Don
Well Known Member
I've spent a couple of hours per day for a week bending the canopy frame (slider). The directions are clear that you need to understand what your doing and that you need to think about what you're doing. In that case, the directions could be just a tad clearer about reasons for some of the measurements.
After a week of back and forth - closer, closer, almost there....how the heck did that happen? - here's were I am.
1. My front bow is a bit less than 3/8" taller than the roll bar and it follows the shape of the roll bar pretty well. The manual says this should be 1/4 to 3/8" taller at the center and the latching mechanism should be centered. I think I've got this covered.
2. The side rails should be inset 1/16" and closely follow the shape of the longerons. This is the easiest measurement to capture in my opinion and I'm there...most of the time (and currently).
3. The side rails should be level with the longerons within 1/4" - I'm close but not perfect. If I could get the aft bow bent the way I want I'd likely be almost perfect - within 1/8".
4. The aft bow is supposed to be 1/8-1/16" lower than than the turtle deck at the center - I'm there. This is a snap to capture by sliding the C-762/C-763 rail forward or aft as needed. The problem begins as you move off the center line of the aft bow. The instructions simply say, the bow should follow the curve of the turtle deck. My does...but not within 1/8-1/16". It was out by about 1/2 an inch or more and I've gotten much closer but at the bend of the cone in the turtle deck I'm out at least 3/8". Above that - in the flatter areas of the turtle deck, the bow is from 1/16" to 1/4" low.
How big of a problem would I create if I called this "good enough"? When I attempt to fit the aft skirts to the turtle deck, I'm guessing I'd be in for some pretty difficult sessions getting a decent fit. I'm just not sure how to get the frame to match the skins any closer.
I know if I could somehow flatten and raise the aft bows some as they move away from the center, the match would improve. In addition, the side rails would raise on the aft end and the rails would parallel the longerons better.
So, in short, how close is close enough when it comes to matching the curve in the turtle deck skin?
And one other question - when I start drilling the plexiglass the directions say start with a #40 bit and open the holes to final size (5/32) with a unibit. I understand plexi loves to crack - is the #40 bit just a standard bit?
After a week of back and forth - closer, closer, almost there....how the heck did that happen? - here's were I am.
1. My front bow is a bit less than 3/8" taller than the roll bar and it follows the shape of the roll bar pretty well. The manual says this should be 1/4 to 3/8" taller at the center and the latching mechanism should be centered. I think I've got this covered.
2. The side rails should be inset 1/16" and closely follow the shape of the longerons. This is the easiest measurement to capture in my opinion and I'm there...most of the time (and currently).
3. The side rails should be level with the longerons within 1/4" - I'm close but not perfect. If I could get the aft bow bent the way I want I'd likely be almost perfect - within 1/8".
4. The aft bow is supposed to be 1/8-1/16" lower than than the turtle deck at the center - I'm there. This is a snap to capture by sliding the C-762/C-763 rail forward or aft as needed. The problem begins as you move off the center line of the aft bow. The instructions simply say, the bow should follow the curve of the turtle deck. My does...but not within 1/8-1/16". It was out by about 1/2 an inch or more and I've gotten much closer but at the bend of the cone in the turtle deck I'm out at least 3/8". Above that - in the flatter areas of the turtle deck, the bow is from 1/16" to 1/4" low.
How big of a problem would I create if I called this "good enough"? When I attempt to fit the aft skirts to the turtle deck, I'm guessing I'd be in for some pretty difficult sessions getting a decent fit. I'm just not sure how to get the frame to match the skins any closer.
I know if I could somehow flatten and raise the aft bows some as they move away from the center, the match would improve. In addition, the side rails would raise on the aft end and the rails would parallel the longerons better.
So, in short, how close is close enough when it comes to matching the curve in the turtle deck skin?
And one other question - when I start drilling the plexiglass the directions say start with a #40 bit and open the holes to final size (5/32) with a unibit. I understand plexi loves to crack - is the #40 bit just a standard bit?