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  #1  
Old 10-02-2022, 09:56 AM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,711
Default Monkworkz installation

Having read more than my fair share of alternator failures in particular PPower such as the one installed in my RV-10, I decided to invest in a back up solution.
https://monkworkz.com/?utm_source=ki...ampaign=mz-30l
Other than reading and hearing of alternator failures, I have no reason to suspect imminent failure of any part of my electrical system. Nevertheless, I wanted to be pro active and prevent being stuck at an airport away from home such as a recent report of a hapless fellow pilot who was bogged down in Redding due to an alternator failure.

Installation: Straight forward, or so I thought....
You need a vacuum pump adapter for any engine driven alternator, be that Monkworkz or other choices.
When I ordered my engine, I dropped the vacuum drive adapter and this is where my installation progress stopped. Vacuum drive adapters are available on ebay along with a mix and (mix ups) of gears that go along with it. The adapter for a 540 and a 360 appear to be identical, albeit with different part numbers. The adapter and gear for the 540 are a touch longer than those for the 360. Ebay sellers will assure that either will fit in both engines. Well, not for me.
The adapter I chose is sold by B&C, they have one for a 360 and one for a 540.
The drive gear was out of stock everywhere and finding it involved multiple phone calls and waiting days for call backs. A salvage yard in Kansas finally came through with an "as removed" drive gear in excellent condition.
You also need longer studs to install a vacuum adapter, those are available for $25 a piece. There is a whole story about installing accessory studs, finding torque values, which side goes into the case, etc.

Up and running:
With all the parts installed I finally got a chance to test the new source of electrons. At this time, the unit is configured to be used as an alternate back up
generator by means of a switch, normally off and to be turned on in case of main alternator failure. Simple enough, the mini generator provides plenty of power to keep my panel lit up and battery recharged. In normal cruise I see about 26 amps drawn, almost at the limit of the Monkworkz's 30 amp maximum output. Turning the "old " strobe lights off reduces the draw to 19 amps. So far so good and only time will tell which of the two units will prove its longevity.
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__________________
Ernst Freitag
RV-8 finished (sold)
RV-10 IO-540 8.5:1
Running on 91 Octane E10 mogas since 2011
The older I get, the better I used to be.

Last edited by N427EF : 10-02-2022 at 05:11 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-02-2022, 10:14 AM
rv8ch's Avatar
rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N427EF View Post
... In normal cruise I see about 26 amps drawn, almost at the limit of the Monkworkz's 30 amp maximum output. Turning the "old " strobe lights off reduces the draw to 19 amps. So far so good and only time will tell which of the two units will prove its longevity.
Hi Ernst, thanks for the writeup - good to know about the need for the vacuum adapter - I would not have thought of that requirement.

You wrote that you use 19 amps in cruise w/o the strobes - just curious why so much? Do you have EFII or electric fuel pumps? Just curious.

I'm looking at this unit to replace my PP if it fails - it looks like it will save a lot of weight since it's so small, no brackets, pulleys, belts... My cruise load is about 14 with everything on including Andair backup fuel pump, and about 9 amps when running just on the engine-driven mechanical fuel pump.
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  #3  
Old 10-02-2022, 10:14 AM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 4,029
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I suggest for installing as a backup generator you leave the control switch always on. You will know if your primary alternator fails by the Monkworkz generator indication on your EFIS or whatever you are using.

Test the install from time to time by turning off the primary alternator.

Carl
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  #4  
Old 10-02-2022, 10:43 AM
Toobuilder's Avatar
Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Location: Mojave
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Agree with Carl. Leave it on and in "standby". One of the coolest features of the MZ30 is that it requires no pilot action to engage. Set it up correctly and it just sits there, waiting to spring into action.

...like a superhero.

Also wondering about the need for $25 studs. Just go to McMaster Carr or the local hardware store?
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WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.

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1940 Taylorcraft BL-65
1984 L39C - SOLD
RV-8 - SDS CPI - SOLD

Last edited by Toobuilder : 10-02-2022 at 10:46 AM.
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  #5  
Old 10-02-2022, 12:37 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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How much does it cost? The website doesn’t have any pricing info.
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  #6  
Old 10-02-2022, 01:12 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
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Quote:
How much does it cost?
$995 currently plus delivery.
Quote:
You wrote that you use 19 amps in cruise w/o the strobes
It is a 12 year old airplane, 2 Dynons, Garmin 696, radios, tx, autopilot, nav lights etc. I never thought my consumption of 25 to 30 amps was overly generous with 12 year old equipment. It is clear to me that, Nav, strobe and landing lights as well as 5 amps for the electric boost pump along with flap motor are the big consumers of electrons.
Set up is one mag and LSE ignition along with airflow performance fuel injection. Two batteries behind the baggage compartment.

As to setting up for stand by or on/off, I have not been able to decide and looking for some input.
My bus voltage sits around 14.3 and 14.4 volts. The Monkworkz's stand by (always on) mode is set for 14.2, seems a bit close to keep the back up generator on stand by as it might kick in and out unnecessarily when it is not needed. Clearly, I don't quite understand it.
I would prefer a hands off solution but not at the expense of lower bus voltage.

I found it difficult to pay $100 for a set of genuine Lycoming studs but could not get myself to trust something else, especially in light of the fact that my intent was to shore up a weak link (PPower alternator). I learned a lot about Lycoming studs, the threads are different on either side even though they are
1/4 x20 threads. One side causes a slight bit of interference when installing them into the accessory case. That is the flat side, the other side is rounded and will easily accept a nut, fyi.

The whole adapter set up amounted to a total of over $800, gear drive $450 used, housing $250 new, plus studs and a Lycoming washer to fit under the drive gear.
A used housing could have been had for less than $100 from ebay, I just could not positively verify that I was going to get the right part, same is true for the gear and only one was available on ebay that looked serviceable.
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Ernst Freitag
RV-8 finished (sold)
RV-10 IO-540 8.5:1
Running on 91 Octane E10 mogas since 2011
The older I get, the better I used to be.
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2022, 02:08 PM
Toobuilder's Avatar
Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Location: Mojave
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I bumped my primary bus voltage up a bit to give me a bit of headroom above the MZ30 kick in point. If your current 14.4 v is healthy, then you should not see many "saves" from the MZ30. And if it does jump on line, no big deal - just recycle the switch. I get this every once in a while after landing, but in cruise its Not an issue.
__________________
WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.

Michael Robinson
______________
Harmon Rocket II -SDS EFI
1940 Taylorcraft BL-65
1984 L39C - SOLD
RV-8 - SDS CPI - SOLD
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2022, 08:20 PM
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Funguy Funguy is offline
 
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Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 147
Default Vacuum Pump adapter???

Hi Ernst,

Thanks for the heads up on the vacuum pump adapter. I was shortly going to start on this installation and happen to be missing that adapter on my engine... This particular project just doubled in cost.

Cheers, Sean
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2022, 09:32 PM
Chkaharyer99 Chkaharyer99 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pilot Hill, CA
Posts: 886
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+1.

You need a vacuum pump adapter for any engine driven alternator, be that Monkworkz or other choices.

Thanks for your post Ernest. The vacuum pump adapter will add considerably to the cost of adding the Monkworkz.

I did not know. I may first spend my dollars on the removal of my current Hartzell/Plane Power Alternator and add the B&C belt driven Alternator.


Charlie


Quote:
Originally Posted by Funguy View Post
Hi Ernst,

Thanks for the heads up on the vacuum pump adapter. I was shortly going to start on this installation and happen to be missing that adapter on my engine... This particular project just doubled in cost.

Cheers, Sean
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  #10  
Old 10-02-2022, 10:04 PM
clam clam is offline
 
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Location: Lakeland, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funguy View Post

... and happen to be missing that adapter on my engine... This particular project just doubled in cost.

Cheers, Sean
Or ... go on a field trip around your local airport(s) and look for someone getting a panel upgrade. Most, if not all, panel upgrades are ditching the vacuum system and thus have no need for the drive gear and adapter pad. I recently did this and paid the gentleman $20 for this "junk".

An additional note on the Monkworkz generator that may come into play depending on each specific installation, is that there is a relatively large parasitic draw from the regulator (LED blink codes and I don't know what else exactly). So consider where the MZ30 taps into your system and be sure that the master switch removes power from the regulator (especially the EFII Bus Manager installations). The generator control switch does not perform this function.

I would refer folks to Monkworkz for additional details on this. He was very helpful in explaining this nuance.
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