Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Fuel tank rivets weeping
- Thread starter RVsix
- Start date
I had a weeping rivet on my left tank. I completely drained the tank, sealed all the openings, and applied a small vacuum (emphasize small so as not to deform the tank) to the tank. I used a Harbor Freight hand fuel pump but something like this would be better
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Test-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471995911&sr=8-1&keywords=Mityvac
I then applied Green Loctite wicking threadlocker to the weeping rivet and let it sit a bit.
That was 15 years ago and it hasn't seeped since then.
John Allen
RV-6A
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Test-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471995911&sr=8-1&keywords=Mityvac
I then applied Green Loctite wicking threadlocker to the weeping rivet and let it sit a bit.
That was 15 years ago and it hasn't seeped since then.
John Allen
RV-6A
az_gila
Well Known Member
On the -6 that seam is a tight flush fit with the forward facing flange of the spar. A nice proseal fillet along the seam might prevent the tank from fitting correctly.
The real fix is to remove the tank and put the fillet of proseal on the inside of the rear baffle/skin joint. This needs an access hole and cover plate to be fabricated and then prosealed on after the fix.
I then applied Green Loctite wicking threadlocker to the weeping rivet and let it sit a bit.
That was 15 years ago and it hasn't seeped since then.
John Allen
RV-6A[/QUOTE]
Love that solution John. I had a leaking tank last week in the same area. I cleaned the area with MEK and a wire brush, then used Proseal, and a vacuum. Took two tries but it eventually worked.
That was 15 years ago and it hasn't seeped since then.
John Allen
RV-6A[/QUOTE]
Love that solution John. I had a leaking tank last week in the same area. I cleaned the area with MEK and a wire brush, then used Proseal, and a vacuum. Took two tries but it eventually worked.
pa38112
Well Known Member
When you say that you pulled the panel off - do you mean the wing access panel or the wing root cover plate or the fuel sender plate? The ease of fixing this will be determined by how close you are to the filler cap or the fuel sender access panel. There is no harm in trying the wicking Loctite, but I would do it in conjunction with a bead of proseal on the inner seam if there is any way at all to access it without cutting a hole in the tank. If that does not do it then you have not lost much effort in trying and would have to remove the tank and cut-in an access hole.
I read a brilliant idea on this forum yesterday of using a long copper tube on a caulk gun in conjunction with a mirror or borascope to access the inner baffles of the tank without having to cut a hole...
Just make sure you clean the joint well, because this is a on-shot repair.
I read a brilliant idea on this forum yesterday of using a long copper tube on a caulk gun in conjunction with a mirror or borascope to access the inner baffles of the tank without having to cut a hole...
Just make sure you clean the joint well, because this is a on-shot repair.
Thanks guys. I appreciate the replies.
I think I will try the vacuum approach first. If that doesn't work, we will have to consider Gil's idea. John, did you attach the vacuum fitting to the tank to the fuel supply fitting?
I think cutting a hole into a fuel tank though is just asking for more leaking issues down the road.
I have both an upper rivet and a lower one weeping. The upper one is under a very large decal, so that presents lots of other challenges. The lower one is near the wing root cover plate. I removed both that and the fuel sender plate. They would not come off as a unit. I can access the lower aft seam inside the tank. I just am not real sure how far along that seam I should run a bead of proseal.
The upper one is about 12" from the wing root and may be problematic. I like the idea of a long tube though.
I think I will try the vacuum approach first. If that doesn't work, we will have to consider Gil's idea. John, did you attach the vacuum fitting to the tank to the fuel supply fitting?
I think cutting a hole into a fuel tank though is just asking for more leaking issues down the road.
I have both an upper rivet and a lower one weeping. The upper one is under a very large decal, so that presents lots of other challenges. The lower one is near the wing root cover plate. I removed both that and the fuel sender plate. They would not come off as a unit. I can access the lower aft seam inside the tank. I just am not real sure how far along that seam I should run a bead of proseal.
The upper one is about 12" from the wing root and may be problematic. I like the idea of a long tube though.
RVbySDI
Well Known Member
I hear ya, brother!
I had the exact same thoughts when I had my left tank problems. After around a year of flying, my left tank began springing a leak. I attempted to seal it from the outside multiple times (eventually had to take the tank off and make repairs 7 times during the span of 2.5 years). Absolutely none of those attempts to repair the tank from the outside ever worked. I kept saying exactly the same thing you just said: "No way do I want to punch more holes in a container designed to keep liquid inside simply for the purpose of fixing another hole!"
Well, after 5-6 attempts to fix the leak(s) without doing this, I finally realized I was fighting a losing battle. I called Vans and ordered their fuel tank repair kit. 5 of them for the 5 bays in the tank. If I ever have to get into that tank now I have access. Well, I was as sceptical as you before cutting these holes. Afterwards, well I am now 2.5 years since that repair and not a sign of fuel leaks anywhere on this tank. Yes, cutting a 4" diameter hole along with drilling a butt load of rivet holes to secure the plate sounded CRAZY. And doing it 5 times! Ha! CRAZZY! But, it worked! If I ever build another RV I can guarantee I will install those access plates in every bay during the construction of the fuel tank.
Hope the Loctite works but if not, don't be afraid to cut those access holes and fix it from the inside.
Live Long and Prosper!
I had one weeping rivet and this method worked for me. Still holding fine one year later.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=129801&highlight=weeping+rivet
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=129801&highlight=weeping+rivet
Last edited:
How many of you chaps who have leaking rivets never washed the rivets thoroughly before installing them in your tanks?
The rivets as supplied are oily! If you stick some into some Proseal then let it set you will find you can pull the rivets out easily and there will be no Proseal attached. Then wash them and try again.
Put a handful of rivets into a clear glass jar and add some solvent to about an inch over the rivets and shake it. You will find the solvent change color slightly.
There must be some lubricant used in the rivet forming process.
If you didn't wash the rivets, expect some leaks!
Cheers!
The rivets as supplied are oily! If you stick some into some Proseal then let it set you will find you can pull the rivets out easily and there will be no Proseal attached. Then wash them and try again.
Put a handful of rivets into a clear glass jar and add some solvent to about an inch over the rivets and shake it. You will find the solvent change color slightly.
There must be some lubricant used in the rivet forming process.
If you didn't wash the rivets, expect some leaks!
Cheers!
now you tell me.
Plummit
Well Known Member
roadrunner20
Well Known Member
Here's the process I did back in 2012. The rivet still has not leaked since and was on the bottom of the tank.
From 09/2012.
This is an update on my original post.
Seven days into my fix of a weeping rivet, problem solved...
As stated above, I used a a syringe with a 1/2 diameter barrel. I cut & removed the needle mount to expose the 1/2" opening. I made sure the cut was clean & symetrical to allow a perfect seal when placing over the skin & weeping rivet. I used Pliobond as it has a slow cure and is chemical & gas resistant.
To begin the process the fuel level must be below the weeping rivet.
1. Remove the fuel cap.(this will allow a pressure variant), although the vent does too
2. Load a small amount of pliobond into the syringe.
3. Place the opening cut end over the weeping rivet and make sure you have a solid seal against the skin.
4. Depress the syringe. You should feel resistance if you have a solid seal against the skin & providing the push.
5. Repeat step #4 to insure enough pliobond consumes rivet.
6. Let cure for 48 hours to ensure proper seal.
Others have suggested green loctite, which may be a better product. But, I happen to have pliobond that I had previously used & was recommened by Lycoming for crankseal sealing.
Hope this works for your situation. It's a low cost alternative to what others have suggested. Now I just have to come up with a way to remove the blue fuel stain.
From 09/2012.
This is an update on my original post.
Seven days into my fix of a weeping rivet, problem solved...
As stated above, I used a a syringe with a 1/2 diameter barrel. I cut & removed the needle mount to expose the 1/2" opening. I made sure the cut was clean & symetrical to allow a perfect seal when placing over the skin & weeping rivet. I used Pliobond as it has a slow cure and is chemical & gas resistant.
To begin the process the fuel level must be below the weeping rivet.
1. Remove the fuel cap.(this will allow a pressure variant), although the vent does too
2. Load a small amount of pliobond into the syringe.
3. Place the opening cut end over the weeping rivet and make sure you have a solid seal against the skin.
4. Depress the syringe. You should feel resistance if you have a solid seal against the skin & providing the push.
5. Repeat step #4 to insure enough pliobond consumes rivet.
6. Let cure for 48 hours to ensure proper seal.
Others have suggested green loctite, which may be a better product. But, I happen to have pliobond that I had previously used & was recommened by Lycoming for crankseal sealing.
Hope this works for your situation. It's a low cost alternative to what others have suggested. Now I just have to come up with a way to remove the blue fuel stain.
