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Broken Tap

jswareiv

Well Known Member
I was trying to tap the roll bar on the very bottom hole by the skin. Apparently I missed it when I tapped all the other ones and the darn thing broke off in there. Since I have the skin, then the back window before I get to the roll bar, I can't get any kind of a tool on it to grab it, so it will need to be drilled out or something. It is hard to keep a drill bit on the center of it and it wants to wander. Any suggestions on the best way to get it out? Thanks.
 
I am not sure why you can't get a tool in there if you could get the tap in there. When this has happened to me, I used a modeler's needle-nose pliers. They are short and have very fine ends that will fit where the flutes of the broken tap are. Jam them in and then use the pliers as a handle to back the tap out. Drilling a tap isn't likely to be successful, so your other possibility is to punch the tap through, redrill the hole, and tap to a larger size. Personally, that would be a last resort for me.
 
I am not sure why you can't get a tool in there if you could get the tap in there. When this has happened to me, I used a modeler's needle-nose pliers. They are short and have very fine ends that will fit where the flutes of the broken tap are. Jam them in and then use the pliers as a handle to back the tap out. Drilling a tap isn't likely to be successful, so your other possibility is to punch the tap through, redrill the hole, and tap to a larger size. Personally, that would be a last resort for me.

Yes, there is no getting any kind of pliers on it. You have the dimpled skin, then the plexiglass, then the broken tap and it broke part of the way in the hole. There is nothing sticking out and it's a #6 hole, so I'm guessing the last resort is my only option.
 
Broken tap

The first thing to try is a "Tap Extractor"
http://www.amazon.com/Walton-10104-...qid=1446130228&sr=1-13&keywords=tap+extractor
You'll need to order the correct size and number of flutes.

If the extractor does not work, you'll need to drill it out. This is not an easy task because taps are extremely hard, too hard to be drilled out with any standard drill bit. Solid carbide (not cobolt) is your best bet.
http://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cuttin...=1446130859&sr=1-5&keywords=carbide+drill+bit

Good luck!
 
Taps can not be drilled... they are hard tool steel just like a drill bit.

I recommend trying the tap extractor.
 
The tap extractor should do the job, if you are careful in using it.

Try using a pin punch and hammer to GENTLY hit the broken tap a bit, just to loosen it up a bit------you broke it because it got frozen in the hole, and you want to get it unfrozen before you start using the tap remover.

When you are twisting the broken part out, use a bit of lube on the threads, and use a back-and-forth twisting motion just like when you are running the tap in.

DO NOT FORCE things---------the extractor is not as strong as the tap itself was, and due to the additional thickness of the plexi, your extractor fingers are not going to be supported as well as they could be.

Good luck, take it slow, and you should be just fine.
 
is there a particular type of tap that is stronger than others, so you can avoid the problem of broken taps? Are there certain types of taps that should be avoided?
 
Taps can not be drilled... they are hard tool steel just like a drill bit.

I recommend trying the tap extractor.

In a garage environment I partially agree.

In a machine shop environment with the right tools, equipment it is very possible. In fact I recently drilled out the center of a drill bit, and then proceeded to tap it in an effort to pull it out. (had 10" of 3/8" drill bit buried in steel).

Drill and tap worked great, but I also had no issue spending ~$700 on tools to do it. OSG drill was used, and I still have a spare on my desk here at work.

This was with some high dollar equipment though, a garage shop does not have.

Your best bet is extractor, if that fails sometimes you can use a punch and shatter the tap.
 
is there a particular type of tap that is stronger than others, so you can avoid the problem of broken taps? Are there certain types of taps that should be avoided?

As a rule, longer lead taper helps, but that is not the biggest issue.

Stay away from bottom taps unless you NEED to use one.

The issue is usually operator error, not bad tap.

Good lubrication of the correct type for the material being tapped, frequent reversal to break the chips, frequent removal and cleaning out of the accumulated chips----------these are the keys to using a tap. And, developing a "feel" for the drag as you cut threads.

If you are using a Harbor Fright tap, adjust your technique to accommodate the lesser quality.
 
I had a tap break off not long ago. I was able to get it unscrewed by using a small pick to rotate the tap.

Look very closely were the tap is broken. Look for an edge where the groove (that runs the length of the tap) in the tape exists. If you can get a pointed pick or punch on a bit of the groove, gently tap it around with a small hammer.

It worked for me but I was sweating it for a while.
 
Spiral Point Taps

It is best to use spiral point taps. These have angled cutting edges at the tip which direct the chips forward into the hole rather than into the flute which leads to clogging and binding. I get mine from MSC. Boelube is a good lubricant for tapping. Carbon steel taps from the hardware store are OK in the larger sizes but the small ones are too easy to bind up and break!

Stewart Willoughby,
6 firewall forward.
 
It is best to use spiral point taps. These have angled cutting edges at the tip which direct the chips forward into the hole rather than into the flute which leads to clogging and binding. I get mine from MSC. Boelube is a good lubricant for tapping. Carbon steel taps from the hardware store are OK in the larger sizes but the small ones are too easy to bind up and break.

+1 for this.

It is true that technic plays a big part when tapping, but using this type of tap for the small sizes provides some extra safety margin.
 
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