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Throttle quadrant/cable mounting issues

WingnutWick

Well Known Member
Hello all,
Replacing the push-pull vernier cables on the 6A with a quadrant (per the lady's request) and I am running into a little issue with the clevis arms "bottoming out" on the control arms. Because of this the angle at which I can achieve full throw both directions without running out of clevis groove throw would require the cables to be mounting "arching upward" at a significant degree which is going to interfere with mounting. Wondering if anyone has run into this before and if there is some solution other than A: cutting notches out of the throttle and picture control arm to allow the clevis to travel further or B: rotating the entire quadrant until the cables travel more in line with the quadrant mount.

In regards to the bracket to mount this whole thing, I'm basically still figuring that out but if anyone has done this before on the 6 and has any tips/plans to mount it I'm all ears.

Thanks all.

Cheers!
 

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My solution

I also ran into the same problem. Found that removing half of the clevis and mounting with a castellated nut and bolt provides the clearance you need.
 

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I just recently did a similar conversion moving the throttle body from the floor (above the spar) to under the panel in my -7. That change in geometry required me to file on the inside of the clevis. In the case of the throttle I filed a notch in the lever arm to allow some extra travel. Note: the change in angle will give a little less throw.

I would have preferred to purchase new lever arms and drill new holes were I needed them, but could not get a hold of DJM.

I also found it pretty easy to make new side pieces for the DJM throttle quadrant for a cleaner installation. I have the dxf files if anyone needs them.

Here is a picture of the install
 
I would just notch the arm. Almost the entire load carried by that arm is created by the friction lock, and it's not a whole lot considering that a 3/4" wide piece of aluminum in the critical direction. Notching it will make it slightly more susceptible to twisting failure, but it's captured in the top channel and not allowed to twist anyway, so I don't think its a big deal. Just make sure you radius all the edges.

The lever arms themselves are just flat bar stock ?powder coated/painted? black. It would also be easy to order a piece online and drill the hole slightly more forward. I kept the original pieces, but had to redrill the throttle holes on my DJM quadrants because I needed just a bit more cable throw out of them. I moved it up about a 1/2" and forward about 1/4", this let everything clear nicely and gave me almost all the throw I was looking for.
 
Thanks all,

It seems odd to me that the way the throttle is with the mounting holes/bracket would have such a large angel requirement on the cables without the modifications mentioned. Will go with the notch idea.

Freebird, that's a nice mount job you have there. What did you use to cut the metal? Any photos of the mount job below the dash by chance? I'll take those dxf files though. Also I finally was able to get ahold of DJM through their Facebook page.

Thanks
 
I used sendcutsend.com to laser cut the metal. They are pretty reasonable on price and give instant quoting. oshcut.com is also another good resource.

The dxf's are in the link below. Note the only difference between the left and right is the hex for the pivot bolt.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3c8xqhz8vv7su5x/AABlczDTo4H7FFKyir5gUJoca?dl=0

This was setup to hook into the sub-panel behind the main panel. Not sure if it is the same distance on the -7. Luckily Van's gives good CAD files on the -7.

I had an extra set of sides cut that I will probably never use. I can send them is someone wants them.
 
Thanks Freebird, I might be interested in those extra side panels. My quadrant is throttle and mixture only but I'm guessing the sides are identical.
 
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