RV-7A by Mark P.

s10sakota · #1 08-30-2012, 02:30 PM

I thought I would add my project to this section. I am building an RV-7A which is my third airplane project, and my first aluminum kit.

I will save my pennies for a new 180 horse O-360 from Van's and the panel will be Dynon products with autopilot. My goal is to build simple and light and use a fixed pitch metal prop.

My build log is here: http://www.aircraftstickers.com/RV7A/RV7A.htm

Here's a pic of the current status (as of August 30, 2012)

s10sakota · #2 09-06-2012, 08:54 AM

I just had 9 days off of work and spent most of the time working on the wings. I went from having spars and ribs to building a jig, riveting the wing skeleton, matching drilling all the skins, building and installing the leading edges, and finishing all of the Z-brackets.

I could have had the wing tanks at least match drilled but I ran out of clecos which I had to order as well as a new fluting tool. That's a lot of progress for a week's work.

I also finalized my paint scheme. Now don't any of you guys go and copy now! It's based on the T-38.

UPDATE: Wait...I think everyone should copy it! Wouldn't it be cool to have a whole 'squadron' of RV's painted like this??

Jeff Vaughan · #3 09-06-2012, 04:04 PM

Hmmmm looks familiar.

Great looking paint scheme!!!

s10sakota · #4 09-12-2012, 10:59 AM

Things are moving nicely! Both wing tanks are built and fit to the wings. There is almost ZERO gap between the tank and leading edge-the fit is amazing. All the Z-brackets are drilled and complete.

Now the 'fun' begins. I think the next step is actually building these tanks and sealing them with pro-seal. That will be a huge step to have the tanks complete-but a step I will take very slowly. I want these tanks to come out perfect with no leaks.

Here's a progress pic...

s10sakota · #5 09-12-2012, 11:03 AM

As I was drilling the holes for in the splice plate, I inserted a screw in each hole just to make sure nothing moved. Again, the fit is amazing, but man these tanks were a bugger to build!

If you're wondering, I made tick marks by each hole as I match drilled them. I do this so that when I move the cleco's around I don't miss any holes and I know which ones have been drilled and which holes have not. Works for me...

Mark Dickens · #6 09-12-2012, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s10sakota

I just had 9 days off of work and spent most of the time working on the wings. I went from having spars and ribs to building a jig, riveting the wing skeleton, matching drilling all the skins, building and installing the leading edges, and finishing all of the Z-brackets.

I could have had the wing tanks at least match drilled but I ran out of clecos which I had to order as well as a new fluting tool. That's a lot of progress for a week's work.

I also finalized my paint scheme. Now don't any of you guys go and copy now! It's based on the T-38.

UPDATE: Wait...I think everyone should copy it! Wouldn't it be cool to have a whole 'squadron' of RV's painted like this??

Nice job on the illustration!

longranger · #7 09-12-2012, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s10sakota

Things are moving nicely! Both wing tanks are built and fit to the wings. There is almost ZERO gap between the tank and leading edge-the fit is amazing. All the Z-brackets are drilled and complete.
...

Let us know how that fit is after you seal the tank. Mine looked that when only clecoed, but now I have about a 0.050 bulge on the tank skin, top side only. Change in contour due to sealant? I'm thinking about installing the W-408 undersize rib with sealant between it and the joint plate in an effort to bring the leading edge skin closer the tank skin.

Before:

After: (sorry for the focus....)

s10sakota · #8 09-12-2012, 05:33 PM

I can't tell by looking at your After photo-is there just a larger gap between the tank and leading edge?

I guess I won't know how mine will turn out until it's all riveted together.

longranger · #9 09-12-2012, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s10sakota

I can't tell by looking at your After photo-is there just a larger gap between the tank and leading edge?

I guess I won't know how mine will turn out until it's all riveted together.

The spanwise gap is still about what is was, almost nothing. Before sealing the tank the skin was in contact with the joint plate, making the exact same contour as the LE skin. Now, it sits above the joint plate, about 0.050 at its highest point.

s10sakota · #10 09-13-2012, 10:40 AM

Check out this link on Jim's log, he seems to have the same problem (seems this happens to most people) and he fixed it by adding additional screws.

Here's the link to his page with photos...

http://www.adap.com/rv7/