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If you could tell a newbie builder, what would it be!

UnPossible said:
I don't mean to derail this thread, but why do you have to enter your N number to get Av Fuel? I don't enter my license plate number to fill up my car. I may or may not just enter the easiest/shortest combo I can think of rather than my real N number.
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They ask for the N-number, but you don't have to put it in. I don't offer information that I don't want them to have.
 
RV7A Flyer said:
I know this is a thread hijack, but...

You could "opt out" of the phone book (which is a private company) via unpublished or unlisted numbers. Mailing lists? Don't sign up in the first place (I know that's super-hard to avoid nowadays when even the grocery store has you home address).

But tying your N-number to your name and address and then making it available on-line is *exactly* the same as what the DMV does NOT do (publishing names and addresses of license plate holders). Know *why* they don't do that anymore? Because some nutjob got an actress' home address from DMV and killed her. (Not to mention that it allowed all sorts of other mischief, such as estranged spouses and abusive partners to find people).

I just don't think FAA (or other agencies) should be doing this. We've been lucky, as far as we know, so far.
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So I asked the FAA aircraft registration branch why their records are publicly searchable and viewable. This was the response (egregious misspelling included):
FAA said:
Are records are made public for safety. sf
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I don't understand how making pilot/aircraft owner records public is for "safety", when making driver's license and vehicle registration records protected is also done for safety.
 
Thought of another one:

Buy extras for common AN bolts, nuts, washers, Adel clamps and rivets. I also buy a range of sizes. This way, you won't have to wait a few days for that Spruce order to come in.
 
Tools you'll have to have.
Metal dental picks are a must,can't tell you where to use them BUT YOU WILL. and sugical forceps A MUST HAVE. I bought mine at large fly ins like Sun n Fun. Not sure what vendor on Vansairforce sells them but buy used ones never new ones. You can do a search on forceps. These are used ALL the time to hold a nut or place a washer on a bolt or screw. Mine are 8" long and have worked great!

Plastic containers for your bolt,screw,nut,washer,clamp and can't forget bushing collections. Buy 6 or 8 large containers, (mine are 10" deep by 15" wide X 2" high). I noted this from another builder when I got on Vansairforce RV discussions prior to my build. ( 6 years ago ) All cases stack very nicely. You may want to get smaller versions for platenuts and cotter pins.

Pen and pencil holders, for me at 5" pc of 2 X 4 with holes drilled in it for fine,med, heavy markers too! Got 3 of them blocks. Never seem to find a pen but last week gathering them up in the hangar i found 15 writing devices! Yes all back in the blocks.

Hope it helps!

Ron in Oregon
 
YellowJacket RV9 said:
This is a biggee, I think. I have replaced a few parts due to edge distance issues, after following the plans exactly. Always double check where a hole will be on all parts involved, and adjust as needed for edge distance.

Chris
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Oh man.... so true. You don't save any time skipping that step - quite the opposite..... (don't ask :eek:)

My advice would be:
If you screw up, don't panic. Most things can be fixed.
If you keep screwing up, stop and evaluate what you are doing wrong - not fully understanding the plans? Not rested? Rushing?
If you try to build the perfect airplane it will take a very very long time. If you are OCD you won't be able to help it. Try to strike a ballance between good quality with steady progress and perfection with snail like progress.
 
1) When mixing dry micro, add roughly seven times the amount of microballoons you think you'll need.

2) Forceps are wonderful, but another nice addition is a magnetic retrieval tool. Super helpful to lower washers and locknuts into place in restricted areas.

3) As the average life expectancy of a fine-line Sharpie in a hot garage/hangar is four days, keep the rest of your stash in a nice, air-conditioned place.

4) Take the time to periodically clean your workspace and put all the lesser-used tools away. To use a Trump-ism, this is "huuuuge!" to maintain positive gumption and a healthy mind set on the build. Sweep the floors, put all those stray clecos back in their boxes, post inspirational shots of finished RVs on the walls. Get in the habit of using that last 10 minutes to clean, and the next day's work session will be far more enjoyable (or at least tolerable, if you're dimpling wing skins and nursing a blister from pounding on a C-frame 1500 times :):)).
 
rightrudder said:
4) Take the time to periodically clean your workspace and put all the lesser-used tools away. To use a Trump-ism, this is "huuuuge!" to maintain positive gumption and a healthy mind set on the build. Sweep the floors, put all those stray clecos back in their boxes, post inspirational shots of finished RVs on the walls. Get in the habit of using that last 10 minutes to clean, and the next day's work session will be far more enjoyable (or at least tolerable, if you're dimpling wing skins and nursing a blister from pounding on a C-frame 1500 times :):)).
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+1! The job's not done until the shop is clean. I oftentimes ended up cleaning up once or twice partway through a build session, if I got frustrated from not being able to find the tool "I just had!" because of the accumulation of mess, tools, parts, scrap, supplies, etc.
 
6 pages

Six pages of posts and I can't believe nobody made this suggestion.

Always remember that someday this airplane might be put up for sale. So don't do things that will make that sale difficult.

Having purchased two flying RVs, I think two of the worst mistakes are:
1. Painting the N number on the airplane. The new owner will want to change it. Don't make it difficult. A painted 12 inch N number can be a deal killer.
2. Painting the instrument panel some outrageous color. For example, blue, orange, etc. Do you really think that will be an attractive selling point?

Jim
N444JT
N37PK
 
rv8pilotpaul said:
Have a refrigerator stocked with beer.
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And non-beer. I might have one beer if I'm doing something that doesn't require a lot of thought or dexterity and does not involve power or pneumatic tools, but I generally stick to water or Diet Dew while working. Also a good suggestion for builders, IMHO.
 
Ok newbies, this is essential if you have a engine in storage in your hangar and you lack a De-humidifier in the hangar you'll need to keep your engine cyclinders close to moisture free. Buy a set of four tempory fake spark plugs. These plugs have a glass tube filled with moisture absorbing compound. This compound when TOTALLY DRY is one color,as the moisture starts to absorb into the compound,the compound changes color. In my case my compound is BRIGHT BLUE when dry but as it absorbs moisture from the cylinder it changes to a lite Pink Color.meaning moisture is in the compound and it needs to be dried out.I take the compound out of the vial and put it on a plate and place a shielded small work (60 watt) light you over the plate but not in direct contact with the compound, maybe 5" awaycan also place the compound on a tray and place it in your oven on lowest heat and this will also be a effective way to dry the compound. As my compound dries out it turns back to a color of dark blue. Meaning the moisture is gone out of the compound.simaliar compound you'll see those little bags in shipping boxes to keep the contents from being damaged by moisture,like rust or corrosion. These are a must have. Now I'll have to ask the van members where these plugs can be bought. I have a set installed but can't remember where I bought them from?

Ron in Oregon
 
Ron, the dessicant plugs are available at Spruce. You can also buy replacement silica gel by the pound, and Spruce indicates 1/8 lb fills 4 plugs.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/dehydrplugs.php?clickkey=2608051

Keep in mind that for an assembled engine, some valves will be open at all crankshaft positions. So in order for these to be effective you also need to cap the intake (either one cap at the sump or a cap on all cylinders, depending whether the intake tubes are installed) and exhaust ports. Also as Ron indicated if the stuff has turned pink it's no longer doing its job. You have to dry it out back to blue for it to be effective.
 
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1) Buy a couple of extra cleco pliers, having a buddy help you putting in and removing clecos is great!

2) Get a structural foam (plastic) service cart from your favorite industrial supplier, they are handy for so many things. I like to keep the tools I'm using for a task on the cart which leaves the workbench clean for the workpiece AND I don't have to wonder where I just set something down! Also, the cart I have has two levels, both with lips. Instead of carrying parts to and from storage areas to my work area, I put them on the cart. Takes a couple of extra seconds, but it is harder for parts to get dropped and damaged that way. Ask me how I know :eek:...

This has been a great read, keep the knowledge flowing!!!
 
New Builder Advice

If you find yourself thinking, "I hope this works" just before you drill or bend or cut STOP DON'T DO IT. Go in the house, come back later and check what your're doing so you don't have to trust luck.
 
UnPossible said:
I don't mean to derail this thread, but why do you have to enter your N number to get Av Fuel? I don't enter my license plate number to fill up my car. I may or may not just enter the easiest/shortest combo I can think of rather than my real N number.
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If there is a quality control problem with the fuel, they can contact you.
In Petaluma many years ago, many people got a NEW Lycoming from Chevron due to contamination in the fuel....:eek:
 
When you go to set up your rudder pedals, sit in the aircraft and measure the angle that your foot rests on the pedal bars, and adjust your brake app plate so you will push with your toes when brakes are needed and not cause them to drag during normal rudder operation.
 
When you reach a level of frustration when stuff just isn't working, STOP. Come back tomorrow. That stuff will fall into place. Can't explain it. Some form of cosmic gravitational galactic force.

Oh, and if building a pre punched kit and things don't line up, you screwed up somewhere.:D

For those building at home, consider the neighbors. Not everyone appreciates the sound of a well set rivet. Or the sound of a big compressor running continuously...... At midnight.....not that I've ever done that.....
 
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I would tell a newbie to plan on braided stainless coated brake lines from the brake reservoir to the pedals.
 
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Well Russ, My thoughts come from 3 RV builders who have had the leaks after the fact and forum conversation. Oh yes there is a good quality nylon line by Vans but of the ones I know of it happens to be the passenger side. As builders we know how to plant the feet at the pedals entering and existing. Yes I have the braided coated stainless lines.

Ron
 
Interesting to hear.

I'm not speaking from experience since I have the Beringer kit that includes steel braided lines. Plus, I'm not installing passenger brake pedals.
 
1. Build as much as possible at home, what ever part of the house that maybe. Your project will call to you.
2. If married, kids etc, that's more important than any stupid airplane (oh heresy! But it sucks to be lonely so dont shoot yourself in the foot)
3. Ask everyone you can any question you have. Just cause you choose to build an X doesn't mean only X people have the answers. An EAA chapter is key for this.
4. Research and read. And read some more. Blue prints, build manual, VAF, AOPA, EAA, avionics sites, whatever. Keeps your head in the game if you can't be building.
5. Yeah take a break sometimes - go mow the lawn, go out to eat, play video games, watch football. Don't cut yourself off from other parts of your life - you'll soon tire of your project.
6. Similarly to 5, its a marathon, not a sprint. Expect to take 5yrs or whatever to finish, and just get comfortable with that idea. But do something every day - there are indeed a finite number of tasks to do. One screw turned today, is one less to do tomorrow.

I've been at it for about 18months, and I've found a groove where I seem to see the airplane as a series of little projects - make this part, put that part in, prime a bunch of parts etc. When I'm done with my little days goal, I'm done for the day and I feel good that I got something accomplished. Some are milestones, some just sticks in the sand. But it works for me. And I also do a log everyday I do something, with pics of what I did. Just in msword, not on the web. Very simple. Ticks the FAA block, but more importantly, it helps me process what I did, and then maybe go back and redo something or help plan the next thing.
 
why no PMAGs?

the best answer so far was to build the practice kit - drill out the rivets and
do it again!
 
Well as far as brake lines go, I would never discourage people from upgrading.
On the other hand, I've built a few aircraft and my RV-6 has been flying for over 22 years with the nylon brake lines that came in the kit.
And yes, I do have passenger brakes.

Best advice I can give is get involved with an EAA Tech Counselor early and stick to the plans.
 
When will it be done?.....

.......a question you'll hear more that you could ever dream. My answer, "When it's done right!" Don't get in a hurry, It'll take longer than you think so you better just plan on doing it right the first time, do overs add time. Enjoy your build, if you don't you shouldn't be doing it.
My standard kits took 3 yrs 10 mos. Solo build except when I couldn't reach both sides. Has now been flying 10 yrs 2 mos.
 
If I could add one more thing for a NEWBIE it would be buy swimming pool noodles. You know the the ones about 5 feet long. When you get your prop ON take the noodle and cut it in half. Now take one of the halves and near the end of it your going to cut a slice about 5 inches long. This slice you will slide the prop end thru. These will hang off the prop blades in the horizontal pos on the two blade and works really WELL on the three blade.(Don't ask me how I know) If you haven't guess it this is a tried and true to keep your head where it is suppose to be..

NUMBER TWO ! Buy another noodle cut it to fit your steps. Whether building or camping there seems there are NO EYES to see the darn thing when you need to see it most!

Iam stick-en to my words!

Tried and true! Your skull will thank you.!!!!!

Ron in Oregon
 
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