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Beringer wheel O-ring??

jfisher

Active Member
Trying to order spare o-rings for my -14A Beringer wheels. Can't figure out which ones to order on the Spruce website which says the following:

"Important note: The KDF series are for non-certified aircraft and older Beringer wheels in three parts. New Beringer wheels are 2 parts, and need only one O-ring of the J-JTR series. EASA Form 1 is available if required for J-JTR series only, at an additional charge of $10 per document."

The KDF rings are $17.50 ea. The J-JTR rings are $20 for pack of 10 ($2 ea).

My wheels are two parts. I've spent way too much time trying to figure this out.
Any help???

Thanks,
Jim
 
The Beringer manual lists kdf-01 for 5 inch wheels. I tried unsuccessfully to copy a section from the manual. Sorry.
 
I ordered directly from Beringer last Nov and they sent J-JTR-006N O rings and they were $3.48 each. They fit just fine. The shipping was a bit steep at $19.42 but I wanted to be sure I got the correct rings.
 
I ordered directly from Beringer last Nov and they sent J-JTR-006N O rings and they were $3.48 each. They fit just fine. The shipping was a bit steep at $19.42 but I wanted to be sure I got the correct rings.

Do you have 5 inch or 6 inch wheels? I have not removed a tire, yet, but assumed from the Beringer maintenance manual I would need the larger $17 o-ring. :confused:
 
I have the standard Beringer wheels for the 14A.
 

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O-Rings

I ordered the J-JTR-006N pack of 6 from ACS Part # 06-01994. Although I have not installed them took this part number off install documents. It is a little confusing.
 
I ordered the J-JTR-006N pack of 6 from ACS Part # 06-01994. Although I have not installed them took this part number off install documents. It is a little confusing.

Are these the large 118 mm o-rings? I have not replaced a tire, so please forgive my ignorance, but I understand from the Beringer manual that two 118 mm o-rings are required, and I believe those o-rings are available from ACS for $17 each. I would like to acquire the correct o-rings in advance and I am confused which to order. :confused:
 
I ordered the J-JTR-006N pack of 6 from ACS Part # 06-01994. Although I have not installed them took this part number off install documents. It is a little confusing.


I bought and have used these on my -14 main wheels with no issue. I dont know if anything is different for the nose wheel kits.


Oh and btw, you do NOT need that fancy wooden jig to replace your tubeless tires. I had good results just letting all the air out of the tire then breaking the seal with a bench vise.
 
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Tire Change

BerringerFiveInWheel.PNG

This is the correct O-ring for the five inch wheels for the 14A and the nose wheel for the 10.
 
Beringer wheels

The 006 is for the five inch wheels and the 007 is for the 6 inch mains for the 10. The wooden jig and polished aluminum conical is not needed as another person posted. Beringer wheels are a thing of beauty and the parts needed to change the tires are also nice but a little over-kill. Make sure you have a way to torque the five mm bolts that fit the 2 half's together. Yes probably also not needed but a spec is a spec. (87 ft. lbs) I did have a slight leak from the core of the stem that I did not count on. Must have picked up something when I let the air out. Core stem would not reseal and had to flush with a light oil both ways to clear the dirt that must have lodged on the seat on one of the wheels. I'd suggest having a spare stem on hand just in case. Beringer sells a internal pressure monitor and if you are mounting that the polished aluminum ring comes in handy to fit the monitor around the wheel. It slides on very easy with the ring and without it is difficult. (Tried without the ring and did not want to break it so used the polished ring)

For at the 14A I was able to jack up the front fairly easy under the nose with a 2 by 4 as a buffer.

Really nice wheel and brakes from Beringer, Thanks
 
One more issue

To break the bead on BOTH sides you will need a vise wide enough to clamp the tire plus 3/4 inch for a board to break the other side. (Opposite board) Even then it took a large rubber mallet after the bead was broken. One side comes out very easy the other needs a little persuasion.
 
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