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Sealing sump plugs

jdeas

jdeas

Well Known Member
What are mechanics using to seal the 1/2" pipe plugs in the sump? Twice I tried Teflon paste without getting a good seal.

In plumbing use, RectorSeal #5 on course thread pipes always gives me better results than teflon tape or paste. Has anyone used RectorSeal #5 to seal sump plugs? See any reason why RS #5 would not be appropriate?
 
I'm not a mechanic, but I use permatex thread sealant from the local auto store. Works great for me.
 
Robin8er said:
I'm not a mechanic, but I use permatex thread sealant from the local auto store. Works great for me.
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I have had good luck with permatex #2

I installed a 2.5 gal water heater this winter with really bad male threads and could not get them to seal. Tried first coating the threads with dope, followed by several wraps of tape and surprisingly it didn't leak. Apparently an old plumbers trick.

Larry
 
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As suspected

OK, no one spoke of Teflon tape or paste for these coarse threads which is what I expected from past experience. Thought I had tried fuel lube initially (10 years ago) but the results are lost to me.
 
I use Loctite 567 for all pipe threads. It has the added benefit of being resistant to alcohol (ethanol), which will soften Permatex #2 and liquify Fuel Lube.
 
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I second locktite 567 or the standard temp 565. I believe the 567 is the higher temp version. Not a fan of fuel lube, as fuel lube is a lubricant, and not a sealant. Every plane I see that has used fuel lube eventually developed leaks and needs to get torn apart to be resealed.

Clean the threads and apply the locktite 567 paste. Then use your finger to press the paste into the base of the threads and install.
 
FWIW, I use 567 on fittings that don’t require regular removal as it does posses a low strength disassembly feature which is not necessarily desirable on things that are regularly removed for service.
 
Walt said:
FWIW, I use 567 on fittings that don’t require regular removal as it does posses a low strength disassembly feature which is not necessarily desirable on things that are regularly removed for service.
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I don't understand your comment Walt. If a component will be regularly removed, you would want to use this due to low break-away torque, which would imply easier removal; Loctite lists this as 1.25 ft-lbs.

I've found it's break-away is much easier than with Permatex #2. Being that it has a thixotropic methacrylate base (some characteristics in line with Teflon), it is non-hardening and acts much like a teflon paste minimizing galling for both assembly and disassembly.

Fun fact: it is the OEM sealant used on internal case threading, such as piston squirters or galley plugs, so also a very long term sealant.
 
rongawer said:
I don't understand your comment Walt. If a component will be regularly removed, you would want to use this due to low break-away torque, which would imply easier removal; Loctite lists this as 1.25 ft-lbs.

I've found it's break-away is much easier than with Permatex #2. Being that it has a thixotropic methacrylate base (some characteristics in line with Teflon), it is non-hardening and acts much like a teflon paste minimizing galling for both assembly and disassembly.

Fun fact: it is the OEM sealant used on internal case threading, such as piston squirters or galley plugs, so also a very long term sealant.
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No big deal, I just don't want to add a sealant that 'sets' and causes a fitting to be harder to remove if I know I'll be taking it out again soon.

Titeseal for example is a great non-setting thread sealant.
 
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