar to the Glastar nose gear (even made by the same manufacturer). They sport the same size of nose wheel. The Sportsman, on the other hand, is a more robust design, running a 5.00x5 nose wheel. The nose gear designs of the RV10 and RV14 are similarly more robust than those of the RV6/7/8/9, and look very similar to that of the Sportsman.

2) three key elements are required to ensure proper operation of the nose gear:
- proper tire inflation
- proper castoring break-out tension, set by torquing the nut that controls "squish" of the Belleville washer stack
- proper pilot technique - use the elevator to keep nosewheel loads light

So far, it would appear those 'in the know' in the Glastar and Sportsman world would provide a new pilot/owner with advice very similar to that which has been given to new pilot/owners of RV's on this forum.

With respect to trashed wheel pants, that comment may be based on a very small sample size. Most of us have trashed a wheel pant at one time or another (I had the opportunity to watch the great Vlad trash his 9A pants while going "off roading" on an ice runway), so we know wheel pants can and often do take a beating, regardless of the airframe to which they are attached. So far I haven't seen any owner/builder responses that support the comment that destroyed Sportsman nose wheel pants are the norm. I have seen confirmation that, unless the owner/operator failed to heed the advice given above, advice that's common to both RV and Glastar/Sportsman types, nose wheel shimmy can occur. Again, I have to emphasize this advice on the prevention of shimmy is common to both Glasair and Vans products. As an operator of a Grumman AA5-series aircraft, I can confirm this certificated aircraft type, with its castoring nose wheel, is subject to similar complaints of shimmy and damaged wheel pants when owners/operators don't follow the advice given above to prevent shimmy and its accompanying wheel pant damage.

A search of Doug's posts over on the Glastar/Sportsman site revealed a post about repairing his Sportsman nose wheel pant, including an admission the front tire pressure had been low at the time the shimmy occurred. In that post he also mentioned talking to a Glasair pilot (yeah, the low-wing go-fast plastic airplane) who had experienced nose wheel shimmy and had a wheel pant come completely off. Not a Sportsman, but still, a shimmy issue that led to wheel pant damage. Doug also posted that his aircraft had destroyed two wheel pants during the period of his ownership and that, when it was purchased, its nose wheel pant was not installed and that a new wheel pant was included in the sale, giving evidence the previous owner had likewise had challenges with nose wheel shimmy. This sounds like a bad experience indeed, and likely would have been a good opportunity to get an experienced eye to look at the airplane and suggest remedial actions. With any type of aircraft, if your example of the type doesn't perform the same way as the majority of that type, it's always a good idea to investigate and find what it is that makes your airplane different.

I'd like to emphasize that my post isn't about stirring up controversy, but rather providing additional information to add balance to the conversation. Most importantly, it's about sharing information so we can all operate our aircraft more safely. Doug may have had a bad experience - it would be great if, by sharing helpful tips and tricks, we could avoid anybody else having similar challenges. After all, it's all about education and enjoyment!
 
Doug - no castering nose wheel is tolerant of errors. That's really my point. Even the certificated Grumman AA5-series is subject to the same challenges, just as your 9A is. My point was to highlight this commonality with castering nose wheels.

Also, one point did come up in discussion that's germane to the RV10 and RV14 configuration, as well as the Sportsman. These aircraft have rubber compression donuts which form part of the nose gear suspension. One Sportsman builder indicated he damaged a wheel pant because he had let his rubber suspension donuts get too soft, thus the caster angle was inadequate. This same issue could, I believe, manifest itself in the RV10 and RV14 fleet, so this is one area to keep an eye on. Who knows, maybe that was a contributing factor to Doug's challenges.

Again, it's this exchange of information which I hope will help others avoid such issues with their aircraft.
 
I swear, as weird as it sounds, this airplane just makes people happy.

It helps that the airplane is happy, it whistles while it flies! I know Scott is home when I hear the whistle overhead.

It is a legitimate traveling airplane if you want it to be. 

It sure is, all the way to Dominica. Next Carribbean trip is coming up fast...

I?m open to the idea that the CS prop is overkill, but I sure do like flying behind it, so I?m glad someone else basically made that decision for me. 

I'm not - you can pry my CS prop from my cold, dead, hands!
 
I really enjoyed a trip last year to the Dominican Republic (albeit by A36, but no experience is perfect). I'd love to go back. I think it's really an undiscovered gem for GA. Goodness knows the locals and gov't encouraged us to visit and treated us like kings!

It sure is, all the way to Dominica. Next Carribbean trip is coming up fast...
 
I also love reading posts like this. I am knee deep in the fuselage construction of my 9A right now. Just finished the center section and the next step is to join the center and tail section. Flying mine is probably years away and that makes me a little sad. I don't mind putting in the hours it takes to build it because it's so gratifying taking a bunch of little parts and creating something really cool. I constantly hear how great these things fly and boy does it make me jealous. I just can't wait!!!!!
 
And slips don't increase the descent rate all that much.

A common cause of pilots being challenged by a fixed pitch prop RV-9 (or any of the RV models for that matter) in slowing it down and/or excessive float on landing is engine idle speed.

After 400 hours on my RV-9, I've found the following:

1. Slips do indeed work very well in my opinion. 1.5 Vso full flaps and full fwd slip I get substantial increase in my sink rate. Use them frequently.

2. With fixed pitch I've never found slowing down that much of a problem. I just make sure I'm 90-100 kts on downwind and its entirely a non-issue. Yes, having a constant speed prop would allow me to delay that slowdown until later, but not worth the added cost/complexity to me.

3. To minimize float, idle RPM does matter, like Scott mentioned above. However, even with a light Catto prop, it's not hard to set the idle speed to 600. It doesn't really like to idle there unloaded but, while loaded in the air, the RPM never drops below 700 anyway. For ground ops, I just add a bit of throttle to keep it wherever the engine likes it.

4. Approach speed is also critical to minimizing float and bounce on landing. I really enjoyed flying with Mike Seager in transition. Having said that, my opinion is that his approach speed for final--listed on his RV-9 pattern diagram--of 70-75mph (or 60-65kts) is a bit too fast. If I'm anywhere near 65kts I'm going to float forever and then when I do touch down, if I haven't bled off all the excess speed, the extra long gear legs on the -9 are going to serve as very nice springs and keep me bouncing down the runway. (Not sure if the 9A main gear legs are as long, so maybe the excess speed might not matter as much on a 9A.) However, if I land at 1.3-1.4 Vso (which for me is 52-56kts solo, 55-60 kts gross) then I touch down with minimal float and minimal bounce. Moreover, on the -9, relative to the short-wing RV's, the power-off sink rate is not at all unmanageable. The big HS and elevators leave you with plenty of ability to arrest the sink rate.

Anyway, glad that the OP is liking his 9A. Welcome to the club! Everyday I fly mine I'm thankful I made the choice I did.
 
Last edited:
4. Approach speed is also critical to minimizing float and bounce on landing. I really enjoyed flying with Mike Seager in transition. Having said that, my opinion is that his approach speed for final--listed on his RV-9 pattern diagram--of 70-75mph (or 60-65kts) is a bit too fast. If I'm anywhere near 65kts I'm going to float forever and then when I do touch down, if I haven't bled off all the excess speed, the extra long gear legs on the -9 are going to serve as very nice springs and keep me bouncing down the runway. (Not sure if the 9A main gear legs are as long, so maybe the excess speed might not matter as much on a 9A.) However, if I land at 1.3-1.4 Vso (which for me is 52-56kts solo, 55-60 kts gross) then I touch down with minimal float and minimal bounce. Moreover, on the -9, relative to the short-wing RV's, the power-off sink rate is not at all unmanageable. The big HS and elevators leave you with plenty of ability to arrest the sink rate.

I think what Mike teaches is for preparing you to go home and safely fly the airplane by your self. As you develop a much higher level of proficiency (his training is good, but your skills should be much better once you have a bunch more flight time in it) it would be normal to expect someone to be able to make approaches at a slower speed.
 
2) three key elements are required to ensure proper operation of the nose gear:
- proper tire inflation
- proper castoring break-out tension, set by torquing the nut that controls "squish" of the Belleville washer stack
- proper pilot technique - use the elevator to keep nosewheel loads light

I fully agree, but thought I would mention that over inflation of the nose tire can be nearly as detrimental as under inflation.
Over inflation reduces the footprint / contact area of the tire on the ground, making it much more susceptible to shimmy (lateral / steering - not up and down...) The generic term "nose wheel shimmy" is used here often but the two directions possible are caused by two totally different dynamics.
 
After 400 hours on my RV-9, I've found the following:

1. Slips do indeed work very well in my opinion. 1.5 Vso full flaps and full fwd slip I get substantial increase in my sink rate. Use them frequently.

2. With fixed pitch I've never found slowing down that much of a problem. I just make sure I'm 90-100 kts on downwind and its entirely a non-issue. Yes, having a constant speed prop would allow me to delay that slowdown until later, but not worth the added cost/complexity to me.

3. To minimize float, idle RPM does matter, like Scott mentioned above. However, even with a light Catto prop, it's not hard to set the idle speed to 600. It doesn't really like to idle there unloaded but, while loaded in the air, the RPM never drops below 700 anyway. For ground ops, I just add a bit of throttle to keep it wherever the engine likes it.

4. Approach speed is also critical to minimizing float and bounce on landing. I really enjoyed flying with Mike Seager in transition. Having said that, my opinion is that his approach speed for final--listed on his RV-9 pattern diagram--of 70-75mph (or 60-65kts) is a bit too fast. If I'm anywhere near 65kts I'm going to float forever and then when I do touch down, if I haven't bled off all the excess speed, the extra long gear legs on the -9 are going to serve as very nice springs and keep me bouncing down the runway. (Not sure if the 9A main gear legs are as long, so maybe the excess speed might not matter as much on a 9A.) However, if I land at 1.3-1.4 Vso (which for me is 52-56kts solo, 55-60 kts gross) then I touch down with minimal float and minimal bounce. Moreover, on the -9, relative to the short-wing RV's, the power-off sink rate is not at all unmanageable. The big HS and elevators leave you with plenty of ability to arrest the sink rate.

Anyway, glad that the OP is liking his 9A. Welcome to the club! Everyday I fly mine I'm thankful I made the choice I did.

I have to agree with all of the above, but also with rvbuilder2002's comments regarding experience.

My -9 (your experience my vary) climbs pretty good with a Catto FP cruise prop. Last weekend I saw 1900 FPM climb rates at about 110 knots. Granted I was alone with full tanks and it was probably 50*F OAT's, and I have a 180+ HP engine. I understand the desire to have a CS prop but it really isn't necessary. (If any of you have a composite CS Prop that you want to give me, I'm all ears!)

The speeds Steve mentioned above work great for me but I keep it simpler. 55 knots when light and 60 knots when heavy. Full flaps for all landings and crosswind conditions. I also put in all the flaps abeam the touchdown point and trim for my final approach speed. If I do it right, I never touch the power once I take it all out abeam the touchdown point. That is something you CS prop people can't really do. Well you can but you had better be really close to the runway because of your airbrake.

Slips are an interesting thing. With full flaps and no power I come down at around 450 FPM. In a full deflection slip at 60 knots, that may increase 200 FPM.

The other option is to slow the plane down and let it develop a good sink rate. Then either lower the nose or add power, depending on your technique and land.

I came out of a 65 HP pre-war T-Craft into the RV-9 and there was no "transition" issues for me. I knew I was flying a slippery plane and planned accordingly. The -9 is probably one of the best taildraggers I have ever flown, much better than the short wing RV's and I am not afraid to take it out on very windy days.

What a great design and that wing is amazing! I have flown with my friend's in Cub's and Champs, burning less fuel than they do and I can push it right on up to 175 knots, if I feel like pumping fuel through it.

Just stunning!
 
Last edited:
I think what Mike teaches is for preparing you to go home and safely fly the airplane by your self. As you develop a much higher level of proficiency (his training is good, but your skills should be much better once you have a bunch more flight time in it) it would be normal to expect someone to be able to make approaches at a slower speed.

I absolutely agree, Scott. I've always understood that to be the likely reason. That said, I don't remember him telling me that slowing down might be a long-term goal. During the first 100 hours or so I was constantly trying to land at 60-65kts and wondering why I could never make a nice landing. In my experience, 5 kts fast makes a huge difference in the RV-9, perhaps because of its long wing and airfoil. My guess is that it may not make as much of a difference in the RV-7 that I trained with Mike in.

Also agree with Bill's approach to patterns above. Typical is to pull all power and go full flaps abeam the numbers and try to make it without having to add any power.
 
Last edited:
Shimmy

I solved the nose wheel shimmy problem by getting the AntiSplat nose wheel axel treatment. With the solid axel the wheel spins free as a bike wheel, hence no more shimmy problems.
Before I did that I was constantly working on the shimmy problem.
One thing I found was that mud in the main gear wheel pants could cause enough imbalance due to resistance to create nose wheel shimmy.
I haven't heard of others finding that, but it was true in my case.
Jim Frisbie
-9A. 600 hrs
 
...
Also agree with Bill's approach to patterns above. Typical is to pull all power and go full flaps abeam the numbers and try to make it without having to add any power.

One additional trick is to use the wingtip to draw a line down the center of the runway. This will give you proper spacing.
 
Iam new in my 9A at 9 hours in the last 5 months ( WX been down right rainy here in the northwest) (3 days it didn't rain in oct) Well this week with my test safety pilot I did phase one numbers of Vso,Vx & Vy. Dynon Skyview 10" indicated 49 smph for Vso and 82 smph for Vx and 128 Vy. I have the CATTO 3 blade prop. With the Catto prop and Vetterman mufflers it's one quiet 9A. I keep forgetting to turn on my Bose 10 headset. Io320 d1a and it's pretty smooth compared to the two blade RV9A S that I have flown in. Forgot to mention I also have classic aero sound proofing panels in floor. Now I found if I lower my rpms to 1500 3 miles from the airport at traffic pattern altitude,that when I turn my 45 to downwind iam very close to my 100 mph and apply 15 flaps when iam opposite the numbers ( holding pattern altitude) I drop to 1300 rpms and full flaps gives me a safety cushion on altitude down to short final at 75 mph then power off. Now I want to refine that because I think 65 mph is better on the short final. I like a stabilized approach speed just like my IFR approach from the outer marker. I have the anti- splat nose wheel strut spring and have not experienced and shimmy. Do you have a rpm range that works best for you in your approach/landing? Iam really enjoying all the posts so far on the 9A. I have flown pipers and Cessna for 43 years and this Rv is the most fun I have had in a plane. I wish I would have built the tip up rather than the slider. Pro and cons here for different parts of the country. Recently I had to find the ( good- to- date ) for the battery of my remote elt switch for my log book. Well I mounted that switch pretty close to the top of the panel, what-a-bear to get to. (Tip-up model would be VERY helpful.) Then I tested my elt in the "G" force test and it failed, static discharge caused failure,stay away from storm clouds. So now I we install a static suppressor in line on the antenna. Why do I mention the ELT? I installed it behind the baggage bulkhead. Out of site yes,easy to work on ,nope. Three on my RV buddies placed theirs behind the pilots seat with a inside antenna. I may sometimes just do that. ELT battery had to be replaced too. (121.5/406). Don't by your ELT early in your build. Wait til 6 months before your fly time. Mine is a ACK ELT and very happy with the service and return after that failure on the static discharge problem.

Cheers
Ron in Oregon
 
Back
Top