Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
throttle linkage end source
- Thread starter pmnewlon
- Start date
Here is the correct part from Van's catalog...... https://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bi...0-104-306&browse=controls&product=re-bearings
You might also want to look at your mixture cable installation. It could fail in idle cutoff position with that solid cable.
You might also want to look at your mixture cable installation. It could fail in idle cutoff position with that solid cable.
Last edited:
The ball-socket of the right angle linkage part of my throttle cable is a little loose. I would like to replace it and wonder if anyone knows where to find just this part?
I use something very similar on my Carb Heat control. Mine is a part that is spring loaded to remove and I got the part number from a Gumman Tiger owner. I purchased the parts from FletchAir in Texas. FletchAir Catalog shows the part as C508. I think it was around $28 when I purchase the assembly.
Aircraft Spruce also has some Ball Joint Assemblies and a Ball Joint.
Neal@F14
Well Known Member
Yes, the rod-end bearing is a vastly more secure and desirable way to connect the throttle cable to the carburetor or fuel injection throttle body. Having the simple ball and socket connection fail on my old hotrod cars in the past, I would not want to use one of those on an airplane.
Cotter Pins
I find that many builders do not have a clue how to properly install a cotter pin. AC43 has guidelines on this. The portion wrapped around the end of the bolt should be trimmed at the center of the bolt, no longer than the edge or the bolt. The end around the nut should be trimmed just short of where the nut contacts the throttle arm.
Regarding the mixture control end, I much prefer simply drilling the appropriate size hole in a AN4 bolt. This method eliminates the severe bend in the wire and in my opinion is far less likely to fail. The certified Pitts aircraft use the drilled bolt method.
Regarding the throttle cable, if using a standard rod end bearing causes issues with the location of the throttle cable housing, use a spacer between the rod end bearing and the throttle arm. NOT a stack of washers but a spacer made from a piece of steel tubing.
I find that many builders do not have a clue how to properly install a cotter pin. AC43 has guidelines on this. The portion wrapped around the end of the bolt should be trimmed at the center of the bolt, no longer than the edge or the bolt. The end around the nut should be trimmed just short of where the nut contacts the throttle arm.
Regarding the mixture control end, I much prefer simply drilling the appropriate size hole in a AN4 bolt. This method eliminates the severe bend in the wire and in my opinion is far less likely to fail. The certified Pitts aircraft use the drilled bolt method.
Regarding the throttle cable, if using a standard rod end bearing causes issues with the location of the throttle cable housing, use a spacer between the rod end bearing and the throttle arm. NOT a stack of washers but a spacer made from a piece of steel tubing.
Regarding your solid wire mixture cable setup. If you didn't want to mess with it you could always fit a safety return spring to the control arm. That way if the cable brakes the mixture will go to full rich.
These can be had from Robinson Helicopter. They are fitted to R22 helicopter carb mixture control arms that have the solid wire setup. I dont have the part number but I'm sure any Robinson parts supplier can help you with that.
I have one on my carb'd 0320 powered 6.
These can be had from Robinson Helicopter. They are fitted to R22 helicopter carb mixture control arms that have the solid wire setup. I dont have the part number but I'm sure any Robinson parts supplier can help you with that.
I have one on my carb'd 0320 powered 6.
Regarding your solid wire mixture cable setup. If you didn't want to mess with it you could always fit a safety return spring to the control arm. That way if the cable brakes the mixture will go to full rich.
These can be had from Robinson Helicopter. They are fitted to R22 helicopter carb mixture control arms that have the solid wire setup. I dont have the part number but I'm sure any Robinson parts supplier can help you with that.
I have one on my carb'd 0320 powered 6.
Funny you mention that. The A/P working on inspection with me asked me to put a return spring on the throttle so that it doesn't go to idle if the cable breaks. I bought two springs, will have to see if I can find a good place to put the spare on the mixture.
Regarding your solid wire mixture cable setup. If you didn't want to mess with it you could always fit a safety return spring to the control arm. That way if the cable brakes the mixture will go to full rich.
These can be had from Robinson Helicopter. They are fitted to R22 helicopter carb mixture control arms that have the solid wire setup. I dont have the part number but I'm sure any Robinson parts supplier can help you with that.
I have one on my carb'd 0320 powered 6.
I have been searching for an acceptable Mixture Return spring for my RV4, but I have been unable to come up with a "geometric solution". So your post, regarding the R22 mixture spring, got me searching and if anyone else is interested, here is what I found:
Robinson's nomenclature is a "Mixture Control Safety Spring"
Two part numbers:
A071-1 = Spring only
A071-2 = Spring and associated hardware.
I have been unable to source just the spring, and have found the price for the A071-2 assembly runs around $90.
The spring (or lack thereof), was the subject of a R22 service bulletin back in 1984, and now they are standard equipment (or so I assume)
And this Service Bulletin (SB-41), has a diagram of the spring installation, which I found helpful. Here is the link:
http://www.robinsonheli.com/service_library/r22_service_bulletins/r22_sb41.pdf
I haven't ordered one yet, but just thought this info might be of use to someone. I may look for an alternative to the official "Robinson part", and the diagram gave me a new perspective to the geometry question. If I decide to get this to work, I'll post my results.
az_gila
Well Known Member
I'm not sure if the simple DIY drilled bolt is the best idea...
The certified fittings use a slightly cupped washer/fitting that clamps the single strand wire to the bolt hole. This controls the stresses at the wire bolt junction and helps reduce slippage.
This Piper fitting is an example. The cotter pin is temporarily in the wire position -
