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Mods - worth repeating?

Webb

Well Known Member
Sponsor
What mods have you done that are worth repeating or forgetting if you were doing a second build (and why)?
 
Here are some thought assuming you are building for an IFR cross country mission. If not, then pick out what you want.
- The one big mistake I made on my first build (8A) was to use a FP prop. At 300 hours I replaced it with the nice Hartzell, two blade CS prop. It totally transformed the plane.
- Yes, do exactly as Dan Horton lays out on firewall insulation. For your RV-8 don’t forget to replace the aluminum exit ramp with a piece of 0.015” SS.
- Opt for the milled airfoil aluminum gear legs.
- Assuming you are getting the IO-360-M1B, specify the AirFlow Performance FM-150C.
- I now use the B&C 60 amp alternator, and am currently flying with the Monkworkz 30 amp generator on the vacuum pad. Note - the Monkworkz is installed in the backup mode. The function is to replace the primary alternator if it fails - as in support getting home. This is vastly different than common thought on having the backup alternator be your savior if you have any electrical fault.
- Dual battery setup (to mitigate all the other electrical system failure risks). For the RV-8, one PC-625 mounted in the forward baggage well and one mounted in the standard aft location provides for a nice W&B, assuming using a 180hp IO-360 and the two blade Hartzell BA prop.
- I used the PCU-5000EX governor on all four builds.
- On the cowl the side pins go in from the cabin, not the front of the cowl. I like the look.
- On the cowl top pins I use 1/8” SS pins but taper the last 10” or so down so that they make the curve. This helps eliminate the top cowl expanding out while flying because of the slack between the 1/8” hinge and the smaller, per plans pins.
- I would not use baffles again. I’d go back to using a plenum like I did on the RV-10. Note - this does add a lot of extra work and the gain is small.
- I fill in the end ribs on all control surfaces and wing tips. This is strictly cosmetic.
- On the new RV-10 project I’m moving away from the AEROLED NAV/Strobes and FlyLED landing/taxi lights to “The Works” from FlyLED.
- Dynon heated Pitot, pitot mast and static system kit. Easy peasy.
- The panel is something you need to carefully consider - in terms of maintenance and changes. It is easy to build so it can be removed and worked on the bench. Panel mods come along much more than most think. On my first build (8A) it is now on panel #6 (first flight 2001). The RV-10 (first flight 2012) first panel mod was at 18 months, and is now on panel #3. If you build your own panel you can incorporate this feature. If you buy it you will need to negotiate with the avionics shop. You never want to be on your back with your head under the panel.

Carl
 
RV-8:
I'd do again the gear tower mod.

On a next build:
Put the outer gear bolts from top to bottom.
Make an access panel on the front/left side of the fuselage to access the fuel filters that are just by the rudder pedals.
(these 2 last mods will be done sometime this coming year on my flying 8, most probably with some explicit words included...:p)
 
The RV-7 forum had a pretty recent "list your mods" thread. Model specific though.

I'm happy with the mods I ended up doing. A few of them probably took more time than they were worth, like the one-piece empennage fairing. One I would not do again is the one-piece panel (no removable ears). Due to this mod, my panel is no longer removable from the plane without some extensive rivet drilling.
 
Fiberfrax belly insulation covered with .020 Titanium, grade 2. This overlapped (underlapped? it was underneath...) the aluminum stock belly.

Dave
 
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Mods

I have all of the new bolts, nuts and locking tabs to do the gear bolt change. I've started the process twice but I just cannot figure out how to get the new bolts in (with the locking tab properly aligned) when I can't get my hand on it and I certainly can't see what I'm doing. My 8 has the standard gear opening and lots of wires, tubing, etc. running through there. This is really the last thing on my "want to do" list but I haven't figured it out yet.
 
For those who were too lazy to do the gear tower mod (like me), this tool solves 95% of the problem when it comes time to torquing the gear bolts.

The idea shamelessly stolen from a VAF post - and my RV-8A buddy welded it up for me. Add your choice of 3/8” drive extension. This simple tool has helped me not resort to my salty language locker (at least for the annual gear bolt torque check).

Carl

2-E4243-AA-771-E-4952-B7-B3-D2-C8-B3763-F5-A.jpg
 
Carl, do you remember the sizes used to build this up? Also, I see you paint your "special" tools red. I do the same.
 
Find the socket that works best. Find a 3/8” crow’s foot that is just a little bit smaller than the outside of the socket. Grind two flat spots on the socket to accept the crow’s foot, weld.

When done you may also need to grind a little off the outside of the crow’s foot for clearance around the gear leg weldment. Some crow’s foots are have outside dimensions wider than needed.

Carl
 
I’ll second the gear tower mod

I was stubborn (stupid) and didn’t want to do the gear tower mod at first as I didn’t like the idea of removing material in that area. I eventually broke down and did it. Do that one ASAP.

I did the ‘panel back access’ mod on mine panel. I’m not sure I’d do that one again, but since my RV-8 is still in progress, I really haven’t needed that access for maintenance or anything like that. I really haven’t needed access there as part of the build. Perhaps I’ll appreciate it later.
 
Yes, super tracks!
1/4 turn cowl fasteners around the firewall
Different tail steering springs (sadly Tail Lynx no longer available)
Andair fuel selector and fuel filter/gascolator
Throttle quadrant with mixture & prop as push-pull verniers
Injected engine
Autopilot
I wouldn't fit the internal rudder stop as it stresses the rudder structure & fin where it is not intended to be stressed.
Also I would not chop the sticks - makes the airplane nasty to fly.
 
Here are some thought assuming you are building for an IFR cross country mission. If not, then pick out what you want.
- The one big mistake I made on my first build (8A) was to use a FP prop. At 300 hours I replaced it with the nice Hartzell, two blade CS prop. It totally transformed the plane.
- Yes, do exactly as Dan Horton lays out on firewall insulation. For your RV-8 don’t forget to replace the aluminum exit ramp with a piece of 0.015” SS.
- Opt for the milled airfoil aluminum gear legs.
- Assuming you are getting the IO-360-M1B, specify the AirFlow Performance FM-150C.
- I now use the B&C 60 amp alternator, and am currently flying with the Monkworkz 30 amp generator on the vacuum pad. Note - the Monkworkz is installed in the backup mode. The function is to replace the primary alternator if it fails - as in support getting home. This is vastly different than common thought on having the backup alternator be your savior if you have any electrical fault.
- Dual battery setup (to mitigate all the other electrical system failure risks). For the RV-8, one PC-625 mounted in the forward baggage well and one mounted in the standard aft location provides for a nice W&B, assuming using a 180hp IO-360 and the two blade Hartzell BA prop.
- I used the PCU-5000EX governor on all four builds.
- On the cowl the side pins go in from the cabin, not the front of the cowl. I like the look.
- On the cowl top pins I use 1/8” SS pins but taper the last 10” or so down so that they make the curve. This helps eliminate the top cowl expanding out while flying because of the slack between the 1/8” hinge and the smaller, per plans pins.
- I would not use baffles again. I’d go back to using a plenum like I did on the RV-10. Note - this does add a lot of extra work and the gain is small.
- I fill in the end ribs on all control surfaces and wing tips. This is strictly cosmetic.
- On the new RV-10 project I’m moving away from the AEROLED NAV/Strobes and FlyLED landing/taxi lights to “The Works” from FlyLED.
- Dynon heated Pitot, pitot mast and static system kit. Easy peasy.
- The panel is something you need to carefully consider - in terms of maintenance and changes. It is easy to build so it can be removed and worked on the bench. Panel mods come along much more than most think. On my first build (8A) it is now on panel #6 (first flight 2001). The RV-10 (first flight 2012) first panel mod was at 18 months, and is now on panel #3. If you build your own panel you can incorporate this feature. If you buy it you will need to negotiate with the avionics shop. You never want to be on your back with your head under the panel.

Carl

Carl, do you have any details on this?
* For your RV-8 don’t forget to replace the aluminum exit ramp with a piece of 0.015” SS I assume you are referring to F-867A-1?
 
...
I did the ‘panel back access’ mod on mine panel. I’m not sure I’d do that one again, but since my RV-8 is still in progress, I really haven’t needed that access for maintenance or anything like that. I really haven’t needed access there as part of the build. Perhaps I’ll appreciate it later.
Same here - the instrument panel is so easy to remove, and you get full and easy access to everything from there. I can't see any need to go in through the baggage area.

Aluminum gear - I got the Grove, but today I'd get Ken's gear legs.

1/4 turn fasteners around the FW - hinge on the vertical sides, works well. I come in from the front - was easy to do, and I think it looks cool.

Andair pump and valve. I used a much bigger fuel filter than the Andair - it seemed too small.

FM-200 but today I'd use a FM-150.

Today I'd skip the normal alternator and go with the Monkworkz.

Earthx on the firewall - very light, makes the whole system much lighter since the fat cables stay up front.

Super happy with my io-360 and hartzell two blade metal prop, but others seem very happy with their MT 3-blade and others with the whirlwind. Lots of good props out there!

Flyleds are awesome.

I installed the bigger 380x150 tires - you might consider Ken's bigger tire kit if you do any offroading.

Don't forget the awesome delrin aileron stop mod! :D

I have the bell tailwheel fork - seems to be good, but I never tested the standard fork.

I installed 4 USB charging ports - 2 in the front, two in the back.
 
Carl, do you have any details on this?
* For your RV-8 don’t forget to replace the aluminum exit ramp with a piece of 0.015” SS I assume you are referring to F-867A-1?

Easy. I piece of 0.015” SS from McMaster and use the kit provided aluminum exit ramp as a template to make a new one. Use the same high temp silicon joint compound that you used on the firewall FiberFraz and SS clad edges on the ramp edges. Do not paint.

Carl
 
Cabin ventilation

All NACA inlets under wing. The drop in static P at that location has a proportional decrease in temperature. The difference in cabin inlet temps is about 10 degF over fuselage inlets. This is a big deal in hot AF Florida.
 
Easy. I piece of 0.015” SS from McMaster and use the kit provided aluminum exit ramp as a template to make a new one. Use the same high temp silicon joint compound that you used on the firewall FiberFraz and SS clad edges on the ramp edges. Do not paint.

Carl

And what is the objective for this mod?
 
And what is the objective for this mod?
Same as the reason to put FireFrax on the firewall, buy you a few more minutes to survive the fuel fed fire after you isolate the fuel supply. All those flames will follow the engine air exhaust path right to the ramp under your feet. At that point the aluminum ramp is a liability. Replace it with SS.

Carl
 
My experience

Supertracks canopy extension is soooo worth it. Would be considerably easier to install during the building process. :)

Replaced the old landing/taxi lights with Baja Squadron Pros (used the "spot" model for both), and had Vic Syracuse add a flasher when he was spelunking behind my panel for other purposes. :) A real bargain and the difference is like day and night, as it were.

It's more of an accessory, but the Ultimate Gust Lock from Anti-Splat is a winner. If you travel in your RV, it will end up outside when the wind is blowing, and the anti-splat gadget is by far the best thing I've found after years of tinkering and trying different options.

What mods have you done that are worth repeating or forgetting if you were doing a second build (and why)?
 
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