stick wire terminals or connections

Help! I've searched but can't find any good photos or drawings of how to connect the wires from my two Infinity grips to the wires going forward. I have a couple of terminal blocks but am looking for a better idea.

I am planning on running the cables directly out the bottom of the sticks and I have 6 functions I need to connect.

Thanks,

I used a screw terminal strip under the seat area, ran all my airframe items to there, and then the stick wiring to the other side of the strip.

If I ever need to remove the stick, just remove the screws and wires are free.

Looks a lot like the photo below.

Infinity Wiring

I ran wires from both sticks to the Infinity relay card. Cut holes facing forward at the stick base for wire exits - worked well.

I initially planned to use all the various stick switches, but eventually didn't want the risk of inadvertant fat fingering. Trim coolie switch, front c/p flaps and red trigger PTT is all I use. Since I regularly fly my 3 grandsons (13, 11 and 7) I didn't hook up the rear c/p flap switch - didn't feel anything good could come from 160 Kt inadvertant flap extension.

I will eventually redo the PTT from the red trigger switch. It's way too easy to activate - especially pulling to hold the nose up after landing (-8A).

Paul,

I used what Mike used.
Is on my website.

Put all under Pilot seat.
Make sure you have plenty of Co-pilot
wire to do that.

Call if you need too.

There is a how-to article describing an alternative approach using two mated d-sub connectors on Bob Knuckolls' Aeroelectric Connection website. I would post a link, but the server is down for service temporarily. Definitely worth checking out.

erich

My plan is to use a DB25 connector. Cheaply available from Radio Shack. Although, I'm considering a better quality pin than the ones that come with the connector....

erich weaver said:

There is a how-to article describing an alternative approach using two mated d-sub connectors on Bob Knuckolls' Aeroelectric Connection website. I would post a link, but the server is down for service temporarily. Definitely worth checking out.

erich

Click to expand...

I'm getting ready to wire mine and I am planning on using DB connectors.

I've had some bad experiences with terminal strips in a previous life and prefer not to install them in my aircraft. Although there are many installed in flying aircraft.

bob

Connectors

I used DB connectors with the good pins from Stein. Makes the second stick removal a lot easier by using a quick-discsconnect pull pin and the DB connectors.

wiring diagram.

For an example just to help you wrap your head around the task, here's the wiring diagram I made for the junction where the control columns are connected to the rest of my system. The diagram itself is probably not much use outside of illustrating the nature of the task since it references wiring runs that are specific to my panel and installation.

When tackling wiring tasks, I began with pencil and graph paper, committing to a turbocad drawing when I was done with most of the erasing. The actual task of wiring was always done by simply doing what on the diagram.

Notes:
- Like others I used the infinity relay board for trim (and smoke).
- Everything in the diagram is located below the pax seat.
- I used DB connectors for most of the wiring from panel and grips, and I also used a molex for thicker gauge voltage lines to the relays.
- (not shown) For flaps, I used the vans flap relay board, actually made by AFS, since it supports multiple flap switches without negative consequence.
- (not shown) I added a switch in the panel that allows me to disable some pax grip's functions (specifically trim, smoke, flap). This is easily done by terminating the relevant pax ground wires through a switch.

D-sub pins and heat shrink

FredMagare said:

My plan is to use a DB25 connector. Cheaply available from Radio Shack. Although, I'm considering a better quality pin than the ones that come with the connector....

Click to expand...

If you use a DB connector you won't be able to pull the stick grip and it's dangling wires out through the weldment.

I have planned the AeroElectric suggestion of individual DB connector pins/sockets with a piece of heat shrink holding them together and insulating them. Use the good machined pins/sockets from Stein.

Running all of the wires through a vinyl tube helps make the cable flexible and wear resistant. A single Adel clamp can hold the end of the vinyl tube against a seat rib.

Do it this way and the stick can easily be removed for maintenance and the stick grip can also be removed.

Gill,

Any photos? This sounds like a viable option for what I want to do.

Thanks

az_gila said:

If you use a DB connector you won't be able to pull the stick grip and it's dangling wires out through the weldment.

I have planned the AeroElectric suggestion of individual DB connector pins/sockets with a piece of heat shrink holding them together and insulating them. Use the good machined pins/sockets from Stein.

Click to expand...

I think that's a less than stellar suggestion from AeroElectric. I know I can remove pins from a dsub way faster than I could cut that many heat shrinks off. And I can do it without slicing my finger open 30 times. There is really no contest here in terms of easy, quick, and less bloody. I think the heat-shrink/pin idea is good when you only have a couple small wires to splice and a bulky connector of some sort doesn't make sense. I did that a few times myself. But for a big junction like the 17 wires in this instance, a dsub is completely practical. Anyway, to each his own. I suggestion you try both methods. Removing and inserting pins into a dsub is a task that most builders will inevitably be expert at.

dhall_polo said:

I think that's a less than stellar suggestion from AeroElectric. I know I can remove pins from a dsub way faster than I could cut that many heat shrinks off. And I can do it without slicing my finger open 30 times. There is really no contest here in terms of easy, quick, and less bloody. I think the heat-shrink/pin idea is good when you only have a couple small wires to splice and a bulky connector of some sort doesn't make sense. I did that a few times myself. But for a big junction like the 17 wires in this instance, a dsub is completely practical. Anyway, to each his own. I suggestion you try both methods. Removing and inserting pins into a dsub is a task that most builders will inevitably be expert at.

Click to expand...

I only have 7 wires in my bundle so it is easier in my case. 17 wires is a big bundle.

However there is another real advantage - testing.

I will be able to hook up the seven D-sub pin/sockets connections and insulate with masking tape multiple times for the avionics testing period. This can even be done with just the stick grip and no weldments involved. A full D-sub connector commits you somewhat while testing and changing.

I don't really see the final heatshrink connections ever being removed, but if I have to it will be relatively easy and I can take care not to shed too much blood...