My 7 tipup was perfect, then I attached the glass and it kicked out 3/16??

I have labored for nearly a year on my RV7 tipup. All was well. The glass was fine, the frame was fine. I had the side skins on multiple times with clecos. I had pulled the glass down a couple of times but, never with all the screws.

I finished the riveting of everything including the reinforcement kit. Then, some glass adjustments were required because the frame became a bit proud. But, all still seemed well.

But today, when I went all around the glass with all the screws and nuts for the first time, one side pooched out of line to the outside by about 3/16. All but about 10 inches in the center the rail area is good. I nearly lost control of my bodily functions when I put the canopy back on the fuse.

I would rather not just bend the side skirt back in, it would look pathetic. I suspect that the top edge of the side rails must have an angle I never fully tested? Can I just remove the glass and bend only 8" of the top of the side rail? Maybe this would cause the bottom of the side rail to come in the
required 3/16.

Because this frame is all riveted together, I don't think I have any (many?) options. I would appreciate any thoughts on this problem. I was all ready to move on to my glass fairing and now, its back to tinkering with the frame and glass.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.......
Dave Smith

canopy problems

If I can picture what you are describing correctly, I would take it apart and bend the side rail(s). It seemed to me that every time I reached a new milestone in the canopy building process, something previously aligned became unaligned. There have been many threads over the years discussing this mystery with few explanations other than it seems to just happen sometimes. It may be that when you riveted the reinforcement parts it changed something?

Before doing anything, did you have the canopy closed and locked when you noticed the overlap or was it just laying there without securing the canopy lock mechanism?

Dave a picture would be helpful. I think everyone has some changes to the canopy frame after final riveting. You'll be able to correct this.

A tricky beast

Dave,

If you do decide to remove your glass and bend the canopy frame here is a tip.

Use a pipe clamp and wooden blocks to carefully bend the canopy frame to your will. This way you can very controllably bend the frame where you want.

I had the slight opposite effect once my glass was installed. My frame moved about .02" inward but I will live with it.

Best of luck,

Paul

Here's what I did....and how it turned out...

First, thank you all for your feedback.
Attaching to the glass seemed to make the bottoms of the rails spread out.
To correct the excess spread on both sides.....

I removed the glass and I removed a couple of shims in one spot that now, were not needed. They were not the primarty problem.

I left the skins on. I measured the overage on each side and the overall measurements at every third glass attaching screw.

After goofing around trying to figure out how to get it back in my vise....which cannot happen now because the entire frame is assembled.......I laid the frame on a large table. I fastened two hardwood blocks about 12" apart matching the radius of the rails.

I taped the finished skins I was about to whoop on. I then commenced moderate whoop *** on the fat spots using my temporary blocks on the bench.

Two things happened. First, the rails did cooperate and came in as necessary. Second, I was hitting the rails a little lower that I should have. This reulted in the bottom of the skin bending inward.

Together, these two changes left the rails sitting a bit inside instead of outside. I decided that having them a little inside is far superior. I can always lay a little glass to get a better finish. But, when the rails are fat on the fuselage, it looks bad and limits your options.

It is acceptable. Average. C+ maybe. But, it is good enough. Thanks agains for your feedback.

Dave