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What are folks using for "smiley" filler

gttice

I'm New Here
Based on my search results, either I am terrible at finding the right search term or I am the only person to have ever created a smiley that needs to be covered up. But in case there is anyone out there that has used a filler for other kinds of dings, I would love to know what you think are the better ones.

Jerry T.
 
Filler

Depends on why and where.
I've plugged holes in pull rivets with JB Weld for cosmetic purposes. I've covered or repaired other spots with flox. Never tried to fill a smiley because I don't make mistakes! :D
Joking of course. If the smiley is on the aluminum and will be painted, I would use auto glazing compound. Sands flat really easy. High build primer would probably fill easily. You may need to sand the smiled first. There's usually a raised area. Not sure how I would know that! :D
 
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Jerry,

Don’t search on the forum. You’ll never find anything. Instead use your favorite search engine, I prefer DuckDuckGo. Type in what you’re looking for followed by “site:vansairforce.net”. You’ll find all the threads that way.

Example: smiley filler site:vansairforce.net

I used rage gold on the smileys that were bad enough for filler. Thankfully just a few spots.

Good luck
 
Use this

Most "smiley's" are pretty small. Scuff them with 320 paper, clean with alcohol. I personally use Evercoat 416 glazing compound for any small fills and finish fill. Hard yet sands like balsa wood. (I didn't have any mistakes on my second 7):D:D

General rule of thumb, anything with a depth of 1/16" or more should be micro filler and epoxy. 1/16th or less, Rage or 416.
 
I prefer to use Superfil which is an epoxy filler. I think this is more stable over the long term. Polyester fillers tend to shrink.
Stewart Willoughby, 6
 
For bigger dings like a hail dent I like Evercoat Rage or Rage Gold. For smaller dings or scratches I like Evercoat 417. After sanding the filler I prime the spot with PPG K36 primer.
 
Epoxy and micro. Mix it thick and sand aluminum first. Sticks well, doesn’t shrink and sands easily.
 
Adhesion ?

Sometimes west 105 micro can be popped off when cleaning up where you don’t want it. I am at this point in paint prep as discussed above.

You are saying purposful sanding is good enough for the micro bond. I was wondering if light etch primer after sanding the aluminum would add anything to the bond ?
 
I find that my epoxy/micro mixture makes a better bond if the aluminum is etched and alodine.
 
Not Catalyzed

I prefer to use Superfil which is an epoxy filler. I think this is more stable over the long term. Polyester fillers tend to shrink.
Stewart Willoughby, 6

Catalyzed fillers don't shrink. Something like Stanton in the tub will shrink.

Epoxy and micro works but difficult to get that perfect feathering blend. The 416 works great for this.
 
I've had 20 years of good luck using 3M™ Urethane Seam Sealer to fill overlapping panel lines and even hid hard rivets on my RV-6. This stuff is easy to use, doesn't shrink and remains flexible. Can be thinned and blended using reducers. Available at most auto body paint stores. It's very paintable after curing.
 
I can't believe you would cover a memory like that.
I use a sharpie to write the name of the person that was bucking during that session. On the inside of coarse.:)
 
I don’t know how many times I’ve heard “Can you do something about those? My wife was helping me rivet that day”. Yes sir, sure can. Lol :D
 
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