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Installing the Grove Gear

Anna

Active Member
Hi together,

today I tried to install the Grove Gear on my -8.

According to the construction manual there should be a gap of .030 between the outboard bracket and wear plate. I used a torque wrench to screw the bolts on the outboard bracket (started with 50inlbs and increased in 5 inlbs increments).

Questions:
1. I have no gap between the outboard bracket and the wear plate on the outer side. On the inner side there is a gap of approx. .010. Is it necessary to file the bracket to increase the gap?

2. Also the outer braket was "bend around" the gear leg after torquing. Is this usual?

3. Is there also a gap required between the inboard bracket and the inboard wear plate?

4.Has anybody detailed pictures? This would be really helpful...

5. What is the correct torque secquence for the gear leg bolts? Starting at the inboard bracket and going to the outboard bracket?

6. I am looking for a picture of the brake line from the brake cylinder to the gear leg. I have installed a 90? fitting on the upper gear leg (four thread turns and teflon tape), i hope it is dense?

Hope the snow storm is not that bad? ;)

Thank you folks!

Anna
 
I guess there has been an update on the gear... The brake line will be attached to the Gear brake line on the same side of the gear leg now... As you can see on the picture, there is hardly space...
 
Anna, look at my kitlog-under fuselage Sept. 2013. I had to file the face of the outboard brackets to get the required clearance.
 
When I installed my gear I talked to Robbie Grove about the gap he explained that the only reason for the gap is to make sure all the torque is applied to the gear and not the wear plate. The actual measurement isn't important just so there is some gap after you torque the bolts. I torqued the inside bolts first and then the outside. There is no gap on the inboard side and yes the bracket does bend a little. Hope this helps.
 
I guess there has been an update on the gear... The brake line will be attached to the Gear brake line on the same side of the gear leg now... As you can see on the picture, there is hardly space...

"Hardly any space" is why I did it as you see above.
 
"Hardly any space" is why I did it as you see above.

OP, yeah, don't overlook the fact that there is no hard and fast requirement to use Van's prepunched hole... You've already departed the pre-punched plan by going with Grove gear. Go with it.
 
As you know, the brake line and the vent line now come on two different sides. So even though there's hardly any space, I installed a 90 degree fitting for the brake line, manufactured a short "U" brake line, and I added a strait fitting to be able to connect the fuel vent line easily after the Grove gear was installed. You don't have the option of crossing the brake line over like DanH mentioned unless you drill another hole in the floor. You also might want to install a steel 90 degree fitting on both ends of your Grove gear. There's another thread talking about an aluminum fitting breaking off in the Grove gear if you happen to over torque it. Not an easy job to remove the broken fitting and that's why a steel fitting is recommended. I used Baker Seal on all the fittings. Some folks have swapped the vent line hole with the brake line hole and crossed over their brake line. Hope this helps.

Short "U" brake line connector
2n8x5zs.jpg


The straight fitting you see is for the fuel vent line.
ao2eis.jpg


Brake line in place. Tight but it clears everything and doesn't rub on the bracket.
o5rds7.jpg
 
I had to send my "u" brackets back to Grove to be milled down a bit, as I ended up with no gap at all. They turned them around quickly and at no charge.
 
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