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Stripped screws

Bill Boyd

Well Known Member
What kind of EZ-outs have worked well for, say, #6 stainless 100 degree Phillips screws in an RV wing tip? I bugger these up every now and then, and now have one that ain't coming out without the right tool.

The offerings on Amazon vary from 8 to 60 dollars, and reviews are mixed at best on all of them.

And what should I buy "next time" in place of the fragile Phillips drive system? Torx? Allen? Where to find them in 100* flat head and suitable strength?

Thanks!

-Bill B
 
What kind of EZ-outs have worked well for, say, #6 stainless 100 degree Phillips screws in an RV wing tip? I bugger these up every now and then, and now have one that ain't coming out without the right tool.

The offerings on Amazon vary from 8 to 60 dollars, and reviews are mixed at best on all of them.

And what should I buy "next time" in place of the fragile Phillips drive system? Torx? Allen? Where to find them in 100* flat head and suitable strength?

Thanks!

-Bill B

Well, Bill, if it broke off because the threads galled or are binding, then it is unlikely that an ez out will work. You might be able to drill a couple of sizes below the size for thread ID, and re-tap. If it is in a plate nut, then consider replacing it. BoeLube in the stick form is the best prevention.

edit: I was off base here, I did not read carefully enough that the screw slots were stripped. In that case a good ez out should work.
 
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If it's just the phillips head that is boogered Snap On makes a small set of extractors which work very well. They're not even that expensive...

If it's broken off I'd remove the wingtip and see if there's enough sticking thru the nutplate to grab.

I've been able to buy #8 - 100 deg stainless torx from MicroFasteners aand I see they have #6.

http://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/Objects_lg/images/YA2020.jpg
 
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it's not broken off

Just buggered, as Phillips head screws are wont to do. I use fresh driver tips and a diamond grit "screw grab" paste but still manage to gall them a bit every so often. I retire dozens of these screws on condition every time I remove access plates, wingtips, etc to forestall this problem. This one hogged out completely and I'm stuck as long as it is...
 
As stainless screws come out on wingtips, fairings, spinner, etc., I am going back in with cad plated screws. The SS screws are too much trouble with galling problems and the Phillips drive stripping out. I thought the SS would weather better, but my 8 is always hangared anyway so it is not an issue to use cad screws
 
I just bought a set of the ez outs they advertise on tv. They worked great. I used them three times during my recent condition inspection.
 
A method I've found that usually works is to cut a "slot" across the head with an abrasive disc in a Dremel, then use a straight screwdriver. You must use a worn down disc to keep from damaging the surrounding material.
 
#6 stainless 100 degree Phillips screws

As stainless screws come out on wingtips, fairings, spinner, etc., I am going back in with cad plated screws. The SS screws are too much trouble with galling problems and the Phillips drive stripping out.

Agree totally, I got rid of stainless screws, too prone to get messed up


I have had excellent luck with these, although I dont believe I have used them on small stainless screws.


Well, Bill, if it broke off because the threads galled or are binding, then it is unlikely that an ez out will work.

Yep.

BoeLube in the stick form is the best prevention.

Beeswax works great for lube with stainless screws into nutplates, as well as many other uses-------like tapping threads in alum.
 
In my humble few months of ownership, I've made 2 observations. The small Black and Decker power screwdriver I bought at HD for $29 bucks has been wonderful for keeping me from smearing Phillips heads. It's also great for removing good screws, not to mention the time savings!

The other thing is I just finished building my 3rd and 4th EAA1000 work benches. The first 2 I built with Torx head screws. These last two I save a few dollars and went with Phillips head screws. The Torx screws offer sooo much more positive contact in a high torque operation like screwing 3"-10 screws into 2x4's.

HD has the as-seen-on-tv screw removers for around $9 or $19 bucks if I remember correctly. I am going to pick up a set myself for the hangar.

Good luck. Andy
 
Lots of good advice above. For all those remaining Phillips heads, I suggest getting a couple of Wiha screwdrivers. They are much less likely to cam out than any other Phillips screwdrivers I have tried.

Re Mikes beeswax suggestion, a wax toilet bowl seal works well. One will last you a lifetime.
 
Perhaps an impact driver, in reverse, would work well (before smearing the head). I've found they work really well, though I'm not sure about using one on fiberglass?
 
Micro-Grabit sets are the best. Proper size left hand bit on one end and extractor on the other. Sometimes just drilling left handed spins them out.
 
Like Gill eluded to.. just drill the heads off and replace the nut plates when you get the tip off, wayyyy easier.
 
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