redbeardmark
Well Known Member
Has anyone purchased Van's new oil cooler vent/shutter? If so, any comments? Does the shutter door open/close on a cam? Is failure mode OPEN? Anyone have a photo?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Van's Air Force
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Van's oil cooler vent/shutter
- Thread starter redbeardmark
- Start date
hevansrv7a
Well Known Member
There is another way
I saw an RV-8 with a better idea - a box and a flap such as for the heater. That way the air is not blocked for hot weather.
I saw an RV-8 with a better idea - a box and a flap such as for the heater. That way the air is not blocked for hot weather.
I have flown with one of these oil cooler shutters installed on my RV-4 since the first of AUG. this year. Flying here in North Carolina when the AGL air temperatures were in the 90s to close to 100 deg, there were no problems with oil temp. The 8.6 sq. in. of opening for cooling air is enough even on the hottest days. I installed the shutter between the oil cooler and the front bulkhead. This works for me. Photos upon request.
redbeardmark
Well Known Member
Please... photos!
GB2,
Sure would appreciate a photo or two, posted here or a link to where they are.
Thanks in advance,
GB2 said:
GB2,
Sure would appreciate a photo or two, posted here or a link to where they are.
Thanks in advance,
Rick6a
Well Known Member
Because my O-320 engine experiences cooler than acceptable oil temperatures, even with a plate covering the back side of it, I ordered the new vent/shutter for my RV. It will be installed upon receiving it.redbeardmark said:
Today, I made a very interesting observation at the airport and I sorely wish I had my digital camera along to document what I observed. After a 40 minute flying session in which the oil temp never got above 128 degrees, and this with a back plate covering 100% of the rear area and steel tape covering approximately 1/4 of the front surface of the cooler, I discovered a rather interesting thing. A friend has a baffle mounted oil cooler on his O-320 equipped 1974 Piper Warrior. The oil cooler and its baffle mounted installation is virtually identical to the per plans installation on my RV. What struck me is the oil cooler on his Warrior has a back plate permanently installed to the backside...AND...a temporary plate covers the entire area on the FRONT side of the oil cooler with the following placard on it...OIL COOLER Winterization Plate. To be removed when ambient temperature exceeds 50 degrees F. I then noted another friend's Cherokee 140 with an O-320 and the same oil cooler (only mounted under the cowl intake). Again, his Cherokee had a similiar winterization plate installed and covering the entire front surface of his oil cooler sporting the same placard. Maybe those production guys are on to a few things about oil coolers we RV'ers can do well to learn from.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Bryan Wood
Well Known Member
photo
shutter photos courtesy of Garry Brown
shutter photos courtesy of Garry Brown
garnt.piper
Well Known Member
Oil Cooler
I have an RV-4 with O-360 and rear baffle mounted oil cooler. With a back plate covering ~70% of the outlet area normal crz. oil temp is ~75?C. I run only 6qts. of oil and fly comp. aeros, still no oil temp problems. I think the shutter looks like a beaut solution. Other comments about fully covering oil coolers begs the question - do we all need them?
VH-PIO
I have an RV-4 with O-360 and rear baffle mounted oil cooler. With a back plate covering ~70% of the outlet area normal crz. oil temp is ~75?C. I run only 6qts. of oil and fly comp. aeros, still no oil temp problems. I think the shutter looks like a beaut solution. Other comments about fully covering oil coolers begs the question - do we all need them?
VH-PIO
Rick6a
Well Known Member
First impressions
I received it today. My first impressions are that it is well made.
It is essentially a 4 piece lamination. The two internal pieces are
hinged in such a way as to move opposite one another when
operated by the lever arm. Clever. The unit itself weighs 4 ounces.
However, my installation will also include the A-740 push/pull cable
and the Bowden wire kit sold as options. Those parts will add another
6.9 ounces to the weight of the installation. Add another ounce or
two for the (as yet unidentified) firewall penetration and associated
hardware for final cockpit control and the total weight
will likely approach something south of a pound.
The printed instructions are naturally generic in nature, but refreshingly,
unlike some of the notoriously vague and poorly reprinted instructions
supplied with some accessory kits in the past, this one is well thought out, clearly written,
and presented with color detail photos of a typical installation.
I am looking forward to installing this vent but as a warm weather
person, I tend to move kinda slow when the temperatures dip to freezing
and below! Hopefully, someone can provide us with flight performance soon.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
redbeardmark said:
I received it today. My first impressions are that it is well made.
It is essentially a 4 piece lamination. The two internal pieces are
hinged in such a way as to move opposite one another when
operated by the lever arm. Clever. The unit itself weighs 4 ounces.
However, my installation will also include the A-740 push/pull cable
and the Bowden wire kit sold as options. Those parts will add another
6.9 ounces to the weight of the installation. Add another ounce or
two for the (as yet unidentified) firewall penetration and associated
hardware for final cockpit control and the total weight
will likely approach something south of a pound.
The printed instructions are naturally generic in nature, but refreshingly,
unlike some of the notoriously vague and poorly reprinted instructions
supplied with some accessory kits in the past, this one is well thought out, clearly written,
and presented with color detail photos of a typical installation.
I am looking forward to installing this vent but as a warm weather
person, I tend to move kinda slow when the temperatures dip to freezing
and below! Hopefully, someone can provide us with flight performance soon.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
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redbeardmark
Well Known Member
Thanks!
Thanks Garry, Bryan and Rick.
I ordered one and will install it as soon as possible(unheated hangar--weather is an issue), and will post a report on zero-ish Fahrenheit performance.
Thanks Garry, Bryan and Rick.
I ordered one and will install it as soon as possible(unheated hangar--weather is an issue), and will post a report on zero-ish Fahrenheit performance.
gmcjetpilot
Well Known Member
cool but......
I like to keep it simple and light. In the summer oil cooler wide open. In the winter (for Northerners), block it for the season (with a temporary plate), not hard to do. With any device like this you have the weight of the plate and cable to carry around all the time. I guess if you are flying from Canada to Southern Florida or Mexico in the winter it may be a nice thing to have. G
I like to keep it simple and light. In the summer oil cooler wide open. In the winter (for Northerners), block it for the season (with a temporary plate), not hard to do. With any device like this you have the weight of the plate and cable to carry around all the time. I guess if you are flying from Canada to Southern Florida or Mexico in the winter it may be a nice thing to have. G
Rick6a
Well Known Member
Not necessarily.... The vent can be safety wired into any position easily enough and some builders may do just that and forgo installing a cable control to the cockpit. In that case the total weight gain is all of 4 oz. Leaving the Snickers bar in the FBO's vending machine would cancel out even that small amount.gmcjetpilot said:
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
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My oil cooler is mounted to the baffles right behind the rear left cylinder. I have a thin aluminum plate that fits between the oil cooler and the cylinders fins that blocks at least 80 percent of the airflow through the cooler, but if I remember when I bought the plane back in Feb and it was cold out, the temps did not get very high. I think I may go back and use some Duct Tape and tape the entire back side of the oil cooler shut...... I used Tape on the oil cooler on my old Piper Pacer and it worked well.
gmcjetpilot
Well Known Member
You made my point for me, Thanks
True Rick, but than why bother to have an adjustable baffle. You kind of made my point for me. There is no real need for in-flight or fast changes to the oil cooler flow. A simple block plate or tape is all that is needed, and you could make a change as fast with tape as you could cut the safety wire and tie a new one. How you hold it in a partial position? I don't know why you would want to. Most go all open (summer) or most blocked (winter). With a little "experimenting" most know what blocking plate is needed after their first session of winter flying. GRick6a said:
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redbeardmark
Well Known Member
Yes, North to South
From late fall to early spring, it would be quite handy for us northerners.gmcjetpilot said:
Vince Koehn
Well Known Member
oil cooler
I mounted my oil cooler on the firewall and then ducted the air off the back of my Sam James cowling. In the cooler months in SW Kansas I could not get my oil temp where it should be so I added a butterfly control with a panel mounted push pull knob. Here in KS you can get along without the in flight adjustment but I like it and can control my oil temp from 175-210 degrees on a 100 degree day all with the butterfly control. It is especially nice for leaving here in the winter 20 degrees and heading west to Las Vegas or Pheonix 70 degrees.
I mounted my oil cooler on the firewall and then ducted the air off the back of my Sam James cowling. In the cooler months in SW Kansas I could not get my oil temp where it should be so I added a butterfly control with a panel mounted push pull knob. Here in KS you can get along without the in flight adjustment but I like it and can control my oil temp from 175-210 degrees on a 100 degree day all with the butterfly control. It is especially nice for leaving here in the winter 20 degrees and heading west to Las Vegas or Pheonix 70 degrees.
Rick6a
Well Known Member
Vince, I can relate to your oil temp experience and agree with your reasoning.N819VK said:
Many RV's have a problem maintaining the ideal 180 degree oil temp as published by Lycoming. While our engines enjoy a certain range of temperatures and still operate acceptably, I like the idea of being able to control the oil temperature to some extent via the cockpit in an attempt to constantly chase that ideal 180 degrees. Many airplanes like my Cessna and some RV's (you know...light and simple) are equipped with an inexpensive oil temperature gauge and as long as it reads somewhere in the broad range of "green" the pilot is happily content that all is right in his engine world, even if that engine is in fact only attaining 160-170 degrees....simply not hot enough to boil off moisture. With a digital engine monitor such a "Darla" is equipped with, I can easily descern minute temperature differences and will happily adjust the oil vent/shutter in a noble effort to attain the ideal oil temp as published by the engine manufacturer.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
It's Hotter Elsewhere
Not to argue with the desirability of achieving 180, but I'm not concerned if typical winter temps stabilized at something less. The oil in its circulation encounters engine parts way hotter than 180 that will boil off water, which BTW Betty Crocker says boils at lower temps at higher altitudes to boot. Adjustability would be nice, and I've considered this for future builds since we do travel from north to south. One thing I would keep in mind if installing a moveable airflow block is making sure it will open - always. The first pix I saw of the Van's contraption brought to mind all the friction and hang-ups possible with two multi-perforated plates sliding across each other. Those who have one, what is the interface between the movable parts?
John Siebold
Not to argue with the desirability of achieving 180, but I'm not concerned if typical winter temps stabilized at something less. The oil in its circulation encounters engine parts way hotter than 180 that will boil off water, which BTW Betty Crocker says boils at lower temps at higher altitudes to boot. Adjustability would be nice, and I've considered this for future builds since we do travel from north to south. One thing I would keep in mind if installing a moveable airflow block is making sure it will open - always. The first pix I saw of the Van's contraption brought to mind all the friction and hang-ups possible with two multi-perforated plates sliding across each other. Those who have one, what is the interface between the movable parts?
John Siebold
On my RV-7A, the oil cooler is mounted as per Vans plans, on the left rear baffle. However, there is very little room between the rear of the cooler and the engine mount, maybe 3/8". A shutter between the baffle and the oil cooler would therefore not be possible.
Would it be possible to mount the shutter on the rear of the cooler? Maybe I could offset the shutter so it would not hit the engine mount. Would I still get the same effect?
Thanks,
Paul
Would it be possible to mount the shutter on the rear of the cooler? Maybe I could offset the shutter so it would not hit the engine mount. Would I still get the same effect?
Thanks,
Paul
redbeardmark
Well Known Member
smooth n slick
John,
The oil cooler shutter is really a nice piece of work. It opens smoothly without a hint of binding. The face plate and backplate are stout enough to make it fairly rigid. There is always the possibility of a failure, most likely a broken Bowden cable/connector. The shutter doesn't seem to have any propensity to go to either the open or closed position. A person could always put a small spring on the lever so that if the Bowden cable broke, it would fail open.
Haven't installed mine yet due to waiting on delivery of longer bolts. In my installation, there will be 1/8" cork gasket material between the baffle and the shutter(which is 1/8" thick), and also between the shutter and the oil cooler(with a hole cut in the gasket material to allow air to go through, of course). Hope to get it installed this weekend just in time for cooler temperatures in January.
RV7ator said:
John,
The oil cooler shutter is really a nice piece of work. It opens smoothly without a hint of binding. The face plate and backplate are stout enough to make it fairly rigid. There is always the possibility of a failure, most likely a broken Bowden cable/connector. The shutter doesn't seem to have any propensity to go to either the open or closed position. A person could always put a small spring on the lever so that if the Bowden cable broke, it would fail open.
Haven't installed mine yet due to waiting on delivery of longer bolts. In my installation, there will be 1/8" cork gasket material between the baffle and the shutter(which is 1/8" thick), and also between the shutter and the oil cooler(with a hole cut in the gasket material to allow air to go through, of course). Hope to get it installed this weekend just in time for cooler temperatures in January.
It looks like from the photos that this shutter when fully open still blocks close to 1/2 of the air flow. So basically, what this shutter allows is to go from half blocked to fully blocked.
This shutter may work great when it's cold out there, but happens when I fly to warmer environs? Half blocked when it's warm out there might not be such a good thing...
Paul
This shutter may work great when it's cold out there, but happens when I fly to warmer environs? Half blocked when it's warm out there might not be such a good thing...
Paul
I think this shutter is a good idea and I'll probably buy one. However, I cannot afford to lose any airflow through the oil cooler in the summer months when I fly from Sedona, AZ to Phoenix, where it gets to be about 110 F.
My thought is to modify the baffle so that the shutter is easily removable for those summer months. Maybe a sleeve on the front of the baffle that the shutter can slide down into. I would get the dual benefit of being able to completely block the air for those very cold winter days as well as being able to easily remove the shutter altogether for summer flying. Can anyone think of a downside to this?
Paul
My thought is to modify the baffle so that the shutter is easily removable for those summer months. Maybe a sleeve on the front of the baffle that the shutter can slide down into. I would get the dual benefit of being able to completely block the air for those very cold winter days as well as being able to easily remove the shutter altogether for summer flying. Can anyone think of a downside to this?
Paul
redbeardmark
Well Known Member
Good idea
The shutter is an excellent item for us northerners. It might not be for folks located in the really hot areas. Other things that might weigh in: aircraft, engine, prop, how the cowl outlet was cut, leakiness of baffles, etc.
Mine is 8A with 0-360 and FP, and too much heat is not a problem. If you're running an IO-360 w/high compression pistons turning a CS prop, its gonna run hotter and a shutter might not be a good idea.
If you keep it in during summer, please post your data. It could be very interesting and helpful.
Paul,pboyce said:
The shutter is an excellent item for us northerners. It might not be for folks located in the really hot areas. Other things that might weigh in: aircraft, engine, prop, how the cowl outlet was cut, leakiness of baffles, etc.
Mine is 8A with 0-360 and FP, and too much heat is not a problem. If you're running an IO-360 w/high compression pistons turning a CS prop, its gonna run hotter and a shutter might not be a good idea.
If you keep it in during summer, please post your data. It could be very interesting and helpful.
Rick6a
Well Known Member
This is a technical area that probably has more to do with a particular installation than a "one size fits all" approach that would apply to all RV's. My 0-320 barely attained 170 degrees in the hottest of summer weather. Intuitively and after some experimentation, I eventually installed a plate covering the full backside of the oil cooler and by doing so, finally brought the temp up to the 180 degree range. It wasn't until much later I discovered a local 0-320 equipped 1974 Piper Warrior with the identical baffle mounted oil cooler installation as my RV and interestingly, it sports a similar (though factory installed) plate that covers the back side of its oil cooler. Ergo, I'm thinking when I get around to installing the vent/shutter, I may or may not have to remove the back plate to compensate for the "half blocked" condition you note. However, only real world flight testing will determine what is additionally required.pboyce said:
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
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Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
half blocked
I wonder how much of the cooler area is acutally "Blocked" by the tubes and fins themselves???
Is there any plenium area between the shutter and the cooler??
IF, the tubes and fins block somewhere around 3/4 to 2/3 of the total area, and IF there is an adiquate plenium between the cooler and the shutter, the 50% area of the shutter is not much of an issue.
Remember exit area should be greater than inlet area due to heated air expanding.
Mike
I wonder how much of the cooler area is acutally "Blocked" by the tubes and fins themselves???
Is there any plenium area between the shutter and the cooler??
IF, the tubes and fins block somewhere around 3/4 to 2/3 of the total area, and IF there is an adiquate plenium between the cooler and the shutter, the 50% area of the shutter is not much of an issue.
Remember exit area should be greater than inlet area due to heated air expanding.
Mike
Leland
Well Known Member
Oil Cooler/Vent
I installed Van's oil Cooler/Vent this week. I found that the lever to open and close the shutter is rather stiff once the Vent was bolted in place (in front of the oil cooler). I can reach through the cowl oil door and change the position of the lever, but I suspect that it would be too hard to move the lever with a cable. Also, the thickness of the Vent moved the cooler back so far that it is now too close to the engine mount bar. (Baffle mounted.) The clearance was already marginal, though the oil cooler has not yet contacted the engine mount at startup. I am running a new O320 with a 3-blade Catto prop. The engine will idle nearly down to 400 RPM. With a plate blocking the aft end of the cooler, my highest winter oil temperature was 174 degrees F (San Francisco Bay Area). I have not yet tested the Cooler/Vent to see how the temperatures run. In the summer, I had 2/3 of the exit air from the cooler blocked and the temperature never exceeded 180.
I installed Van's oil Cooler/Vent this week. I found that the lever to open and close the shutter is rather stiff once the Vent was bolted in place (in front of the oil cooler). I can reach through the cowl oil door and change the position of the lever, but I suspect that it would be too hard to move the lever with a cable. Also, the thickness of the Vent moved the cooler back so far that it is now too close to the engine mount bar. (Baffle mounted.) The clearance was already marginal, though the oil cooler has not yet contacted the engine mount at startup. I am running a new O320 with a 3-blade Catto prop. The engine will idle nearly down to 400 RPM. With a plate blocking the aft end of the cooler, my highest winter oil temperature was 174 degrees F (San Francisco Bay Area). I have not yet tested the Cooler/Vent to see how the temperatures run. In the summer, I had 2/3 of the exit air from the cooler blocked and the temperature never exceeded 180.
Oil Cooler Door Facts
The actual air flow area of the oil cooler is about 3.65 sq in. The airflow area of vans variable vane is 9 sq in in the full open position. However, if the vane is mounted flush with the cooler, then there is a significant reduction in airflow capacity. Someone correctly suggested that you must have a plenum between the oil cooler and the variable vane. I would recommend about .125 to .25 in space between the two. This would allow it to be used in even the hotest of climates.
The actual air flow area of the oil cooler is about 3.65 sq in. The airflow area of vans variable vane is 9 sq in in the full open position. However, if the vane is mounted flush with the cooler, then there is a significant reduction in airflow capacity. Someone correctly suggested that you must have a plenum between the oil cooler and the variable vane. I would recommend about .125 to .25 in space between the two. This would allow it to be used in even the hotest of climates.
redbeardmark
Well Known Member
oil cooler shutter data point
Installed the oil cooler shutter today. Visualize: baffle, then two 1/8" thick cork gaskets, then the shutter, then one 1/8" thick cork gasket, then the oil cooler. The flexibility of the cork gasket material allowed some bowing of the shutter which caused it to bind a little bit, maybe so much that a Bowden cable isn't stiff enough to push the shutter lever. So, no Bowden cable installed today. Might be able to fix the bowing problem by installing some metal spacers.
With shutter open area approximately 25%: OAT +33F, oil temp 167F, 2350rpm, 1430F egt.
Waiting for more challenging cold weather...
Installed the oil cooler shutter today. Visualize: baffle, then two 1/8" thick cork gaskets, then the shutter, then one 1/8" thick cork gasket, then the oil cooler. The flexibility of the cork gasket material allowed some bowing of the shutter which caused it to bind a little bit, maybe so much that a Bowden cable isn't stiff enough to push the shutter lever. So, no Bowden cable installed today. Might be able to fix the bowing problem by installing some metal spacers.
With shutter open area approximately 25%: OAT +33F, oil temp 167F, 2350rpm, 1430F egt.
Waiting for more challenging cold weather...
redbeardmark
Well Known Member
oil cooler shutter update
The oil cooler shutter is finally properly installed.
Flew to Sun'n'Fun with the new installation. Made very small adjustments to open the shutter as I got further south. Oil temp 184F while travelling the Gulf Coast down low, never did have to open it all the way.
Some pointers on installation:
1) Use 1/4 inch aluminum spacers(available at local hardware store) between the baffle and the shutter to bridge the two layers of 1/8 inch cork gasket material, use two washers between the shutter and the oil cooler to bridge the single layer of gasket. This should eliminate any binding(I had serious binding until the spacers and washers were installed).
2) Give the shutter a spray of LPS-1 or other lubricant to help it to slide smoothly.
3) Do install a push-pull cable for adjustment from the cockpit because it is very nice to have.
Can't wait to test it in the scorching Southwest summer.
The oil cooler shutter is finally properly installed.
Flew to Sun'n'Fun with the new installation. Made very small adjustments to open the shutter as I got further south. Oil temp 184F while travelling the Gulf Coast down low, never did have to open it all the way.
Some pointers on installation:
1) Use 1/4 inch aluminum spacers(available at local hardware store) between the baffle and the shutter to bridge the two layers of 1/8 inch cork gasket material, use two washers between the shutter and the oil cooler to bridge the single layer of gasket. This should eliminate any binding(I had serious binding until the spacers and washers were installed).
2) Give the shutter a spray of LPS-1 or other lubricant to help it to slide smoothly.
3) Do install a push-pull cable for adjustment from the cockpit because it is very nice to have.
Can't wait to test it in the scorching Southwest summer.
redbeardmark
Well Known Member
oil cooler shutter update
In cold weather, able to achieve any oil temp that might be desired without difficulty.
The warmest temp I've tested it in is 95F last summer. Flew from ND to Green River, UT and then to Mineral Canyon. Fairly high density altitude there(i.e. decreased air mass flow rate through the cooler). Oil temp got up to 202F with the oil cooler shutter fully open.
In cold weather, able to achieve any oil temp that might be desired without difficulty.
The warmest temp I've tested it in is 95F last summer. Flew from ND to Green River, UT and then to Mineral Canyon. Fairly high density altitude there(i.e. decreased air mass flow rate through the cooler). Oil temp got up to 202F with the oil cooler shutter fully open.
Results of shutter installation
I flew the RV9 today for the 2nd time since installing the shutter. I've got an O-320-D1A Lycoming with a Positech 4211 oil cooler. The present installation has only the closed shutter in front of the oil cooler and no back placve on the rear of the oile cooler. I flew for about 40 minutes based on the following conditions:
Temp at altitude: 22 F - 24 F
MP: approx 24.2
RPM: 2350 - 2400
CHT: 320 - 328 F
EGT: 1478 - 1493 F
After about 10 minutes Oil temp was 133F
20 minutes 144 F
30 minutes 149 F
35 minutes 155 F
Highest oil temp achieved, right before coming back to the airport was 158 F
Based on this, the first convenient chance I get, I'll be taking the cowling back off and either installing a new back plate or some duct tape on the back side of the oil cooler for the remainder of the winter.
Regards
Rick Luck
I flew the RV9 today for the 2nd time since installing the shutter. I've got an O-320-D1A Lycoming with a Positech 4211 oil cooler. The present installation has only the closed shutter in front of the oil cooler and no back placve on the rear of the oile cooler. I flew for about 40 minutes based on the following conditions:
Temp at altitude: 22 F - 24 F
MP: approx 24.2
RPM: 2350 - 2400
CHT: 320 - 328 F
EGT: 1478 - 1493 F
After about 10 minutes Oil temp was 133F
20 minutes 144 F
30 minutes 149 F
35 minutes 155 F
Highest oil temp achieved, right before coming back to the airport was 158 F
Based on this, the first convenient chance I get, I'll be taking the cowling back off and either installing a new back plate or some duct tape on the back side of the oil cooler for the remainder of the winter.
Regards
Rick Luck
Shutter update
It seemed like the temps had pretty much stabilized by the end of the flight. Maybe I could have gotten another couple of degrees warmer in time, but I don't know if it would have happened or not. I think I'll have to block the back of the oil cooler off to get up to 180F when the outside temps is in the teens or low 20's.
Rick
It seemed like the temps had pretty much stabilized by the end of the flight. Maybe I could have gotten another couple of degrees warmer in time, but I don't know if it would have happened or not. I think I'll have to block the back of the oil cooler off to get up to 180F when the outside temps is in the teens or low 20's.
Rick
Final Test Numbers
It's been pretty cold in Minnesota the past several days. That coincided with gettting a back plate installed on my oil cooler. The shutter was installed on the front of the oil cooler a couple of weeks ago. Anyhow, with both the front and back blocked off for the oil cooler, flying in outside air temps ranging from -1 to +5 F, resulted in oil temps from 130 to 135 F. Typically it would take almost half an hour to achieve maxium oil temps, even at those low values. Cylinder head temps were maintained at about 295 to 300 F and EGT's were maintained around 1500 F. After installing the wing boots, electric seats, wall insulation and weather stripping and blocking the vents on the outside, the airplane was very comfortable today (it was nice & sunny) compared to a less than comfortable a couple of days ago when it was overcast. Based on all this, I think the lower limit of the airplace comfort level is about +10 F (at altitude) for a long flight.
Rick Luck
It's been pretty cold in Minnesota the past several days. That coincided with gettting a back plate installed on my oil cooler. The shutter was installed on the front of the oil cooler a couple of weeks ago. Anyhow, with both the front and back blocked off for the oil cooler, flying in outside air temps ranging from -1 to +5 F, resulted in oil temps from 130 to 135 F. Typically it would take almost half an hour to achieve maxium oil temps, even at those low values. Cylinder head temps were maintained at about 295 to 300 F and EGT's were maintained around 1500 F. After installing the wing boots, electric seats, wall insulation and weather stripping and blocking the vents on the outside, the airplane was very comfortable today (it was nice & sunny) compared to a less than comfortable a couple of days ago when it was overcast. Based on all this, I think the lower limit of the airplace comfort level is about +10 F (at altitude) for a long flight.
Rick Luck
