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6A Nosegear

LouFly

LouFly

Well Known Member
Getting the feel of this 6A I've been developing a squawk list. Last couple of condition inspections have been in March via an experienced (though RV not so much) IA.

Getting a little manageable nosewheel shimmy and we rigged up a breakout test. Is this the appropriate method? We are getting about 19 lb +/- 0.5 lb.
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Also, my AP/IA buddy and partner (in another plane) was a little concerned about the lack of clearance in the nosegear hardware below in my '6A. Comments?
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We seem to be missing sections 9-11 in our builder's construction manual. Can a partial manual be purchased from Van's?

Our records show the nosegear was sent back to Van's for an improved version many years ago.

Thanks -
 
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Looks like a pretty thick washer under the stop bolt. You could probably remove those or use a thinner washer if you feel you need a washer under the bolt head.
 
Zero4Zulu said:
Looks like a pretty thick washer under the stop bolt. You could probably remove those or use a thinner washer if you feel you need a washer under the bolt head.
Click to expand...

The plans show no washer under those allen screws. A touch of blue Loctite would do the job of keeping them in place.
 
Manual on CD

Van's sells the manuals on CD. That is what you need. You are measuring the brake out force correctly.
 
Tighten Nut

Tighten the bottom nut 1 to 2 flats and it should go away. If not remove the fork and clean and inspect all the hardware. Tension washers may have lost their shape.
 
I have seen the tension washers installed incorrectly

(I did it the first time!) ---- look at the plans! Also, I retro-fitted the Anti-splat nose wheel mod ---- my problem went away, unless I allow the nose wheel to contact the runway too fast, and too hard.

Ron
 
RONSIM said:
(I did it the first time!) ---- look at the plans! Also, I retro-fitted the Anti-splat nose wheel mod ---- my problem went away, unless I allow the nose wheel to contact the runway too fast, and too hard.

Ron
Click to expand...

I had nose wheel shimmy that came and went from time to time regardless of the breakout setting... the thing that eliminated shimmy completely for the last 3 years was the Anti-Splat nose wheel bearing mod. My experience with this problem would conclude that perhaps the original taper bearings get momentarily hung up and cause a shimmy. I have yet to experience a nosewheel shimmy since I had the Anti-Splat bearing mod done.

Good luck.

Victor
 
You have a Cleveland wheel.
..... A bearing mod is not needed for this wheel... I have the same one. If you order the plans, let Vans know what wheel you have. The set up procedure is different than the newer wheels.
 
I am not flying yet but my new wheel went to ASA for the mod, the taper bearing with a flexible fork did not seam right to me, too much bearing rolling resistance or too loose. So now, with a round tire, trued and balanced, I can push the plane around with one or two fingers.
 
I went with the Matco axle with the stock nose wheel bearing setup. It allows you to set bearing preload independent of the axle bolt. Works great!

Not sure about the break-out force for a -6A, but it's higher on a -9A at 22 lb.

No shimmy ever for me, with wood dampers fitted to nose gear and the mains.
 
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rightrudder said:
I went with the Matco axle with the stock nose wheel bearing setup. It allows you to set bearing preload independent of the axle bolt. Works great!

Not sure about the break-out force for a -6A, but it's higher on a -9A at 22 lb.

No shimmy ever for me, with wood dampers fitted to nose gear and the mains.
Click to expand...
Same here and same result. I really like Matco axle and at around 50$, it is hard to beat.
 
Bavafa said:
Same here and same result. I really like Matco axle and at around 50$, it is hard to beat.
Click to expand...

It may be hard to beat if it was a Matco wheel. But this is a Cleveland wheel. It dose not have the issues of a Matco wheel.

Just read the plans for THIS Cleveland wheel installation.
 
Looking at that first picture again, it appears the wheel is really close to the inside of the fork. Maybe it's just the picture but I would want a little more clearance than it appears to have.
 
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