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Tip: Oil Door with no Outside latch
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fstringham7a
Well Known Member
RE:Amazing...
Steve
Beautiful job inside and outside of the cowl.......can't wait to see the rest of the aircraft. Don't ya just love inooooovation
Frank @ 1L8... RV7A .....last 992 details of which 900 are FG
Steve
Beautiful job inside and outside of the cowl.......can't wait to see the rest of the aircraft. Don't ya just love inooooovation
Frank @ 1L8... RV7A .....last 992 details of which 900 are FG
Oil Door
Steve,
Is that the Lancair setup or did you make it up yourself? If yours, where did you get the pull cable and how did you attach it to the end of the latch pin? I have the same latch but the end is closed at the cable attach point. Beautiful setup.
Mike H 9A/8A
Steve,
Is that the Lancair setup or did you make it up yourself? If yours, where did you get the pull cable and how did you attach it to the end of the latch pin? I have the same latch but the end is closed at the cable attach point. Beautiful setup.
Mike H 9A/8A
weekendflyboy
Active Member
Oil door hinge and latch
Steve very nice installation job and finish.
We are currently working on a hidden latch to go with our hidden hinge also. If anyone is interested in the hidden latch, send me a email and I will let you know when they are ready to ship.
The hidden oil door hinge is located at:
www.justrvparts.com
Steve very nice installation job and finish.
We are currently working on a hidden latch to go with our hidden hinge also. If anyone is interested in the hidden latch, send me a email and I will let you know when they are ready to ship.
The hidden oil door hinge is located at:
www.justrvparts.com
gmcjetpilot
Well Known Member
Nice work!
Oh too much work for my lazy self, but looks great. I'm putting on some flush locks at the door, call it good.
I thought about it but have a pressure plenum which complicates a reach-in door release. If I did not have the plenum I might try it.
I drew up this simple inexpensive hidden relase (through right cowl inlet) using piano hinge.
Nice Work!
Oh too much work for my lazy self, but looks great. I'm putting on some flush locks at the door, call it good.
I thought about it but have a pressure plenum which complicates a reach-in door release. If I did not have the plenum I might try it.
I drew up this simple inexpensive hidden relase (through right cowl inlet) using piano hinge.
Nice Work!
Last edited:
Source
The latch looks like this one:
http://www.advancedaviationinc.com/v2/site.html
Kinda pricey. Am researching auto applications for small cars' fuel door latch. Should be able to pick one up at the "Pick 'n Pull more economically....
The latch looks like this one:
http://www.advancedaviationinc.com/v2/site.html
Kinda pricey. Am researching auto applications for small cars' fuel door latch. Should be able to pick one up at the "Pick 'n Pull more economically....
grantcarruthers
Well Known Member
Looks way cool!
Any reason not to place the hinge at the forward/leading edge? This way if you forget to latch or if latch fails in flight the slip stream will hold it mostly closed or at least not rip it off?? Cable run would have to do a 180 instead of 90 degree turn but other than that???
Any reason not to place the hinge at the forward/leading edge? This way if you forget to latch or if latch fails in flight the slip stream will hold it mostly closed or at least not rip it off?? Cable run would have to do a 180 instead of 90 degree turn but other than that???
The forward and aft edges of the oil door are curved, so hard to affix a hinge to. Only the edges parallel to the longitudinal axis of the airplane are straight. Also, I think the hinge the thread author is using is spring-loaded, thus hard to miss during preflight.
I have had an oil door pop open in flight on an RV... it just bobs there serenely until you reduce speed and land. Not a big deal, at least in my experience.
mcb
RV7Guy
Well Known Member
Looks Great
Very nice set up. It actually looks like less work than getting a couple of Hartwell latches to fit properly.
I also thought of using a trim servo with a hidden switch to operate. Actually I think a high torque Radio Control servo would be more than adequate.
Very nice set up. It actually looks like less work than getting a couple of Hartwell latches to fit properly.
I also thought of using a trim servo with a hidden switch to operate. Actually I think a high torque Radio Control servo would be more than adequate.
[email protected]
Member
Details re: "Hingeless Oil Door Latch".
THANKS for the nice compliments! I will attempt to answer the questions asked:
1. Yes, some Lancair builders use this latch system and I bought it at www.advancedaviationinc.com/v2/site.html for around $225; however, I modified it slightly for a RV. I think you could get reasonably close for less $ if you spent the TIME to piece it together. Keep in mind there are more than a couple pieces. There are:
1. The hinge WITH the cable internally attached to it.
2. A built-up fiberglass mounting plate for the hinge.
3. The clasp that the hinge pin fits nicely and firmly into.
4. A built-up fiberglass mounting plate for the clasp.
5. The long cable designed to be cut down with a tough plastic liner.
6. A small fitting to make a pull loop that fits your finger.
7. And the little tubing that fits the finger loop.
I do not know where you would find #s 1, 2 & 4.
COUPLE OF IDEAS:
1. I roughed up the fiberglass with #30 sand papper and hot glued the tube in place. WORKS REALLY WELL.
2. Due to the extreme air pressure in the upper cowl, you have to stiffin up the 1/8" thick fiberglass door. I choose to add 3/8" ridgid foam with 45 degree edges on the back of the door and applied a couple layers of very strong carbon fiber material.
3. I placed the finger pull on the Pilot side because the front left cylinder head is way back on the Pilot side and your won't burn your hand when you reach in to pull the latch.
OH, and regarding pics of my paint I will put post some when paint job is 100% complete. I did post a few pics titled: "New Tail Art".
THANKS ALOT! HAPPY BUILDING........
THANKS for the nice compliments! I will attempt to answer the questions asked:
1. Yes, some Lancair builders use this latch system and I bought it at www.advancedaviationinc.com/v2/site.html for around $225; however, I modified it slightly for a RV. I think you could get reasonably close for less $ if you spent the TIME to piece it together. Keep in mind there are more than a couple pieces. There are:
1. The hinge WITH the cable internally attached to it.
2. A built-up fiberglass mounting plate for the hinge.
3. The clasp that the hinge pin fits nicely and firmly into.
4. A built-up fiberglass mounting plate for the clasp.
5. The long cable designed to be cut down with a tough plastic liner.
6. A small fitting to make a pull loop that fits your finger.
7. And the little tubing that fits the finger loop.
I do not know where you would find #s 1, 2 & 4.
COUPLE OF IDEAS:
1. I roughed up the fiberglass with #30 sand papper and hot glued the tube in place. WORKS REALLY WELL.
2. Due to the extreme air pressure in the upper cowl, you have to stiffin up the 1/8" thick fiberglass door. I choose to add 3/8" ridgid foam with 45 degree edges on the back of the door and applied a couple layers of very strong carbon fiber material.
3. I placed the finger pull on the Pilot side because the front left cylinder head is way back on the Pilot side and your won't burn your hand when you reach in to pull the latch.
OH, and regarding pics of my paint I will put post some when paint job is 100% complete. I did post a few pics titled: "New Tail Art".
THANKS ALOT! HAPPY BUILDING........
[email protected]
Member
Hey Bugsy I did post a few pictures. See: www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=29886 I will post the full plane paint job when 100% complete. THANKS!
On my -4 the oil door is aft of the rear baffle, so I'm hoping that pressure is not going to be an issue. Am I correct on this?
[email protected]
Member
Still need to reinforce. 7 and 4 oil doors are both aft of baffle. Air is rammed in two front holes in cowl and down across cylinder fins to cool engine and out bottom back of cowl. Still alot of upward pressure in top back of cowl. Its baffling. FYI....pic of sanding cowl with 30 grit and hot glueing down cable.
Tom Martin
Well Known Member
Steve
The air aft of the plenum is still under pressure relative to the outside air. In my top plenum I have about 12" of water pressure and aft of the plenum there is about 7". Stiffeners to the door can always be added after first flight, if you feel they are needed.
The air aft of the plenum is still under pressure relative to the outside air. In my top plenum I have about 12" of water pressure and aft of the plenum there is about 7". Stiffeners to the door can always be added after first flight, if you feel they are needed.
ScottSchmidt
Well Known Member
You don't need to spend that type of money.
I bought this latch from Aircraft Spruce, then took out the center slide and machined the inside of the slide and placed a set screw in it to pinch the cable that I bought at Lowes in the aviation department. I then put a hole in the outside of the latch for the wire to run through and it worked great.
The latch was only about $25 when I bought it. It is now $33 I think.
I was probably into my system around $40.
I then glassed in the tube with the wire in the middle. I need to redo my latch on the door someday and make it stiffer, but it works great.
Now, if I were to do it again I would probably just do the flush latches that most people use. They are easy and work great. But is is always fun to mess around with cool stuff like flush mounted oil doors.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/univsprlat.php
I bought this latch from Aircraft Spruce, then took out the center slide and machined the inside of the slide and placed a set screw in it to pinch the cable that I bought at Lowes in the aviation department. I then put a hole in the outside of the latch for the wire to run through and it worked great.
The latch was only about $25 when I bought it. It is now $33 I think.
I was probably into my system around $40.
I then glassed in the tube with the wire in the middle. I need to redo my latch on the door someday and make it stiffer, but it works great.
Now, if I were to do it again I would probably just do the flush latches that most people use. They are easy and work great. But is is always fun to mess around with cool stuff like flush mounted oil doors.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/univsprlat.php
[email protected]
Member
"You have me confused now"
Scott, You have me confused now. You wrote: "If I were to do it again I would probably just do the flush latches that most people use". Can you please explain to me the reasons why you would do the above?.
Scott, You have me confused now. You wrote: "If I were to do it again I would probably just do the flush latches that most people use". Can you please explain to me the reasons why you would do the above?.
Gang,
McMaster-Carr page 2912 (http://www.mcmaster.com/) has an option for $63.64 worth serious consideration. "Remote Actuation Cable Latches with T-Handle". Probably adaptable (locknuts, etc).
In terms of a carbon door, always be aware of material compatibility. Carbon and alum don't mix - add a ply of fibreglass and paint. Steel should be passivated stainless. CAD on carbon aint great either.
Cheers
Wayne Blackler
O-360 Long EZ
Melbourne AUSTRALIA
McMaster-Carr page 2912 (http://www.mcmaster.com/) has an option for $63.64 worth serious consideration. "Remote Actuation Cable Latches with T-Handle". Probably adaptable (locknuts, etc).
In terms of a carbon door, always be aware of material compatibility. Carbon and alum don't mix - add a ply of fibreglass and paint. Steel should be passivated stainless. CAD on carbon aint great either.
Cheers
Wayne Blackler
O-360 Long EZ
Melbourne AUSTRALIA
frankh
Well Known Member
Oh too much work for my lazy self, but looks great. I'm putting on some flush locks at the door, call it good.
I thought about it but have a pressure plenum which complicates a reach-in door release. If I did not have the plenum I might try it.
I drew up this simple inexpensive hidden relase (through right cowl inlet) using piano hinge.
Nice Work!
I did this except my hinge pin is from the firewall side and is held in place by the closed canopy
frankh
Well Known Member
Oh too much work for my lazy self, but looks great. I'm putting on some flush locks at the door, call it good.
I thought about it but have a pressure plenum which complicates a reach-in door release. If I did not have the plenum I might try it.
I drew up this simple inexpensive hidden relase (through right cowl inlet) using piano hinge.
Nice Work!
I did the same but instead of using a hinge extension I glassed in a piece of thick wall nylon tubing (brake stuff). It was very easy to route and has performed without problem for a couple of thousand hours,
tm
ScottSchmidt
Well Known Member
I spent alot of time on this latch and it is a single point latch. With less work I could have had a system that has a two point latch system, less work and most likely a stronger system.
I have multiple failure points (one latch, the wire that is crimped in the latch, ect..) and even though it is cooler to have a clean looking oil door, when you are at some grass strip in the middle of no where it is nice to have stuff that is simple and has a very low chance of failure.
I have had zero issues with this system but just something I would different now.
http://www.rvproject.com/20031101.html
Someday I may switch to a system like the one above.
But everyone should do what they want. Most of us will probably only build one plane in our lives and might as well make it just as you dream.
ScottSchmidt
Well Known Member
It took me about a week or two to completely finish the system. I had to modify the latch and do some extra machining, and do some trial and error since I didn't purchase the kit others ordered. I would fiberglass a section, and come back on work on it the next day. I also had to create some extra "hard" points in the cowl by drilling out the honeycomb and filling it with an epoxy mix.
I mounted the latch to these hard points.
As for reaching the pull cord, it is very easy to reach the cord. I just reach in the left cowl and pull the loop. I have a small cutout that I can get a finger in to lift the oil door. Works great.
