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  #21  
Old 03-15-2022, 01:23 PM
lemerc lemerc is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 5
Default Easier reassembly

A couple of things I will try to make assembly easier, besides splitting the end blocks, are: 1. Drill out the bolt holes in the blocks using a #10 drill. This is .006 larger than the 3/16 called for. This should make installing the bolts through the nylon blocks much easier, rather than trying to wrench them in in the uncomfortable position I will be in. 2. I will use castle nuts with cotter pins on the bolts rather than nylon lock nuts for the same reason.
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  #22  
Old 03-16-2022, 03:18 PM
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acrojohn acrojohn is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 4
Default Removal Sequence on My 6A

After reading all the posts on this thread, I assumed the position with a lot of apprehensions, head first with my back bent over the wing spar. First, everything in the way or attached had to be removed. In my case, this included:
- throttle quadrant lowered
- brake cylinders removed from the rudder pedals and down tube ears and pushed up and forward of the cross over tubes
- rudder cable linkages removed from outer down tube ears
- Right side vent hose removed
I left the individual rudder pedals attached for the entire process.

Next, the AN-3 bolts (6) securing the mounting saddle blocks to the fuselage structure were completely removed from the blocks otherwise the blocks would not be able to slide under the NACA vents. The center saddle mount halves were removed at this point and their orientation was labeled.

The sequence to move the tubes for removal was as follows:
- the left side saddle block and tubes were moved as far forward as they would go.
- the right side saddle block and tubes were moved as far aft as possible (at this point the right block was still not able to be removed).
- the left side saddle block and tubes were pushed up as far as they would go. (This provides enough clearance on the right side saddle block to clear the upright vertical structure. A little twisting of the right saddle block clock-wise a quarter of a turn provided ample clearance to remove the entire assembly.

Locations of control cables for heat control boxes, parking brakes, and other components can cause issues or dictate which assembly side gets pushed and which gets pulled. My cables were on the left side dictating that the right side block had to get pulled out first.

These steps took 45 minutes to complete. Iím heading to the welder tomorrow.

Iím hoping to reinstall by just reversing the sequence. Reassembly may be complicated by the finger gussets on the left rudder tube assembly causing limited spacing between the right rudder tube in front of it. This could limit the ability to twist the assembly Ė maybe not. I donít see how the saddle blocks could be reinstalled (whole) independently of the tubes. Worse case, the saddle blocks can be cut in half and the tubes installed separately.

Keep in mind, your airplane may be totally unique requiring a different set of steps/sequences. As with most tasks on this yearís Condition Inspection, there was a lot more apprehension generated from reading these posts than actually doing the work. The fuel tank removal was another walk in the park. Iíll get back to you with a report on the installation when that is done. Good luck.

John
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RV-6A N30YD Bill Boyd's creation - I just keep it flying.
Acrosport II N827JA My creation - still rolling
MiniMAX N962JA Another of my creations - retired
Grumman AA-1A N9462L Restoration - sold
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  #23  
Old 03-17-2022, 08:13 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,782
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lemerc View Post
A couple of things I will try to make assembly easier, besides splitting the end blocks, are: 1. Drill out the bolt holes in the blocks using a #10 drill. This is .006 larger than the 3/16 called for. This should make installing the bolts through the nylon blocks much easier, rather than trying to wrench them in in the uncomfortable position I will be in. 2. I will use castle nuts with cotter pins on the bolts rather than nylon lock nuts for the same reason.
The plans specifying the use of a #10 drill is not to make loose fit holes... it is to make a properly sized hole.
When drilling UHMW material, it is just fluid enough that it expands when penetrated by the drill. It then contracts when the drill is removed and you end up with an under sized hole. If the hole is drilled with a #10 bit, the resulting hole is very close to the hole size normally made in other materials using a #12 bit.
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Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop
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  #24  
Old 03-20-2022, 04:33 PM
kklewin kklewin is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Bozeman, MT
Posts: 224
Default

Did some RV6A rudder pedals come with the upgrade at some point? The SB seems to mention "Check to see if your rudder pedal has gussets installed"? Won't be out to the plane for a bit, but I think I ordered my finish kit in 2002 ish? (Right at the end of RV6 production).

Cheers,

Kurt
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  #25  
Old 03-20-2022, 05:01 PM
abwaldal@gmail.com abwaldal@gmail.com is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 465
Default Gussets or not?

If you get the new ones and they have the gussets just scream YES!!!! I'm almost sure your 2001 bars will will have them. I bought a set around the same time.
As far as getting them out with solid end blocks. It is possible. I did it.
However putting them back in with solid blocks ain't gonna happen.
Removing them with the NACA installed is possible. Anyway I did. But if the vents aren't riveted in, But were glued in with Proseal, you can slice them out real easy.
Just remove anything in the way and go for it.
Not a short day, But doable.
Your luck may vary Art
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