Removing rivets-only shop head accessible

[tomhanaway]

Didn't want to hijack the other rivet thread.
I was thinking about the recent SB's for elevators. Don't need to do it but was looking at my doubler plates for turnbuckles.
Apparently, (maybe thinking manufactured head against thinner metal)?, I installed the spar doubler plate rivets for the turnbuckles such that only the shop ends of the rivets are exposed after the elevator leading edge was closed up.

Don't need to do it now but would like to be familiar with procedure when faced with this situation.

Thanks,
Tom H.

[PJSeipel]

I've done it a few times. Just like doing it from the manufactured head, but you better be darned sure your hole is in the center of the shop head or you'll make a mess. And if your shop heads are clinched or smashed too flat, all bets are off. I use a center-punch to made a starting divot in the center of the shop head where I want to drill, and I start with a much smaller drill bit, like a 1/16. Drill most of the way through the shop head, don't go all the way through the rivet. On a -3 rivet I'd go up to a #40 bit at that point. For a -4 I'd drill #40, then #30. Then snap it off with a punch just like you would any other. It is obviously more difficult on dimpled holes. I'd practice a few times on scrap before doing it on structure you want to keep.

There may be a better way, but if there is I don't know what it is.

PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032

[Walt]

The shop head is generally not centered so this is risky business no matter how you approach it. Another option is to grind off the shop head then drill the rivet shank to loosen it and punch it out.