What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

winter heat for aircraft

drmax

Well Known Member
Hi. I've got an attached, unfinished hanger to my house. Central Indiana can get pretty cold. (only my walls are insullated, and an open ceiling to the rafters) "If" I get a bird for the nest, which may be an RV6, what type of heating equipment, or protection would be suggested for my investment? I've had a few ideas, including just simply throwing a cloth type tarp over the eng. cowl, and place a ceramic heater below. I'm just wanting wanting to keep it to a temp, that is recommended. It has been planned to go ahead and put the steel ceiling up and blow in the insullation, but unsure if that'll happen yet this year. Thx, DM
 
Ron, I got your message. The forum screwed up somewhere and i tripple posted. I'll keep this one active. Sorry about that. DM
 
Get an engine oil sump heater (Reiff or equivalent). Plug it in the night before you go flying. A cover over the engine and cowl inlet plus ( I use towels) all help.
 
does it ride?

Get an engine oil sump heater (Reiff or equivalent). Plug it in the night before you go flying. A cover over the engine and cowl inlet plus ( I use towels) all help.
so i'll ask...does this heater become a somewhat permanent fixture?
 
Permanent install. I got the oil sump heater and cylinders bands from Reiff. I love the simplicity. Plug it in and the engine stays toasty. Away from home? Find an extension cord!
 
Permanent install. I got the oil sump heater and cylinders bands from Reiff. I love the simplicity. Plug it in and the engine stays toasty. Away from home? Find an extension cord!
Ok...nice! So, that's my only concerns then, for anything being cold soaked? Wasn't sure about possible c/s prop oil issues...Just double checking. DM
 
Let the expenses begin (-: so which system is, by you folks all that is "really" necessary? (meaning sump "and" cyclinders...or simply sump? I wouldn't want to skimp, and take away expensive life of the engine.
 
Minimum sump. I am guessing that you can add the cylinder heaters later if you feel they are warranted. My oil temp and CHT are close to identical when I start the engine (non heated but somewhat insulated hangar). In reality, the oil temp may be higher due to where the oil temp gauge is.
 
Last edited:
We've had only the sump warmer on both our -6A and the -10. We do go to near zero here in Georgia, so I bought a ttimer and set it for midnight, the day before we go flying and by 8:00 a.m., the oil is around 80 degrees and the cylinders and case are warm as well.

Best,
 
Here in the Midwest ...

... where it gets' REAL cold, the cylinder bands are highly recommended. Installing the full Reiff system (i.e. sump heater + cylinder bands) is really straightforward ... not difficult at all. The biggest challenge is where to route the wires to assure no abrasion and no excess heat.
Even better, they have an optional cell phone activated relay that lets you activate the heater anytime, anywhere. For those that don't live at an airpark, that's a wonderful feature.
 
Heat

I've been playing with a space heater system. Pushes hot air in one side of cowl and returns from other. Simple, cheap, Mostly Home Depot parts. Heats whole engine.
Don't know how to add picture here.

W.
 
Heat

Here in the mountains of Colorado, on a mild winter day with the temp in the 5to10 below 0, a sump heater and a good blanket over the cowl will warm the engine compartment to about 70 degrees in about 5 hrs. Works every time.
 
You can install separately if you so choose. I see to recall that either Reiff or Aviation Safety had an article on the subject and recommended both. The thought was if that the heat would be more uniform if you warmed both together, as opposed to have the top cold with the potential of condensation forming on the upper cold parts.

I'm not an expert on this yet, especially since I'll be installing mine this weekend. I'm in Ohio and purchased both.

Reiff has quite a few articles on their site to explain all the options and their benefits. I've also found them more than willing to chat on the phone as well to answer any questions that you may have on their products.

bob
 
Different engine but - -

RV-12 - ROTAX. I installed the SIMPLE Reiff engine heater. Small strip on bottom of engine block. Band around oil tank. I put a packing blanket over the front and clip it together with quick clamps. THE POINT IS : The ENTIRE engine stays about 90 - 95 degrees. 150 watts in my case. Don't have to heat cyls etc. The underside of the hood seems to heat evenly. The packing blanket stores the heat for all to warm up. Oil temp sender, CHT's, and EGT's all read the same. I leave it plugged in all day. Don't see why it wouldn't work on any engine. The cover is what is critical to me.

John Bender
 
SAFETY ALERT!!!

IF you use any type of space heater...

... it should be positioned at least 14 inches above the floor. Should you experience a gasoline leak, the vapors will descend to the floor, much like fog. The slightest spark within the heater can ignite the vapors. Not a good way to heat your airplane!

There is an EAA web site that shows an old Sport Aviation article with ductwork, etc., but the space heater is on the floor. The article should be re-evaluated for safety reasons.

Chad, are you reading this? If I can find the link, I'll add it later in this post. [found it... March 7, 1993, "An Inexpensive Engine Pre-Heater." Here's the Link but it may be available only to EAA members.]

The sump heaters and cylinder heaters are safer and not that much more expensive.


I've been playing with a space heater system. Pushes hot air in one side of cowl and returns from other. Simple, cheap, Mostly Home Depot parts. Heats whole engine.
Don't know how to add picture here.

W.
 
Last edited:
I have the sump heater

installed, and I shove two golden rods up the exhaust pipe. When I get back from flying, I plug in the heater and put the golden rods up the pipes. The engine never knows its winter as the oil temp. never falls below 85 degrees. This method has also been discussed on here before with different opinions. I wouldn't use the cylinder bands for a climate like mine in Portland, it just doesn't get that cold.

Randy
8A
 
installed, and I shove two golden rods up the exhaust pipe. When I get back from flying, I plug in the heater and put the golden rods up the pipes. The engine never knows its winter as the oil temp. never falls below 85 degrees. This method has also been discussed on here before with different opinions. I wouldn't use the cylinder bands for a climate like mine in Portland, it just doesn't get that cold.

Randy
8A
What is a golden rod?
What is your type sump heater?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You can count on Sam to have good info. I will diverge from his thoughts in two areas.

1) I only plug my sump heater on the night before I am going flying. Since I can walk to the hangar if need be, my proximity allows me to do this easily. There are systems available that can activate your heater using some sort of cell phone connectivity.

2) I use an engine dryer religiously. Actually there is no humming or singing but I do get on my knees to insert the dryer system output into the engine breather hose opening at the bottom back of the cowl.

I also open the oil filler cap after a flight to let the vapor (water?) escape.

My current heater is a Wolverine:

www.wolverineheater.com/

I cannot attest to its longevity since I do not use mine 24/7 for months like Sam does.
 
Ideas for occasional use

Anyone have an idea for the occasional engine heat? I'm going to be staying overnight in Flagstaff from time to time where they have a real winter unlike most of Arizona. I can't see making a permanent installation for the few times I'd need a heater. Will a trouble light under the engine and a good thermal blanket provide enough BTUs to keep temps up? Any other ideas?
 
Any other ideas?

Check with FBOs for a heated hangar. Even if a trouble light with 100W bulb (yes I have some), works, you need the blankie (secured for wind), cowl inlet inserts, maybe something to close the bottom cowl opening, and an electrical cord and a power source. The latter two may be the downfall to this idea.
 
Hi Guys.
My C-150 is kept inside an unheated T-Hangar. I keep it ready to fly by using a home made heater to which I added a thermostat. The thermostat is set to 50 degrees. When I am done flying, I put the battery tender on to trickle charge my battery, install my Kennon Cover over the cowl and the heater hose is installed from under the cowl behind the nose gear with the thermostat positioned on top of the front left cylinder. If the inside of the cowl drops below 50 degrees the heater comes on. This keeps the oil and all parts of the engine at a constant 50 degrees. Very critical as noted by engine expert Mike Busch. Before flying I check the temp of the oil as well as various parts of the engine with an infrared temp gauge to ensure it is warm. You can build the whole setup (without the Kennon cover of course) for around $100. I have been doing this for four years now and am confident that my plane can be safely started at any time regardless of the outside air temperature. Send me an e-mail and I can send you some detailed pictures of my setup.
Dom
 
installed, and I shove two golden rods up the exhaust pipe. When I get back from flying, I plug in the heater and put the golden rods up the pipes. The engine never knows its winter as the oil temp. never falls below 85 degrees. This method has also been discussed on here before with different opinions. I wouldn't use the cylinder bands for a climate like mine in Portland, it just doesn't get that cold.

Randy
8A
Ah, now I know what a golden rod is.....:D. The idea of dehumidifying the air in the eng. is awesome. Can anyone else elaborate on this concept of using this device up the exhaust pipe, as in "does the air get past the exhaust valves"? To me it seems very little will be accomplished by this. Those rods are 45 a piece...Thx for any thoughts, DM
 
My old Cherokee came from the previous owner (from Iowa) with a new Tanis system installed. Similar to the Reiff pre-heat system, it had a silicone pad glued to the bottom of the sump, plus four heating elements screwed into the cylinders where you'd normally install CHT temp probes. It would get the engine up from 20 degrees to about 70 in about 2 hours, with an old sleeping bag draped across the cowl and prop (the metal prop is an excellent heat sink for draining heat away from the engine's crankshaft while you're trying to pre-heat it).

I'm sure, being an STC'ed certified product, the Tanis system was probably pretty expensive to buy too, but it sure was very effective.

I'm going to have to come up with some kind of pre-heat for my RV-6 since it has nothing and cold winter flying days are coming soon to northern Texas.
 
My old Cherokee came from the previous owner (from Iowa) with a new Tanis system installed. Similar to the Reiff pre-heat system, it had a silicone pad glued to the bottom of the sump, plus four heating elements screwed into the cylinders where you'd normally install CHT temp probes. It would get the engine up from 20 degrees to about 70 in about 2 hours, with an old sleeping bag draped across the cowl and prop (the metal prop is an excellent heat sink for draining heat away from the engine's crankshaft while you're trying to pre-heat it).

I'm sure, being an STC'ed certified product, the Tanis system was probably pretty expensive to buy too, but it sure was very effective.

I'm going to have to come up with some kind of pre-heat for my RV-6 since it has nothing and cold winter flying days are coming soon to northern Texas.
i ordered the ez heat from spruce...model 441. $150. self sticky pad with red rtv. i did a bunch of research over the last few days...(anal me) and thought money wise...this is the best. it'd fit your 6, i think. good luck
here is company link...but cheaper at spruce
http://www.e-zheatproducts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=3
 
I had the Reiff oil sump pads in my -6A and now also in my -10. I have a timer and usually set it to come on at midnight. Since the oil sump is aluminum, the heat transfers to the case and cylinders and you can feel the warm cylinders with your hand, by 8:00 a.m, so I don't have the cylinder bands even tho' we occasionally see single digit temps here in Ga.

Best,
 
I had the Reiff oil sump pads in my -6A and now also in my -10. I have a timer and usually set it to come on at midnight. Since the oil sump is aluminum, the heat transfers to the case and cylinders and you can feel the warm cylinders with your hand, by 8:00 a.m, so I don't have the cylinder bands even tho' we occasionally see single digit temps here in Ga.

Best,

Wonder what the heat/cold on and off issue will due with condensation. As I posted earlier, would be nice to get a flow of air through there, if one wasn't flying much. The goldenrod idea is good. Didn't know they even existed.
 
Just my theory

I don't put a blanket or plugs in the front of the cowl cause I do want the air to move. trouble is it is only moving across the outside of the engine, everything inside is still at a standstill, and that is another reason I leave everything plugged in all the time, its a pretty constant temp. The heating and cooling is what I try to avoid. If I never leave on a long trip so my engine isn't plugged in, during winter ops, my engine oil never gets below 80 degrees, ever. I have no idea if this helps but don't really think its hurting things. A side benefit is you don't have to buy any fancy remote heater for the engine or remember to get the heat going a couple hours before you fly. If your driving by the airport and feel like flying, you'll be airborn in 10 min. This also minimizes the amount of time running the engine on the ground. By the time you taxi out to the runway your temps are green to go. My battery is on the firewall so it says at a warm temp also. YMMV.

Randy
8A
 
Wonder what the heat/cold on and off issue will due with condensation. As I posted earlier, would be nice to get a flow of air through there, if one wasn't flying much. The goldenrod idea is good. Didn't know they even existed.

I go flying when the engine is heated and that takes care of burning off any moisture.

I never heat the engine if I'm not going flying.

Best,
 
update/return of ez-heat

i ordered the ez heat from spruce...model 441. $150. self sticky pad with red rtv. i did a bunch of research over the last few days...(anal me) and thought money wise...this is the best. it'd fit your 6, i think. good luck
here is company link...but cheaper at spruce
http://www.e-zheatproducts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=3
I returned the ez-heat heater today. I realized I'd have to take off the carb and a bracket that is up near sump to get it "propperly" installed. (that would be to get enough force to properly stick the pad to the sump, as well as get rtv around pad) I was also told by e/z company that the pad was cut out exactly around the sump notch. With that said...there would be about 3/8" of a part of the pad sticking out on the rear of the sump that would not be making contact with the sump, hence no heat nor adhesion. I'm not trying to put down the company, rather giving you folks my experience with this product. Reiff told me today, 12 years ago they had the sticky pad style heater like e-z uses. He said that due to some of my issues, as well as durability, they changed to the aluminum strips type heater.
Lastly, i think for an additional $200, I may get the barrell heaters as well. I believe it would be wise to keep as much heat on, prior to a cold start. It just makes sense.
So my advice...spend the extra $50 and get the Reiff style sump heater. 2 strips of alum. epoxy'd to the bottom of the sump (1.5" by 4") and you're done. Speaking of done...stick a fork in me...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top