RV-8 Wiring Planning

Getting to the point where we need to plan the electrics in the fuselage.

The 7 we already have was a little different - the plans related to the kit we had - as opposed to having a Mark 4 RV8 kit with Mark 1 instructions.........

We have decided on the basic fit:

10" Skyview inc Dynon TXP and 2 axis Autopilot.
Garmin 695 (we have no XM in Europe)
SL30 - to provide ILS to the Skyview
Intercom
Standby instruments as required by UK.

I am planning on taking the electrics down the right hand side, the pneumatics and flap electrics down the left.

Does anyone have diagrams, photos or links to help me in planning as I am nearly ready to get the turtle deck on and don't want to end up on my belly fitting things later.

ADAHRS is going on 2 ali angles just behind the rear baggage, probably locate the remote TXP on the same rails if I can.

Engine switches to right of panel, most switches will be switch breakers, any other cb's on a drop down front cover below the right console switches as per photos off the forum.

I think we are sorted, but just need a little inspiration and a gross error check from you guys

Mike

I like the way your are thinking. I am just completing similar panel installation in my RV-8. I'm using 10" Skyview with Dynon D10 EFIS for backup. I have Garmin GTN 650 is in lower left with intercom and com 2 on lower right. Wire routing is as you suggested. No problems so far. Happy to E-mail pictures if you are interested. Good luck.

Cheers

RV-8 Panel

Link to Casey RV-8 panel photo:




Hope that works.

dcasey1 said:

Link to Casey RV-8 panel photo:

Click to expand...

There, fixed it for you.

--
Joe

Thanks Joe for helping me display my RV-8 panel.....

Thanks Guys.....

And Don

mike newall said:

snipped

I am planning on taking the electrics down the right hand side, the pneumatics and flap electrics down the left.

Does anyone have diagrams, photos or links to help me in planning as I am nearly ready to get the turtle deck on and don't want to end up on my belly fitting things later.

snipped

Click to expand...

Mike,
I would strongly suggest that you run any big power wires [rear battery] down the left side, under the floor. You want to keep any high current wires away from antenna leads and stuff like autopilot servo wiring, etc.
I've got photos [rear battery] of how I did the wiring behind the seats. If you are interested, contact me via email or PM.
Charlie
PS Have you installed a stiffener between the F-808 & F-809 on the belly skin? See

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=36763&highlight=Tailcone+oil+canning

dcasey1 said:

Link to Casey RV-8 panel photo:

Hope that works.

Click to expand...

I'm always interested to know how builders have contended with the interference of a long radio tray (SL40 or 430/650), and the forward cross brace on the gear towers, whenever I see those radios mounted so low in the panel??

Thanks Chas,

Not planning a rear battery.

We will have a 180hp motor with probably an MT prop which will keep things lighter up front.

I would rather have the option of ballast in the rear than have all that wiring associated with a rear battery - nothing but problems for the future IMHO (Citabria owner).

Take you point though of separating larger current draw items.

I think most of the stuff that will go back will be ADAHRS, Autopilot, trim and lighting.

Mike

Again, I like the way you are thinking. I too went with a single odyssey battery forward of the firewall on the right sight. Power to the main and avionics buses is through the firewall, under the baggage compartment, and then down the right gear tower to the busses and circuit breaker panel. I went with the MT three blade counterweighted prop with MT accumulator. LyCon IO 320 M1S (Superior cold induction sump) put out 230 HP on the dyno test stand (10:1 compression ratio). Not flying yet but getting real close. Just final wiring to go.

David Casey
RV-8 (nearing completion)
RV-3 (flying)

Mike:

Seriously consider putting the battery in the back. The wiring run isn't that bad. You'll appreciate the weight in the back and not having to add ballast. I've got 180 lyc with carburetor and Hartzell CS prop. I'm 165 lbs soaking wet. Really glad I put the battery in back. -8s are nose heavy by nature. Just a suggestion, but think about it.

Chris

Nice looking panel, who designed it.

What a difference a weekend makes........

Much discussion about weight and balance and prop selection.

I spent Friday dressing and filling a dent on the leading edge of the MT with epoxy after a stone picked up last week - 3 weeks after return from a $3000 overhaul and previous repair

So, yesterday, I fabricated the rear battery tray and put angle in to snuggly fit the Odyssey we are using.

Also have rethought the prop and I think it will probably be the Hartzell now.

We operate off grass and tarmac and sometimes the surface isn't particularly good. Dressing a metal prop takes 10 minutes including drying time - the MT took 2 days with epoxy setting time and terror as you dress the nickel leading edge sheath - they are $1100 per repair when they crack.