As previously mentioned you need to have a look at the RV-12 wiring diagram to help with the troubleshooting.
Unless your RV-12 is wired differently than mine, the Dynon Skyview has NOTHING to do with pulsing the landing light nor does airspeed. The RV-12's landing light steady on and pulse modes are controlled solely by the rocker switch on the panel. Power from the landing light fuse is applied to the center terminals of the landing light switch. When the switch is flipped to the landing light position power is applied through the switch, navigates the interconnect board and eventually ends up at pin 35 (yellow/blue stripe wire) on the Options connector and when the switch is flipped to the pulse position, power is applied to pin 31 (yellow wire) on the Options connector. Those wires run down the center tunnel and go to the floating blue Amphenol connector on the side of the fuselage. (If your RV-12 has the old style field of bent tabs which were used as the connection contacts, you should change them out to the blue Amphenol connector because the old style bent tab system was, to be kind, “very problematic”).
At the blue fuselage connector the landing light power is on pin 4 and the pulse power is on pin 5. From there, through the wing to the landing light’s Molex connector at the landing light. Landing light power is applied to pin 5 of the Molex connector (a red wire going to the landing light). The pulse power is applied to pin 4 (a yellow wire going to the landing light).
Of note, if memory serves me correctly, the wires from the landing light to the Molex connector were a small gauge wire and one of the first places I would look at to make sure the wires were crimped properly. Remove the landing light lens and take a close look at the Molex connector and use a volt meter to verify you have power there. Below is a link to a quick method to hold the backing strips in place when you reinstall the lens.
Edit: An additional thought. When you check for voltage on the pulse wire at the landing light's Molex connector, don't just place the volt meter on the input side of the connector and call it good .... try to actually verify that the crimp is good by using a pin or needle to actually get onto the bare wire on the light side of the Molex connector pin. You could also verify the light itself is working properly by unplugging the Molex connector and apply +12 volts to the yellow wire on pin 4 and attach the ground for the test battery on the black wire connected to pin 1 ... the light should pulse. You may be able to use a 9v transistor radio battery. I have used a fresh 9v battery to test that the light works, but did not try to make it pulse with 9v, so that may not work ... but easy enough to try if you don't have easy access to a 12 volt battery.