Will these squeezer yokes work for the RV-12?

As you probably know, Van's recommends a 3-inch squeezer yoke for the RV-12. I own a 2 1/2-inch yoke from a previous project. Do you think I can get by with the 2 1/2-inch yoke, or are there a lot of instances where you need the full 3-inch reach? I do have a rivet gun and bucking bar I can use if there are only a few solid rivets I won't be able to reach with the 2 1/2-inch yoke.

I also own a longeron yoke and Avery C-frame. Has anyone found these useful for building an RV-12?

Thank you.

You should be fine since you have the rivet gun. The c-frame probably won't get used much, at least mine doesn't. I probably use the gun more than most others do.

Mark, check PMs. -- JH

If memory serves me correctly (it rarely does), I used even larger than a 3" extension on the rear bulkhead of the tailcone. Of course you can just use the gun, but if you like squeezing you may need a larger size.

Bob

bhassel said:

If memory serves me correctly (it rarely does), I used even larger than a 3" extension on the rear bulkhead of the tailcone. Of course you can just use the gun, but if you like squeezing you may need a larger size.

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I think your memory served you right this time . I remember having issues in getting the rear bulkhead done with the 3" yoke. It was borderline and as I had no experience with a bucking bar, I chose to get a larger yoke (I think 4 or 4.5") which made riveting the rear bulkhead easy as pie.
I you are good with the bucking bar, then you would not need that as there are only a few rivets where you'd wish you had the full 3" yoke or something even deeper.
I can't comment on the C-frame but I never felt I wanted one during the built. Now if you' wanted to use CS pull rivets on the wing skins and had to dimple the holes, that would probably be a different situation.

I'd recommend a river gun with an offset rivet set for the bulkhead. The clearance was tight for the squeezer. If you lay thin cardboard on the aluminum you will protect it from scratches during the riveting.

The 3" yoke will do every solid rivet on the -12, including the rear bulkhead. It's just a matter of getting the angle right. A couple on the rear bulkhead will have you scratch your head, then you move it just the right way and say "Of course!"

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Since I already have the 2 1/2-inch yoke, I'll start with it, and if there are dozens of rivets I can't reach, I'll get a longer yoke!

Bill_H said:

The 3" yoke will do every solid rivet on the -12, including the rear bulkhead. It's just a matter of getting the angle right. A couple on the rear bulkhead will have you scratch your head, then you move it just the right way and say "Of course!"

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Bill is right.
If you weren't able to rivet the aft bulkhead with a 3" yolk you either are no good with puzzles or you didn't hold your tongue right.......
The pushrod opening was specifically designed to make it possible.

rvbuilder2002 said:

Bill is right.
If you weren't able to rivet the aft bulkhead with a 3" yolk you either are no good with puzzles or you didn't hold your tongue right.......
The pushrod opening was specifically designed to make it possible.

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I think I resemble both

Bob

small yoke is also useful

(slightly off topic) I found that having a smaller yoke (1.5" IIRC) is also a useful addition to the toolbox. I generally put dimple dies into the small one and used a Main Squeeze for the rivets. When you get to the triangular openings in the fuselage side for the wing electrical connectors, the 1.5" yoke works great and allows you to dimple easily instead of the "hammer blow" method called out by 23-06 #6.