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Panel layout

C

crabandy

Well Known Member
I'm trying to get the basic layout of my panel accomplished, eventually have 2 screen G3x, Gemini, GMA240,GTN650 and Gx pilot and remote transponder. I plan on flying with 1 screen G3x only until I can buy the other boxes and put them in my modular panel. I couldn't find a dimension for the depth of the GDU 370.

I plan on a row of switches along the bottom and the main purpose of this post is if I have enough room on the stock panel height. The top of the GDU 370's and radio stack are parallel with the bottom of the left F-7107L rib nutplate. I will have to trim the F-7107L rib depending on the depth of the GDU370. The top left corner of the left GDU 370's outer face clears the F-7103B attach angle. From the bottom outer face of the GDU370's to the bottom half of the panel I have 1 1/2 inch for switches. Am I trying to cram it all in there?
BEC7CF98-ED43-4B8A-98CA-8ADAFB965057-17096-00000A96D203FF17.jpg

2316EFB2-37AB-4150-BB96-BF4B6AD04C61-17096-00000A96BF307917.jpg

03BF7937-966E-4B1B-BE32-573A5FD82BEB-17096-00000A96AAF1BC52.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply, I've probably been in contact with Stein a little too much (twice today)! For whatever silly reason I want to make the panel myself, hopefully Stein will still wire it for me after all my questions. Looks like yours is a stock panel height with the switches under the G3x like I'm planning! Maybe I should just add 1/2 inch to the panel frame and go for it.
 
I'm not following when you say just add 1/2" to the panel.... Are you planning on having someone fabricate a new panel that is taller? That is not necessary. As the eyeball reads it, I have 2-1/8" from the bottom of the g3x cutout to the bottom of the horizontal leg of the return surface at the bottom of the panel. Move your g3x to the right (and vertical) until you can achieve close to this.

But seriously, have Stein quote you a panel design and cut. Subsequently, they will have your layout on file when it comes to building your harness. Have you seen the awkward shaped cutout for the master switch?:eek:
 
I'm toying with the idea of making a modular panel using the bottom of the stock panel as the lower rail therefore I can easily had 1/2 inch. I cannot move the GDU's any higher without cutting more of the rib, moving them sideways doesn't make any difference. I'm really leaning toward the modular panel for the additional avionics that change way faster than I can build.
If I don't do a modular panel I may have Stein make/cut one but then I would have to finalize my switches which keep changing!
 
Cut the rib

Yes you will need to cut a small notch out of the bottom of one rib where it intersects the backside of the g3x. Once the top skin is on that rib ain't goin nowhere.
 
Is this a slider or tip up?

I see what looks like a slider panel, I think. I think you are ok like you are. The toggles have the advantage of being able to squeeze into the bottom lip because they stand up on the back nut. Their handle is small and they won't look squeezed in. Your left hand top corner of the efis can go a touch up by notching the 3/4 angle. Make your rib a touch smaller and your ok, if you think you need it. I did the same. I also went with a taller panel.

panel.jpg
 
Dbro172 said:
See my log here. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=dbro172&project=2102&category=7897

I did this with the help of Steinair. They finalized layout, dimensions and cut my panel. They provide a good value for this scope of work. Save you a bunch of time too. Might check with them.
Click to expand...

Nice looking panel, I'm thinking of something very similar.

I am curious about the aftermarket racks you used; do those require any bracing to support the rear of the stack? Seems like an elegant solution for those of us who are planning to add avionics as the wallet allows....
 
The switch clearance is sufficient, and your layout is nearly identical to various EFIS + big screen GPS I've installed. Though you have physical clearance, consider what nomenclature will label the switches and how it will be applied. You might want more face-of-the-panel area for such by moving the EFIS slightly higher. Keep in mind the EFIS bezel overhangs the switches. No fears notching the underside of the ribs, exception being the center rib with the angle reinforcement creating something of a barrier towards the subpanel. I suggest shoving the 650 to port, just low enough for the wiring end to clear the middle rib; you're about there now, but would need to lower it some. This brings it into a better viewing angle for the pilot and a little less reaching for fiddling with it's controls. The Gemini can go up and left even more to bring the entire layout more in front of the pilot.

Why do you want an audio panel with one radio? A simple mixer can handle all the audio needs.

John Siebold
 
Last edited:
I never even thought about room for the labels. Great suggestions from everyone, I think I'm going to extend the panel about 1/2 inch and install the basic structure and cut the panel faces later. The radio rack and lower rail of the panel will be fixed with removable sides that I can pull out and cut/change when I get the radios.
 
idea

Something I did that really has helped. I cut the "ears" of the L & R edges of the panel and mounted them independently. That makes it possible to
pull the whole panel after the plane is completed. I have pulled the panel
at least four times in the past three years, and glad I did it this way.

I used the "ears" (which I had to remake to get a close fit) as the place to mount my headset plugs.

Jim Frisbie
RV-9A
 
NTex said:
Nice looking panel, I'm thinking of something very similar.

I am curious about the aftermarket racks you used; do those require any bracing to support the rear of the stack? Seems like an elegant solution for those of us who are planning to add avionics as the wallet allows....
Click to expand...

although probably not necessary, it cant hurt. The SL30 rack is really deep. I will probably tie all threes racks together at the rear to sturdy them up.
 
crabandy said:
I'm trying to get the basic layout of my panel accomplished, eventually have 2 screen G3x, Gemini, GMA240,GTN650 and Gx pilot and remote transponder. I plan on flying with 1 screen G3x only until I can buy the other boxes and put them in my modular panel. I couldn't find a dimension for the depth of the GDU 370.

I plan on a row of switches along the bottom and the main purpose of this post is if I have enough room on the stock panel height. The top of the GDU 370's and radio stack are parallel with the bottom of the left F-7107L rib nutplate. I will have to trim the F-7107L rib depending on the depth of the GDU370. The top left corner of the left GDU 370's outer face clears the F-7103B attach angle. From the bottom outer face of the GDU370's to the bottom half of the panel I have 1 1/2 inch for switches. Am I trying to cram it all in there?
Click to expand...

I did exactly that I think. Take a look and see if this is what you're looking for. The depth is nothing. Maybe an inch I think. Remember you have the wire connectors sticking out the back. They stick out way more than the GDU.

Panel.jpg
 
Thanks again everyone!

Bob, your panel is exactly what I've wanted for my plane. Pretty sure your panel was the stock panel height but couldn't see the bottom reference the vents in the pic. I decided to go 3/4 inch taller for a couple of reasons:
- I wanted to make a modular panel because budget will take several years to fill the panel and things change and modular being easier to change.
- making my own, 3/4 inch allowed for more room and made the bottom flush with the vents.
- use existing leftover supplies to make the panel structure, more head scratching but cheaper
 
Here is a panel layout that has all the elements you are considering (Dual G3x, GX AP, Garmin Stack, Gemini, labeled switches) all stuffed in a standard RV-8 panel. Note Gemini in custom side console. As far as panel removal that is a nice feature but there is less need with the new EFIS displays since they remove easily and leave you two huge holes to access the backside of your panel if needed.
Note: I used the lighted Honeywell switches with engraving vs. stickers or screen printing to mark the switch function.
Panel-Dark.jpg


Panel-Lighted-Small.jpg
 
The main reason I want to make the panel removable is the 2-3 year time frame I will be flying before I fill it with avionics. Seems like the boxes change so fast, I'm going to fly my 40 hrs with single screen G3X and then add the rest as I get money. I would cut the holes for the stuff to buy today than figure out how to fit the "new" thing in my old cutouts.
 
crabandy said:
Panel view
66E404DA-B0A7-4172-9630-1A4BF5AA4F3B-3262-000001AF88E76A6B.jpg

Master/Alt-Backup Batt/Avionics master-left mag-single efii-backup avionics-space-strobe-nav-left ldg light-right ldg light
95A30592-C23D-4B12-AAA2-6E8E81F9C5F7-3262-000001AFBC16F602.jpg

Not sure about using key switch with one mag and one Efii
E8836075-3F26-4E75-9912-177A54CF3561-3262-000001AFCD94E760.jpg

Fuel pump-carb heat-mixture-alt air. Trim above throttle flaps above mixture
47677D0A-79F6-4152-A274-EEDB86B346E6-3262-000001AFA6D5EFE2.jpg

Pilot-copilot butt warmer-cabin heat
94BE5D60-057E-44EB-B63A-08CA948F3FB6-3262-000001AF98D60059.jpg
Click to expand...
Comments welcome, trying to nail this down and make more metal shavings!
 
You can always mount your Key Switch in the Top Removable Panel and then use a CPC Connector to still make it easy to remove. I used a 14 Pin CPC for things like Key Switch, Dimmer Ports, Gauge Back Lights etc.

Also I didn't see your Headset Jacks anywhere.


Thanks

Ray
 
Thanks Ray! I'm not set on switch position 100% yet, I've thought about mounting the key and dimmers on the upper panel. I'm thinking about headset jacks on the rear of the armrest to keep them off my lap and out of the stick.
 
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