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  #101  
Old 08-02-2020, 11:17 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,290
Default Canopy, Part 2 - The Big Cut

Today was a warm day, perfect for canopy work.

This weekend was all about cutting the canopy down to size. The on-line experts suggested to use the Dremel Max Saw. This worked out very well. However, they recommended the SM500 plastic blade, I found this to be a really coarse cut. I chose to use the SM510 metal blade. This blade is just like the cut off wheel Van's supplies in the kit, but for the Max Saw. With this blade, if the cuts are made carefully, there is very little clean up sanding. I took everything down to 240 grit after the cut, before moving the canopy.

The cutting wasn't as bad as others have made it out to be.It is only a (very expensive) piece of plastic. It isn't like it is a Ferrari or anything. Like everything else on this build, I was stressing over it and it turned out to be not worthy. With all the others writing of their experience, that background helped a lot. (Thank you)

I taped the canopy to the frame for a fit check using wire as a Sika spacer. Seems I have a few more trim cuts to make, so I figure another whole day in the sun and then it will be ready to bond.

I am thinking of not using the trim piece that sits on the outside, down the middle spine. It seems with the Sika bonding method, there is no need for this strip. But
I think I will need to bond on a thrust washer for the handle thou.

__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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  #102  
Old 08-16-2020, 05:59 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,290
Default Canopy Part 3 Gluing

Got the canopy glued to the frame today. Used the sikaflex method as outlined by VAF’s Wirejock in an earlier post.

Like everything else the fear was worse than the event. Yes it was a mess, I think I got some of the black stuff in my hair because I have a grey spot that disappeared after I was done gluing.

I used tbe 3m fine line painters tape. This worked out well. I tried to add a layer of electrical tape on top like Wirejock recommended, but this wouldn’t stick. After prime I pulled off the 3m tape and then Re-taped with electrical tape to make it easier to make a fillet. This didnt work. It would have been better to just pull the 3m tape after prime and leave the primer’s edge untapped.

I set the frame upright, added a bead of sikaflex to the frame’s Spine, front and rear bows with the spacers, then dropped the canopy on top. After it was position and clamped, I added the side plywood to shape the sides and then added a bead between the side bows and canopy. I did not use the side canopy supports.

The canopy is clamped to the table so it wouldnt fall off The bench if bumped. Now I get to wait 48 hours in bliss thinking I did an excellent job. I am sure reality will set in after a few days when I unclamp and get a good look at the bonds.
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__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 08-16-2020 at 06:03 PM.
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  #103  
Old 08-18-2020, 09:29 AM
SFSA1's Avatar
SFSA1 SFSA1 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida
Posts: 75
Default

Congratulations! You are are never too old to have a happy childhood!

Best of Luck!
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Kim
561-396-9211
kim@sfsportaviation.com
www.sfsportaviation.com
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  #104  
Old 09-27-2020, 07:15 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,290
Wink Canopy Success

I finished up gluing the canopy to the frame and it came out well, I am very happy with the Sikaflex method and thinks it is the only way to go.

The canopy and canopy rails have been installed, along with the rear anchor blocks, and Supertracks.

I used the anchor block drill guide from RVPlasticParts.com and the angles were spot on. I had to shim one side in the tool to get the hole in the correct left and right location; this was mainly due to the fact that I had to move the anchor blocks outboard slightly to make sure there was the proper edge distance for the screw hole in the longeron.

I did a preliminary trim of the windscreen and marked the forward edge of the windscreen on the top forward fuselage skin. This will allow be to mask off and paint the portion of the skin inside the windscreen dark grey before final riveting.

I plan to finish the windscreen final trimming and canopy's fiberglass work once I am done with the instruments, electrical and engine forward installation. I want to build up my fiberglass skills on the tail feathers and cowling before tackling the canopy. (pun intended)

I am now starting on the final forward fuselage stuff working from the floor up, and firewall forward. I hope to be done Tuesday. ;-)

__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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  #105  
Old 09-28-2020, 06:25 PM
motodave motodave is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 57
Default I'm right behind you

John,
I'm finishing the bending of the canopy frame to the fuselage (my latest pic is on the VAF front page now). I have to get the gap between the roll bar and the canopy frame a bit closer and my fuselage sides are flush versus 1/16" inset but think that's ok... Question what is your canopy bonded to along the horizontal line were the skirt mounts? Thanks for any comments.
__________________
Dave
RV7 Slider N732DH reserved
Empennage 100% Complete
Slow build Fuselage 95% done
Wiring .2% done
Then QB Wings
Littleton, CO
Photo log: https://www.flickr.com/gp/daves_photo_log/79v20C
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  #106  
Old 09-28-2020, 06:33 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,290
Default Oh the great debate

Quote:
Originally Posted by motodave View Post
John,
I'm finishing the bending of the canopy frame to the fuselage (my latest pic is on the VAF front page now). I have to get the gap between the roll bar and the canopy frame a bit closer and my fuselage sides are flush versus 1/16" inset but think that's ok... Question what is your canopy bonded to along the horizontal line were the skirt mounts? Thanks for any comments.
Oh the great debate.
Some have used the traditional metal piece on the inside that sandwiches the canopy. I did not do this. Mainly because this area needs 1/8" gap for the Sikaflex to, well, flex. This would have pushed the canopy out too far on the sides and caused a poor fit for the side skirts.
Instead, I cut the canopy up about a 1/4" above the side rail, and then just used a extra wide bead of Sikaflex. before bonding, I covered the side skirts with clear packaging tape and this formed a mold for the Sikaflex fillet in this gap area, and allowed me to clamp the canopy in position while the Sikaflex cured. Since I had this gap, I let the Sikaflex cure for the full 7 days before disturbing it. With this method, the canopy touches the front and rear hoops where the side rails are welded. This is the only place the Sikaflex does not have the recommended 1/8" gap.

By the way, your frame fit looks awesome; I am glad you didn't throw down this challenge before I bonded my canopy on; if you had, I would still be tweaking my frame.
__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 09-28-2020 at 06:36 PM.
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  #107  
Old 12-21-2020, 10:21 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,290
Default Wiring, or making rats' nests

So I started finishing the wiring. My goal is to get all the wires in the fuselage before installing the engine and instruments. This will keep me from having to bend over and under the panel to install the wires and fuel lines on the fuselage floor. The wiring from the spar back was all done a month ago, but the wiring on the floor, in front of the spar, took some doing. This involved planning out all the wiring runs and finding enough holes in the spar to bring the wires through. It also meant I had to install the transponder and comm antennas to get those cables routed. I had to use a cat5e computer cable to get all the stick grip signals to the instrument panel; running individual wires for all the functions on the grips would have never fit through the existing spar holes. The cat5e cable used 4 pairs of 28 AWG wires in a very tight bundle, giving me 8 functions spread between the two stick grips. (I think my wife doesn't need an intercom button, at least that is what I will tell her, sorry dear, no intercom button for you. For you none pilots, the intercom doesn't need a button, simply speaking makes the intercom transmit one's voice to all others, but the joke is I won't tell her that)

I also put in the parking brake and made a bracket for the parking brake cable and the micro switch to tell me the parking brake is on.

Next up is the fuel system final install on the fuse floor. This has already been installed, but now it is time for final install.

In my spare time, I have been creating the panel wiring schematic. It seems I need 6 each RS232 outputs but only have 5 available. The G3X experts from Garmin helped me out and said if I run an independent GPS antenna for the G5, then I don't need a 6th RS232 output. I think that is what I will do; this will make the G5 a true system backup, able to get me to VFR weather if everything else goes COVID on me.




Edit: OK trick question: which wire did I forget? It is obvious and was expected since the wire looms are so nice.
__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 12-23-2020 at 08:38 AM. Reason: add picture
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  #108  
Old 01-17-2021, 11:27 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,290
Default Firewall and Engine Prep

Great progress these past few months. It seems as one gets closer to being done, many more decision need to be made by oneself. The plans become "a guide" and not instructions carved in stone.

For the engine, it seems there are two oil configuration choices for fixed pitch prop. The difference for a fixed pitch is the oil that normal goes to the prop needs to go somewhere and not build up pressure in the forward part of the crank. There seems to be two ways to do this when using fixed pitch. First is to use the normal oil return to the governor by letting the oil return through the governor cover that has a milled slot. This is shown in the picture of my cover plate. The second way is to open up the front crank plug, punch a hole in the rear crank plug, and then reinstall the front crank plug. Then one could remove the governor line from the front to the back and plug the fitting holes in the case. Since I had the governor line in place and the front crankshaft plug already factory installed, I just verified the rear governor cover had the milled slot and than put everything back together as shipped from factory. This way a future conversion to a constant speed prop will be easy. I also installed the alternator on the vac pump pad and checked the torque on the fittings that were factory installed. I still need to put the oil and fuel fittings onto the accessory case.

For the firewall, most of the electrical stuff that attaches to the firewall is installed. I still have to assembly the wires with lugs and stuff. Here is how I did the current shunt and the ANL fuses. I have everything with 12V power on fusible links or ANL fuses before passing thru the firewall. I am using a single shunt set up to read battery charge and discharge current. This will tell me if the alternator is putting out sufficient current to charge the battery or if my load is too great and discharging the battery. Please note the copper bus bars are not straight. This was done to allow some expansion and contraction so as not to pull or push on the contactor terminals. Moving forward (Pun Intended)
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__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 01-19-2021 at 12:01 AM.
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  #109  
Old 02-13-2021, 08:23 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,290
Default Center Stack Wiring

Just a quick update.
Center radio stack wiring nearly done. About 100 terminations so far. Only another 150 or so to go.

If you look closely at the picture, lots of things going on. For example, supports modified to allow screens to be high on panel. Connectors are mounted on brackets in approximate locations to allow nice harness routing. Harness pass thru holes in sub panel. Fuse block installed. Wires labeled with printed heatshrink. Splices and terminations are inside backshells for greater reliability and better EMI (dont try this at home, it can go wrong if not carefully done)
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__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 02-13-2021 at 08:34 PM.
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  #110  
Old 02-13-2021, 11:01 PM
Draker's Avatar
Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 457
Default

Great progress. The wiring is so different than everything else on the plane. Jut relaxing. Shield drain, cut, strip, crimp, heat shrink, then do it again hundreds of times!
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Ryan Drake
Livermore, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 12/31/2020
RV-7A (N12VD): Empennage and wing kits complete minus fiberglass. Fuselage, wiring, and canopy complete. IO-360-M1B mounted. Working on cowl and baffles.
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